XJ650J Front Rotor to Fork Clearance?.

Hey. I've refit the front wheel after a couple of weeks and notice the rotor comes aweful close to the fork rotor channel. Is this normal or did I miss something upon installation? Thanks.

I'll try to post a pic.

 

Something's not right.

 

Thanks Fitz. Though that still doesnt help my problem The rotor clears it by about .020" ! It runs nice and true. The spacer goes under the crown bolt and not between the speedo and the fork right?

 

From looking at the fiches, it seems that the only parts that should be on the outside of the fork leg, is washer and castle nut. First thing on the inside should be your speedo drive.

Hope that helps some, looks like you've got something in the wrong order.

 

Thanks for the post KrS. that is the order I have it in. Crown bolt,Washer,fork, then speedo. So its baffling me atm. I'm tempted to insert one of these used crush washers between the speedo and fork just to get the rotor a little further away from the fork.

I just stuck some feeler gauges in there and literally only have .010" between rotor and fork. If I used one of these old oil drain crush washers I can get that gap up to ~ .050" and still have some bite against the speedo stop.

 

btw. The fiche I've been looking at is the exploded assembly and doesnt actually show the washer on either side of the fork. Still, I cant see the washer going on the inside of the fork against the speedo. This is getting old. gonna do something else for a bit then come back to it.

 

Maybe this will help; this is the XJ650 cutaway.

From the right I have

The castle nut, Washer, fork, speedo housing, bearing, wheel hub….

FlyGp

 

One thought, were the wheel bearings changed? If the internal spacer (red in the picture) was left out the force on the speedo side bearing could push the rotor toward the fork leg. At the same time it destroys the bearing.

FlyGp

 

Fly, That full section is AMAZING!! I've seen some of your other work around here and you are truely talented. I've done machining and am currently working on two associates in CAD Design and Manufacturing Tech then a bachelors in I have yet to decide . Big hats off to you Sir.

On topic: I didnt do any work on the bearings other than inspecting and adding some grease.
I had both forks off to clean and add new seals, but I did one fork at a time and made sure one was always secured as to not disturb the position of the top and bottom trees.

The only real change I made to the forks was in where they were clamped. Last owner lowered the front end for his wife who was 4'8". They were outta the top clamp about 1"! The ride felt real unstable at low speeds (probably because the trail was F'ed with) so I brought them down into the clamp to .125" on both sides measured with dial caliper. Axel meets both holes very nicely. I know the stanchions are supposed to be located at the top of the upper bracket. This position was more for aesthetic reasons. Should be more stable now regardless.

Anyways, Thanks for the diagram. gonna save it ffr. Tom. Im gonna pull the wheel back off and reexamine the internals based off of your pic. Also, I dont have the caliper attached atm. Still I'm a fairly technical dude and this is driving me bananas cause everything should be tits with or WO the caliper attached. Hope I get to a resolution to help future searchers with this issue. Will update thread accordingly.