Question about about setting float heights

So I wet set the float heights with the carbs off the bike (after rebuilding them). The clear tube method appeared to indicate they were set right (with carbs clamped to a board - level).

Now they are back on the bike and it appears #3 and #4 are not firing at idle. When I rev it they are firing but back at idle, next to nothing. No adjustment of idle mixture seems to have any effect.

So I rechecked the float levels with the clear tube on the bike and they are low - like about 1/4 inch low. I know I can remove the outer carb bowl with them mounted on the bike but it looks like the inner one would be a pita.

Is it possible to remove the float bowl and do a slight float adjustment with the carbs still on the bike? I'd have to fabricate an allen wrench of the right length, but would the bowl come off in the inner carb?

 

When you wet set the floats, did you drain and recheck them several times before calling it good? Also, when checking on the bike, the bike needs to be on the center stand and the front propped. Also, one thing to check is to make sure all of the needle valves are the same length. Some of the aftermarket valves are longer than stock parts.

 

I had similar problems with the wet check, but mine ran rich. ( I did the wet check several times just to be sure.) Finally, I set the floats to factory specs using a homemade float gauge. Here is the one I made for my XJ700n:
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=37364.html
I was surprised to find that the floats were off quiet a bit even though the wet check appeared to be good. I set the floats using the float gauge and the wet check was still within specs and my richness went away. In my opinion if you set the floats with a gauge and the wet check is far off something is wrong. If you have replaced the float needle you need to measure it and compare to the length of the stock needle (Chacal can give you that measurement). Finally, make sure there are not air bubbles in the tube or you will get a bad reading.
Initially after cleaning my carbs I got no combustion on #1 unless I opened the pilot screw about 5 turns. Discovered a torn and leaking intake gasket that was sucking a lot of air. Now my pilot screws are in the 1 1/2 range.

 

Trust the wet set on the bike.
Cant help on advice about setting on the bike, as I grit my teeth and remove the carbs. Dream carb run since the rebuild, 13,000kms and still smooth.

 

Thanks fellas. Guess I'll be taking them off again. I only checked and adjusted them once. Grrrrrr

 

mook's advice is spot on.

Before you even take a "real" reading, let the bowls fill until they shut off; drain them down; let them fill until they shut off a few times first. "Operate" the floats and valves a few times before seeing where they are actually shutting off.

If you just go by one or two readings, the FIRST one or two especially, you'll end up beating your head against the wall. "Work" them a bit, let them get all seated, then check your levels. Multiple times.

 

I understand. It seems daunting and time consuming, but every single time you do it you get faster and it gets easier.

Not wanting to burden you further but when the PO cleaned my carbs before I got my 550 he did an amazing job on the jets; but there was small amounts of some nasty crap left behind which clogged two of my pilot circuits. So while you have them off just be sure they are truly clean before you wet set and replace them. Being TOTALLY thorough is the best way to ensure you won't need to pull them back off anytime soon.

 

'Nuff said.

 

Can we remove the jewelry merchant? I was trying to glean info about my floats, and almost bought a new ring for my girlfr- er, wife

 

Thanks Sheriff. First time I've seen that.