Possible Newbie

Hello Everyone,

Shopping for an early '80s UJM, always been a Honda man, but this bike intrigued me enough that I'm going to go look at it tomorrow and make an offer:
http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/mcy/3127046050.html
Needs a back tire now and a front "soonish" (read: "now too"). Owner says it's otherwise roadworthy.
In your esteemed opinions, is this a good deal? Sure looks like a sweet bike.

Ben

 

Been out of the market for awhile, but it seems to me that $1300 should buy a bike that is ready to ride, including rubber.

If everything else is good it's probably a 1000-1100 bike.

Hondas seem to get a premium that the other brands don't carry. If $1300 is a fair price for a Nighthawk in similar condition, the XJ is over priced.

The XJ is every bit as good a bike as the Honda.

 

Unless the owner has paperwork showing the rear brake shoes are not the original ones, the brake lines have been replaced, the valves properly adjusted within the past 5000 miles, and the mater cylinder and brake caliper have been rebuilt, I say that price is too high. The two tires alone will be over $200 once mounting and balancing is paid for.

 

There is another point to bring up to the seller and that is when was the last time the valves were checked? And don't just accept the sellers word for it ask for docs (PROOF). This is important as the valve clearances get tighter as the engine wears. No proof, chop $200 off the offer.

 

I would expect to do a thorough brake system overhaul. If it's seals/rebuild kits and lines, it's not an expensive undertaking, and I'm pretty sure the pads should still be good after only 9k. If the brake fluid isn't sludge, it should be easy work. Valve adjustment is standard maintenance that I would do as a matter of course, and I hope this bike hasn't been ridden long or hard enough to have valve damage from neglect. Just over 9k on the clock.

Fuel system issues don't really scare me. Anything out of the ordinary I should beware of on these bikes?

 

Brakes (front and rear) will be about $250, front lines look original, and with only 10k on the clock, they probably are.

Plus price of the tire, I'd not go more than $1,000.

Looks to be complete, non-original rear shocks, which isn't a bad thing.

Also looks to be garage kept, the clocks aren't faded.

10,000 miles, if valves were never done, is very close to being way too tight.

Nice example of the 650R though. If you pick her up, let us know and we'll tell you were to start.

Oh, and compression test on the motor before you buy.

 

Very nice looking bike, and it does appear to have been well cared for-which always gives the best chance for a good deal with minimal surprises. I would agree about the price-it is only a 650 and tires aren't cheap anymore. If he has papers showing proper maintenance, and everything else checks out I would offer $1050 and stop at $1100. Hard to tell but the seat looks like it might be a little worn.

I was a Honda guy too, but now that I have an XJ, I have been converted. Yamaha got his start building fine musical instruments (hence the tuning fork emblem) and this precision carried over to the bikes. Simple, clean, real motorcycles with inventive tech in the XJ line that is still being utilized today.

The mileage is no guarantee the back brake is good, it's the time that is the main factor and how much the bike sat. Even though you don't hear about shoes de-laminating every day it only takes one time while your at speed to ruin your day.

Look it over good, get as much info as you can, ride it, compression test, buy it! And welcome to XJBikes.

 

Chuck those old Marzocchi shocks! Leak, rebuild, leak, rebuild...I speak from experience!

2 owners since'82? Looks like some serious downtime with those miles on the clock (if they genuine)? Check the wear on the footpegs...they tell a story.

Nice bike though.

 

Welcome.
Honestly, that speedo plate looks tits. NONE of you can argue with that! no sun damage???

The brake lines are likely original, look for a date on them. The originals had the date printed on them.

Consider the cost of brake pads and lines, proof the valves were done at 7500 interval, then buy that sucker! It looks excellent in the pics considering the age.

Or, go look at it then report back. Look for oil leaks from the alternator (left side center cylindrical cover), Have him start it from a cold start (put your hand to the motor before), look in the oil and brake sight glasses for decently clean fluids, check the front pads, fork seals, firm brakes, and everything everyone else has mentioned. TEST DRIVE IT.

Keep us informed. Good luck.

 

It doesn't matter if the bike only has 10k miles. If the bike has been sitting, the rear brakes need to be visually inspected for delamination. I have seen several sets of shoes fall apart after just sitting. They were like new when shelved. Even if the bike has been well cared for, you are still looking at a minimum of $400 for tires, brakes, brake hoses, master cylinder rebuild and valve shims. Try to get him down. $1300 is kind of high.

 

Like in most of the Midwest, Ohio bikes are often in surprisingly good shape. There are lots of geezers out there who ride a couple times in the summer, do all maintenance, and eventually give up riding, leaving behind a cherry bike. If you can score it soon after the last time it was ridden, you get an excellent bike. OTOH Ive seen tons that "ran good when put away 10 years ago, tires look like new, will probably start with a jump, carbs might need gone thru" etc. and they're asking what the bike is worth in perfect mechanical condition. Here's an example, the guy won't budge lower than $750 (last time I asked), and wants a buyer who doesn't mind the small detail that the bike hasn't been started in 10 years.
http://cleveland.craigslist.org/mcy/3081593903.html
But oooooo! it's so shiiiiiiiiny! :roll:

 

$1000 max, and that's a stretch. Valve adjustment's no biggie, that has to happen every 5K regardless.

However, it appears to have the original brake lines; 30-year old pads are not to be trusted regardless of mileage; and it will likely need most of the "standard stuff" to make it truly rideable/reliable.

So figure on spending about $400~$600 more; and add that to what you pay for it.

And I would still get a compression test.

 

I figure if you like these old bikes and don't mind working on them, bark him down and get it. As long as the engine is good, you can fix, update or rebuild everything else. Just might be down till you get it reliably safe. I like to restore bikes so I might be a little biased on this, but I think you'll love it one you get it going. It's definitely a nice start. I, unfortunatly spent a little more than I wanted on my current project. But, they're hard to find in running condition close to me. So, if you like the way it looks and feels when you sit on it, most everyone on here will agree that you will love it when you ride it. As long as it has a good engine...

 

Buy it. Unless your budget is really tight, I don't see the price as a hurdle. After all what would you pay for a new bike over there of similar capacity?

 

Oh well...

Far as I'm concerned, the owner is lucky to be alive.
Tires DOT stamped from 1999. Dry cracking in front tire, rear is chicken-striped and slick. Say $225 if I get a good deal from MC superstore and have them mounted and balanced at the friendly store here for $25/wheel.
Original brake lines. Front brakes felt awful -spongy though the first pat of the m/c piston, then jerky. So that means lines, probably M/C kit and caliper seals as well. I figured $150 parts there.
Owner says he replaced the plugs, but they're rusty. Also lots of discoloration and oxidation on the cylinder fins. Carbs behave as if, well, as if they've never been cleaned. Tank looked good inside though, at least no rust in the system.

Valves were never done.

I rode it a few blocks, just to go through the gears (gently). Bike did sound nice and acceleration was responsive. Steering felt tricky to me though - kind of like I couldn't relax. Dunno, maybe I'm more used to cruiser handling.

Anyway, I offered $700, he said "too low", I said 750, he said "no less than $1000" I said "good luck, nice bike but not worth that much to me."

So I guess I'm back to my search for a bike.

Thanks for the advice, everyone!

Ride Safe

Ben

 

I think you made a good call on that one; pretty doesn't make it valuable.

 

The ride feeling weird is a bad sign too. If there is one thing XJ's are known for it's feeling very solid and sure footed when they are set up right. Could be as simple as worn out forks, the bad front tire, worn bearings, etc. But it could also indicate a bent frame and that is either very expensive to replace or time consuming.

 

If I was asking 1100, and you offered 700, i'd say get off my property. Kinda a slap in the face. That's just me tho, maybe things are diff down in the US. Usually anything less than 80% of asking is "low balling".