Vacuum Syncing

They might be different lengths, not sure. My valve cover bolts also came out without any problems. Maybe I've just gotten lucky. The only two fasteners I've had problems with are the bottom screw on each of the rear blinkers.

 

My thinking is they are probably similar in composition. Their location may be subject to more heat though.

 

I was a bit confused from your question. Yes, the bolts are the same diameter and wrench size, I don't recall if the length is different though.

Also what kind of camera are you using? Your photos of hard to get to/see places are very good.

 

By composition, yes I meant diameter and size...not necessarily length. Also in regards to type of metal used. The general consensus seems to be that because these are soft steel, they are easier to seize and thus when you try to remove them it is easier to twist them instead of turn them...basically the top of the bolt is moving while the bottom stays bolted in resulting in a snapped bolt. If they are the same material as the valve cover bolts, and I had no trouble with snapping any of those, my chances may be ok with these. But I am still very cautious.

Those pics were taken with my iPhone 4S btw (which is also serving as my speedometer until I get a new aftermarket one. LOL)...I love that thing.

 

You have a nasty vacuum leak somewhere. My bike does this exact same thing and I couldn't figure out how to fix it for the life of me without spending big bucks on new stuff. I didn't find an exact fix, but I found a happy medium to get the bike to idle around 1100 with the choke slightly on. Sometimes it hangs a little, but then I just let the clutch out some and it drops. Other times it doesn't stay idling, it'll slowly drop, so I'll just blip the throttle. Like I said, happy medium without breaking the the bank.

 

I think that much has been figured out

There are only so many places a vacuum leak can occur, and I'm determined to fix it properly. A well running bike is a fun bike Thanks for the info though.

 

I realized after I posted it that there were 4 pages after that post, so I figured someone already answered it. :lol:

I'm just glad I'm not the only person to come by this issue. I'm going to keep checking this thread to see if you ever figure it out or I'll fill in if I figured it out on my bike. I've narrowed it down to either the carb-to-engine boots or there is a crack in the head (which doesn't seem likely, since I ride the piss out of this bike...and I figured by now it would have blown up if it was a crack).

 

At this point I am pretty certain it is the intake manifold boots. Check out the pics above. You can see that the o-rings are fried, and the boots (particularly #3) have some warping.

If you have a decent camera phone with flash, take a peak in on yours like I did and see how they look. (I say camera phone, because they are fairly slim and the flash is right by the lens).

Everything else that could cause it has been replaced or adjusted.

 

I have removed mine and made gaskets with RTV and it changed nothing at all. I didn't see any cracking or warping on mine, but then again, I didn't look at it under a microscope. I'm definitely not removing anything until next winter though. It works enough that I can ride it, so I'm not about to mess with things, only to have it go back to the way it used to be (hang at 4k RPM almost all the time).

But I agree, the boots seem to be the most likely culprit.

 

Update:

I tried unbolting #3's intake manifold boot and she wouldn't budge so I decided to not risk it. They are sealed up nice and tight with RTV.

Had the carbs off so I decided to re-bench sync and try again. I used Pollocks method of lining up with the holes at the top of the venturi to where only two were showing, and made sure they were all in the same position.

Bolted up the carbs, fired her up.....and.....

3K Rpms.

I backed up the idle stop screw a half turn and that brought her down to 1.5k.

And at 1.5k she stayed!!

Went for a 3 mile ride, and still have no revving problems. Although it is obvious that I need to do a vacuum sync and a/f adjustment. But at least I have a starting point once again!

I will update once I do the sync. Happy to be that much closer to riding on two wheels again!

 

Now that you have a reasonably stable point to work from.

Leave the intake boots alone. This can be problematic at best. The bolts used are of a soft grade material, and will snap off with little effort.

When you get the new boots. Soak the bolts for several days using kroil. If you are lucky. All the bolts will come out. This may well be the case in the dry south west. If any bolts snap off you can use a reverse drill bit, and heat to get them out.

Once you have the old boots off, and any broken bolts removed. Throw away those soft grade bolts, and replace with stainless steel bolts using antisieze compound on the threads

Have fun riding this season

Ghost

 

Yeah, I'm gonna put it off for as long as possible. The RTV seems to work well for now, and if I need to I can slap some more on. Not that I'm ignoring the real problem...just biding my time as much as I can