First motorcycle

I just (today) bought a 1981 Midnight Maxim 650. Loved the look of it, and I think it will be good for my first motorcycle. I have already appreciated the advice in the forums and I'm sure I'll be back many times!

I know very little, but I'm going to check brake lines, pads, shoes.

Thanks!

Tim

 

Welcome to XJBikes Tim, congrats on your classic moto, those Midnight Maxim's were a bold style statement from Yamaha and are fairly rare so you have a good canvas to build upon.

Get yourself a hardcopy of a manual. The shop manual covers everything in detail but is written with trained mechanics in mind. The aftermarket varieties (Haynes, Clymer, etc.) are great for changing your second sentence. Obviously coming here and realizing that there are no stupid questions only stupidity when you don't know and don't ask will help even more but you will need both sources.

Upload a pic so we can all appreciate your new ride!

 

Tim,

Welcome and Great Choice! XJ's are good bikes. You've come to the right place. There is a wealth of knowledge about these bikes here. Everything you'll need to know to get your bike running and riding safely is here. I'd invite you to "kick your shoes off" but shoes/boots are ESSENTIAL to wrenching and riding XJ's. Once she's up and running I'm sure you'll say like many of us have..."I'M GLAD I CAME!" Good Luck with your resto.

Gary

 

Welcome! Let's see some pics!

 

Well, I'm mid-thirties with a wife and four kids, so I'm not inclined to be intentionally reckless.

Also, the DMV wants an engine number, but the only numbers I see are the VIN on the right and another number under the front of the seat, but none on the front part of the engine. Which do I give them? Or is there another place it might be? Thanks for the welcome.

Tim

 

The "engine" number is a "shorty" version of the VIN; it is stamped onto the top of the tranmission housing. (On the right side, above the clutch housing.)

The full 17-digit VIN should be on a label on the (usually RH) side of the steering head.

If that label is missing, you can "reverse engineer" the full VIN from the shorty VIN using the info found here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14577.html

 

there is a shorty VIN on top of the clutch case portion of the engine - right side - near oil fill hole

the engine size is located on the front of the engine between #2 & #3 exhaust headers, on the engine block

 

Thanks!

Tim

 

Nice bike!
I really like the black and gold. Getting ideas for my bikes makeover...

 

I'm liking the bike, Tim!

 

Question: is cleaning the carbs something I need to do before I ride it? I intend to replace brake shoes and pads and hoses, fuse box, and I need to figure out why none of the turn signals work (the right side ones look clean and nice, the left side ones are sort of corroded around where the bulb goes in), but the engine sounds pretty nice right now.

 

It wouldn't be a bad idea to clean the carbs of course, but it being a big job, you might want to do it when you're ready to do a thorough maintence upkeep, when you have everything apart. That's my plan with my bike this winter, which is running fine now but I can tell it needs some cleaning. How is it starting and running right now?

 

Here's the thing:

Valve clearances on these bikes were supposed to have been checked at 3000 miles. It didn't often happen. Like never.

They needed to be checked again, and adjusted, every 5000 miles thereafter. Didn't happen.

These motors are basically "bulletproof" so they will run and sound "fine" right up until the day they hole a piston or burn a valve.

At the very least you need to check your valve clearances. If you find any that are tight, you need to get them in spec. You HAVE TO do this anyway before trying to sync your freshly-cleaned carbs or it won't work. Plus if you plan to actually ride the bike, you'll need to do it every 5K.

If you just keep riding around on a bike that hasn't had its valve clearances attended to, you'll be posting "bike starts fine cold but won't run once warm."

When that happens it will be TOO LATE.

Check your valve clearances, do a compression test if you haven't already and keep an eye on your plugs. Anything less can get real expensive; or lead to tears and another parted-out bike.

 

^Not on this bike. The valves should actually be loose, and get tighter as time goes on. Lots of people hear a proper 'clatter' from the valvetrain on this bike and think something is wrong, when in fact the silence is what is deadly on this bike.

As far as cleaning the carbs, if it runs, it runs, and you can just ride it. But it won't be performing at 100%, and might perform a lot closer to 60% or worse, if you don't service them.

Valve shim adjustment is much more important, though.

 

What tool do I need to check valve clearances?

Btw, it has just under 17,000mi on it.

 

Another question: how in the world do I get the bike up on its middle stand? Part of the problem may be that the PO said he lowered it about 3/4 of an inch or something, but that doesn't seem like enough to cause a problem. What am I missing here?

I appreciate the quick and informative responses! I think this place will be a lifesaver, especially for a newbie like myself.

 

If untouched, it's only 14,000 miles overdue. If by some miracle it had the initial check, it's only 9,000 miles overdue. Better have a peek. If untouched you're in the danger zone. If you find all 8 tight, don't be surprised, we won't be.

To CHECK, all you need are basic tools, a 19mm wrench and a feeler gauge set, preferably "pure" metric.

This should help: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

And Part Deux: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

Keep something in mind: I did these (and many more, BTW) as a supplement to the service manuals; not a replacement.

YOU NEED A SERVICE MANUAL. This is a 30-year old bike, and you've got a lot to do. Stick with it, and it's way worth it. There's nothing cooler than riding around on a "new" 30-year old bike.

It sounds like you've got the right attitude and the right idea; and we're here to help. But be prepared for it to be a tad more than you first imagined (it was even for me and I've been at this a long time.)

I'd post pics of my bikes again but I'd probably get flamed for it. Check my gallery. It IS worth it.

 

I do have a manual, and I love how the bike looks. Thanks.

 

On my XJ550 it takes a good bit of strength to pop it up and then once up it doesn't really suspend my rear tire. On the XV750 (66lbs heavier) I could do with one foot on the ground and only one on the bike, it's easy.

The trick is to trap the center stand with your foot (I don't recommend bare footed) right behind the center stand leg and then make sure it's touching the ground on both legs(centered), then grab the bike directly above the stand (or right behind) and put your other hand on the bars to pull backwards while you pull upwards above the stand. It should just pop up and on. Once you get used to it, it is easier. I can put up a 1500cc bike easier than my 550 though so sometimes it is the stand that's not quite right.

 

It took a thick book, but I finally got it up on the stand

 

The valves don't get loose. They get tight. From the constant cycling of the engine the valve actually moves up into the head closing the gap between the top of the valve stem and the cam. Also with the beautiful sound of the Yamaha valve train I can't imagine hearing it before it's to late. Nice bike by the way.

 

Right they will actually go quiet as they get tight because there is no distance between the lob and shim. Properly adjusted valves will make a light tapping sound at idle.