Clutch?

So I went out riding with a friend today after spending all winter getting my bike up to par. I have my 82 XJ650 (at 70-something horsepower stock) and he drives a Buell Blast ( 1 cylinder, 500cc, at 34 horsepower ) At one point, we switched bikes and afterwards, he said it runs pretty smooth, but he thinks my clutch is going out. Now, being that this is my first bike (more importantly, the first bike I've ever ridden ), I really didn't have anything to compare it with. So we both gunned it off the line, and he beat the piss out of me. Like he was accelerating at twice my ability.

I did notice that when I'm in any gear, at about 4,000 RPM the bike seems to lose power, though not the engine as it's still revving strong, but I just get no acceleration out of it. I especially notice a lack of power going uphill.

That being said, are these kind of symptoms synonymous with a bad / slipping clutch and if so, what are my options? Is it pretty intensive to change a clutch and are they still readily available?

Thanks,
Gremlin484

 

Before tearing down the transmission case, first check your oil level with the bike on the center stand. Low oil or dirty oil will cause slippage since the clutch plates are "wet" clutch plates. Change the oil if in doubt. If that is good, try and adjusting you clutch cable "out" a little. On the transmission case near the clutch lever is where the cable attaches. There is a bracket with a screw on either side. Loosen the nut on the lever side just a little then turn the nut on the cable side so the clutch lever moves toward the rear of the bike. Try this doing only one full turn at a timeon the nut on the cable side, tightening everything back up and taking her for a test drive. If there is no noticable difference after doing this a couple of times, you will need new clutch plates or service.

 

The oil and filter were changed just about a week ago. I'm gonna take a look at that cable tomorrow and see if I can loosen it up a bit. It wouldn't surprise me if the P.O. messed this up. He did some pretty weird crap to that bike.

Just so I can start pricing them, anyone have any recommendations on where to get some clutch plates?

 

Adjust the Clutch before you do any tearing-down or money spending.

Simple to do.
Work stand.
Neutral.
Check the exposed section of Clutch Cable from the Adjustment Mount (above the Clutch Case - Under the Carbs - On the Right side) for proper tension.

Loosen the Locking Collar on the Clutch Cable Tension Knurl Manual Adjuster -- on the Clutch Lever Perch -- and, back-off the Threaded Knurl until the Cable Slacks and there is a very slight measure of "Free Play" on the Throw Out Arm down at the Case Connection.

Adjust the Cable Tension with the Knurl Adjustment, tightening the Cable ... until the ALL the Slack is removed ... the "Free Play" is just "Adjusted-out" and the Throw-Out Arm is adjusted to ... "ZERO LASH"

That ought to adjust any slipping out of a Clutch that was adjusted too tight.
If the Clutch continues to slip ... under LOAD ... after adjustment ... ORDER a COMPLETE KIT and renew the Entire Clutch: Friction discs, Driven discs, Springs and Hardware.

If you're a Brand New Bike-Guy ... YOU deserve to Start-out your life's motorcycling adventures on your own big, fat, brand-new Clutch.

 

You may have some slippage caused by friction modifiers in the oil. Check the oil label and if it has friction modifiers then change to an oil that doesn't.

 

Well that was a bummer...

So I took a closer look at my clutch linkage today, and noticed that at some point in time, the return spring had broken, but was still stuck in a spot on the housing that allowed it to, kinda work. At rest, I was able to push the lever back slightly so it was pretty clear that it wasn't returning home properly.

I took the clutch cable linkage apart and pulled the spring off. It looked like it had just enough left on it that I could bend the end of it and put it back in place to, at the very least, tell me if that was my problem infact. Now for the stupid part... I learned today that if you heat a spring with a propane torch, not only does it make it very brittle, but it also loses it's springiness.

Needless to say, I'm now out a clutch spring and cant ride my bike until I get a new one.

I'm also thinking that because of the clutch spring breaking thing, that it may have damaged my clutch over time.

Where is the best place to get a return spring? Rick, you mentioned "ORDER(ing) a COMPLETE KIT"... Are they actually sold in kits anywhere or did you just mean order them all separately? I'd like to prepare my wallet in case it does get to that point...

Oh, and in case you're wondering I spent the rest of this beautifully nice, 68 degree, sunny day removing all of the aircraft from my aluminum, then polishing it.

I cried the whole time...

( because of the aircraft remover of course )

 

Barnett ...

Complete. Everything you need.

 

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

So after breaking my spring a few days ago, the weather here has been getting nicer and nicer, which makes waiting harder and harder. I ordered the new part, but it's not supposed to be here for another week or two. Being an impatient one, I decided to "hillbilly band-aid" the problem. I stopped at my nearest hardware store, picked up a 3 inch extension spring and used a little bailing wire to rig it up.

After following Rick's clutch cable how-to, I got everything set up just right, and the difference is AMAZING!!! Now I can pop the front tire off the ground in first, bury the needle while still in 4th, and I got full power across the whole tach. It's incredible the difference in power from before.

Once my new spring comes in, I can take off the temporary one, and get to riding all the time!

I'll probably look at doing a new clutch when I paint the bike this winter. I'd rather take advantage of the nice weather while I can!

Thanks everyone for all your help!

 

You keep riding like that ... and you'll NEED a new Clutch ... for-cryin'-out-loud!

 

Heh... That was just the test. I can't say I'm gonna be riding like that normally.

And I almost forgot... someone in a previous had mentioned that they had replaced the springs and the friction plates, but not the steel plates.

Being on a budget, how important is it that the steel plates be changed? Obviously if they are damaged or discolored, I will change them. But if they look to be ok, can they safely be left alone?

 

That's it ...

If they aren't messed-up at all ... you DON'T need to replace them.

Just wrap some 800 Sandpaper around a 6" section of an old Yardstick and DRESS the edges of the Dogs on the Steel Driven Plates. The edges get flattened-out and don't want to move the tiny-bit side-ways like they need too.

With any sharp edges removed ... they have their "Fully-floating" capability restored and your not likely to have the NEW Friction Plates -- Grab-up-- on you.

Do a quick test on them by brushing-off those driving dogs with panty hose.
Any one the snags the nylons ... mark with a Magic Marker and you'll know which ones need the Dressing-up.

 

I'm having a similar problem (actually have for a whle, but I've nursed it along). I've adjusted the cable, and yet with the slightest bit of pull, the clutch slips. On some hard takeoffs (and I don't REALLY get on it, I'm pretty reserved) it'll slip on gear changes for about 2 seconds then it eventually hooks up. In the past, when I first got the bike, I did find that the proper oil selection helped but now the trusty ol' YamaLube 4 is slipping as well.

So based on your brief response above, Rick, I googled and found: http://www.barnettclutches.com/products ... tch_cc=750

They have listed: Friction Plates, Metal Plates, and Spring Kits. They don't have full "Clutch kits," or anything labeled "COMPLETE KIT." So assuming my metal plates are OK (I haven't looked yet), I'd be looking to get 8 friction plates (YPK-25K) and one spring kit (MT-42-5)? Is there an online source for these (with pricing) or do I need to find a local dealer (looks like there's one not too far away)?

 

Before spending lots of money on a new clutch kit, you should do your routine inspection first. I just had a clutch slip on me bad enough that I thought I was going to have to push it home. Up till 2am replacing the clutch. during the tear down, while I was measuring everything, I found the only problem I had was a worn set of springs that cost me a whole $12.44. Of course a Vernier Caliper is a motorcycle mans best friend.

 

If you are sure the problem is not one of -- adjustment.

If you "Know" the Clutches are worn and need to be replaced.
If you are in on the Early Detection of a going Clutch ... it slips.
If you let if get worse ... the Drivers get scorched ... and it can get ugly.

I'd just replace:
Friction Plates, Springs and Fasteners.
Drivers; if they've been burned.
Sometimes there's spots on a driver or two that are blued ... if they're not warped they may be reused.

Old School Guys have a difficult time breaking-down clutches in to the individual components.
Clutch time is clutch time.
We'd never pulled an engine and replaced a Clutch Disc.
We replaced the whole Clutch.
Clutch Disc, Pressure Plate and Throw-Out Bearing came in three boxes ... but, to a Hot-Rod Guy ... it was all one Clutch.

There's other ways of doing things outside of The Old School Method.
But, if you do something Old School ... you've done it right and most likely won't be needing to do it again, sometime soon.