Restoration Question

I recently acquired an XJ550 and am attempting to restore it. The transmission seems to shift fine in all gears but I cant get the rear tire to turn if its in gear. If I recall correctly I think it should be hard to roll but I should feel the compression of the engine. Does this mean the engine is seized? What steps should I take next?

 

take the spark plugs out and try it again

 

I've never tried it, but I thought with the plugs in, you should only be able to roll the tire in the highest gear.

just my .02 though

 

I tried rolling it without the spark plugs in all gears with the same results.

 

Hello.....Newman (with apologies to Jerry Seinfeld)
Sounds like you've got a problem. With the plugs out and the clutch in, get a rolling start down a slight incline in 5th or 6th gear. Dump the clutch and see if it breaks free. If it does, squirt a light oil down the spark plug holes and let it sit a bit, then try it again. If you get the engine turning over you can put the plugs in and try to fire it up. Once running, you can do a compression check to see if there is any permanent damage. Regardless, you're not gonna get the cylinders off until you break the pistons free, so you've got nothing to lose. Let us know how it goes.

 

Remove the left engine point cover and rotate the engine with a 19mm wrench with the tranny in neutral. This will let you know if the engine is seized or the tranny.

 

Silly question - but can it spin when it's in neutral?

If so, and you can't force it to turn while in gear even with the plugs out, then something in the transmission is busted....

Can you give some more details?

 

Capt.:

I gotta over-rule on that. I'm sorry. If, in fact, there IS -- "Piston" related seizure ... rolling the bike and trying to break them loose places the transmission gears at a very high risk of being damaged.
. . . . . . . . . . . . .

Work stand.
NEUTRAL ~~> Check!
Pull plugs.
Place 1.5 Ounces of "Marvel Mystery Oil" into all the Cylinders through the Spark Plug Hole.
Remove the Left Side Crankcase Cover.
Place the correct fitting wrench on the Square fitting and attempt to "Jack-over" the engine by hand.
If it DON'T Go ...
Get somebody to hold the bike from falling-over on you.
Put some steady pressure on the wrench and relax the pressure -- many times ... they might come loose ... be prepared for sudden movement.
No?
2nd Assistant.
2nd Assistant applies pressure to the wrench.
You cut-off 3 feet of broom handle and place the broom handle on the jugs and TAP on the other end with a hammer.
TAP ~~> Don't start breaking-off cooling fins.
No?
Double-Tap!

The Double-Tap is where you are already applying some very light vibration to the Block ... while turning torque on the wrench is supplimented
with additional sudden impact. (A hammer handle works great)

No?
Light candles and get drunk.

 

I didnt know how to turn the engine with a wrench so I'll try that. I dont want to cause any additional damage so if its the engine then I'd feel safer trying the wrench method to break it loose.

RickoMatic, what are you referring to when you says "jugs"? Sounds like you are referring to knocking on the upper part of the engine in hopes of creaking additional vibration when wrenching it loose? From what I see online, it looks like that Marvel Mystery Oil is a common item so I'll pick some of that up first.

Thanks

 

Rick is spot on, you should get a ruling quickly following his flowchart.
Jugs, my friend, refer to the cylinders, the heavily finned mid-section of the block.
Marvel has recovered a few engines for me, I highly recommend it!

 

Jugs = Engine Block Cylinder's

The Block.
If you can get the broom handle in and give it a few soft whacks ... right under the Exhaust Collar ... half-way.

Go get some Marvel Mystery Oil ... you definitely want some Marvel in there helping-out.

Before you do anything involving IMPACT on the WRENCH ... not on the Broom Handle ... wait until we are sure it's not TIMED wrong or the TIMING CHAIN isn't the problem.
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If it breaks loose and turns without heavy pressure ... that would be good. It it BUMPS and STOPS ... DON'T force it or add IMPACT ... we need to investigate other possible problems ... First!

Fill us in with all the details on this bike:
Use your "Signature" feature:
____________________

Year - Model - Total Miles - Stock / Modified - "Other info"
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Background info:

I have three parts bikes and am starting with the most complete looking one in hopes of building one working bike. All bikes have engines but the last one was stored outside without spark plugs and carberator so I'm not planning on that one being usable for more than parts. The other two look much more promising.

Model details added to signature.

 

Rick, I'll stand corrected in the best interest of Newman's tranny....although a 550's light enough that under normal circumstances the back wheel would just skid on the pavement. Anyway, your method is safer.
Hello.......Newman. Should you decide to part out that '81 Seca, PM me.

 

Thanks everyone.

I took off the crankcase cover and was able to turn it. It was hard to turn but at least it moved. I piked up the Marvel Mystery Oil today so I'll try what Rick recommended and be back with results.

Captainkirk,
When I'm done with this project I'll definately be parting out the other bikes. I'll keep you in mind when the times comes.

 

Hey newman, I have 3 seca 550's and a parts bike. I picked up the parts bike for next to nothing, but it had sat for 2 years. Water got into the cylinders and rusted the cylinder walls. No amount of leverage on the square nut under crank case coverwould shift it, and worse you could damage that nut which is pretty important. Its so tight in there that the slightest obstruction (like rust) locks up the cylinders. Removing the head and looking inside is worth it, except that with seized cylinders you will have a devil of a job getting the timing chain off (the cogs on the cams have to be positioned perfectly to undo the bolts in them, half a turn out and you are scuppered) Shove a long Q Tip with a little cleaner down the plug hole and see if any rust comes off on the Qtip. Might give you a clue. Best to go slowly on this one.

 

Captainkirk,
When I'm done with this project I'll definately be parting out the other bikes. I'll keep you in mind when the times comes.[/quote]

Thanks...I'll look forward to hearing from you.

 

So, the motor turned ok. It didnt dawn on me that the oil would come squirting out. Since the exaust is off it came out the front as well as upward so it made quite a mess.

I'm guessing something is wrong with the tranny.. ? I can shift but when its in gear the most I can get the front sprocket to turn is about 1/2"(1 tooth). I checked the next worse looking bike and I can turn it easily. The starter is off so I can see the gear in there moving too. I checked the motor and it turns easier than the other bike. I'm thinking I'll be changing my focus to that one unless someone has some other tests I can do on the first bike.

 

Newman, PM'd you.