Removing my front forks/rebuilding them

Okay guys I have the bike on the center stand. My rear wheel is about 2 inches off the ground. How do I go about removing the forks? Does it rely on the front wheel for balance on the CS? Better safe than screwed....


It looks like I remove the caps at the top of the forks. Pop the chrome caps off the brace that the brake lines route through and that has the yamaha cover. Then loosen the bolts underneath. Now do I do all of that first... Or do I loosten the "pinching" bolts around the front wheel main rod. Then remove the main rod. Which would release the front wheel FIRST? Then do the above steps?

 

Hi Ryan, If you have a jack stand, have someone put weight on the rear of the seat to raise the front wheel off the ground. There is a crossover on the frame that is perfect for placing the jack stand under. Now you can take off the front wheel.

 

Next, remove the fender, then remove and support the brake calipers with a bungee or rope. You don't need to remove the upper tripple clamp, just loosen the pinch bolt the holds the top of the fork stanchion. Next, loosen the pinch bolts on the lower tripple clamp and the fork should slide right down, if it doesn't, take a screwdriver and put it in the slot of the pinch and tap it to open up the clamp. You may have to do this at both the top and bottom clamps.

 

I do not have a jackstand could I just use the crappy one that's in the back of my 1994 honda accord?

My bike currently has the cooling system completely removed, the exhaust system completely removed, as well as the calipers and brake lines removed.

Where are you saying I should jack it up by?


Btw super jealous of your old bmw's I would love to own a vintage bmw cafe racer at some point. I got to drive a 540i m sport package for a little over a year and a half and that thing was a monster.

 

If you don't have a good stand, a find an appropriate length of 4x4 lumber to put under the engine. I miss my R90s quite a bit.

 

It's a moto any car jack will do, you can use any of the frame up front to support it but make it as stable as possible. Also since you have the exhaust completely removed you could place a piece of wood on the oil sump and support it there-but not the filter housing.

 

The exhaust is completely removed. So that's not a problem. Sorry to sound unintelligent.... So use the pan not the spin on oil filter obviously right? Or should I not use the pan?

 

The best place for any support is THE FRAME, but yes, you can use the oil pan, it should be strong enough. Just make sure you spread out the load with a piece of plywood or planking.

 

You could try it this way..

http://youtu.be/zcLx2UE-q4Q

 

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... forks.html

 

DON'T SUPPORT THE BIKE BY THE MOTOR.

If you need to support the front of the bike, put a jackstand under the FRAME; if the "X" doesn't have a front cross member that's easily accessible, use a pair of supports under the frame rails. You don't want to crack a casting.

 

Also, there are a few steps to disassembling the forks that are MUCH easier if you accomplish them while the forks are still on the bike. Here's how I do the 650 forks:

1) Get the front wheel up using jack stands or something under the frame. On my Honda CBR, this means removing the gas tank and supporting the bike from ABOVE using a hoist. But whatever. Get the front wheel UP.

2) Remove the caps and the air valves (if any) on the tops of the forks.

3) Remove the springs. Yes. Do that now, while the forks are trapped in the triple tree. I use a long bar clamp to push the top cap down a half inch or so, remove the retaining ring, and slowly let the cap out with the clamp. Pull springs.

4) Remove front wheel. The next part is much easier with the wheel off.

5) Remove fork oil drain plug. As the oil drains out, you can push additional oil out by pumping the fork tube up and down (which is difficult if the forks are out of the triple, have springs in them, or have a wheel attached).

6) Loosen the damper rod. Again, this is easier to do with the forks in the triple. You may want to stick the front axle back through the lower legs to help keep them from twisting, or even re-mount the wheel if you don't feel it's stable. I don't recommend actually removing the damper rod at this point, but breaking that bolt at the bottom of the lower leg free can be quite a feat without the fork held FIRMLY by something, and the entire fork is *round*. The bike itself is the best set of vice grips I've found. I also recommend a 1/2" drive 8mm hex socket, and possibly a breaker bar. (Impact driver, anyone?) That's for getting it OUT. Putting it back in should not require nearly that much force.

7) NOW remove the axle and wheel, then loose the pinch bolts on the upper and lower clamps, and the forks will slide out downward.

8) Finish disassembly, cleaning, seal replacements, etc. on the bench. Since you're reading this now, I recommend that you go find whatever drift you're going to use to drive your new oil seals in now. I use a length of PVC pipe. Your mileage may vary.

Hope that helps!

 

He is not trying to support the whole bike on the motor, the rear tire and center stand are there. He is only trying to maintain the elevatation of the front end to allow work on the forks.

 

Excellent advice guys I am going to get started on it tonight.

And I was hoping no one would catch that. Lets just say the gf has a way of pointing things out that are stupid simple that I miss....like that the center stand won't touch the ground evenly on both sides because the bike is at an angle..... Hold it up. It mounts perfectly. Talk about embarassing



Not super sure on some of the terms that were used in the answers so ill try and find a diagram in my service manual when I get home.

 

Thank you for that link man!


I bought a jack stand. It came with two of them that can support 2tons a piece for under $30.00

So I lifted the front wheel up and throw a jack stand under the brace across the front and another one under the engine frame piece.

In the process of getting the forks off now/front wheel.

 

Very good.

The best way to work on forks is to use a padded bench vise to hold them individually.

Otherwise, try some of the various DIY methods that have been suggested.

 

I Don't have a work bench unfortunately maybe the gf's dad will let me work on them in his shop. I'll have to ask.

 

Throw a sandbag (or other weight) over the seat and you will not have to use a prop. Anything that will keep the front wheel off the ground will work. No need in making it complicated. Luckily I have a floor jack so used it when I did all three of my bikes. Don't know what it is about old bikes needing fork seals but it seems that is one area that gets neglected. That and keeping those valves adjusted regular.

 

Not a bad idea...but why not do both? If that sand bag comes off, you'll be sorry, and I can personally attest to the result of knock the bike off the jackstand under the frame when the front wheel is off. Either way, the centerstand kicks up and all the weight is resting on rear wheel and exhaust. Takes two people to get it back on the center stand.

I can' be the only one who's done this . Using two methods to prop the bike up certainly sounds better than one

 

hbwb and "Bender", you guys have misunderstood what's going on, let me explain it for you. Ryan has acquired a pair of jack stands and will place them under his frame to support the bike. It will be on the center stand and on the jack stands and it should be quite stable. Any way, it's very unlikely that the bike will fall if it's on a hard, flat surface.

 

Like I said, I've done it. Maybe I'm just more "talented" then the rest of you guys. Maybe it was how my jackstand head fit on the frame with the oil filter cover in the way. Also, trying to nut up the rear wheel was a contributing factor (I had both wheels off and had just put the rear back on).

None the less, in the described configuration, with one jack stand under the cross brace (I couldn't fit two), it is VERY possible to push the bike forward, rocking it off the center stand and jack stand. Then it's center stand up, dead lift the bike from the forks and have a helper (i.e. wife who was luckily home) lower the center stand and replace the jack.

I'm just saying...if your garage is cluttered, and you're a little clutsy, it's a possibility and to be careful. I was just noting how hbwb's suggestion could act as a back-up.

 

Actually ManBot, I agree with you on the "possibility" of pushing it off the center stand, but I disagree with you on your choice of the word "very", because you really have to push hard to over come the stability of the jack stand and center stand.

 

Strap the centerstand to the front of the frame so it can't retract. :wink:

 

Its up on the center stand with a jackstand under the front frame and one under the frame further back should it slip. I have a whole space in the garage to utilize so I am not worried.

I've drained the oil tonight and will start to break them down tomorrow. Will post pics as I go.

 

".like that the center stand won't touch the ground evenly on both sides because the bike is at an angle."

just a thought
maybe you should just quit while your ahead

 

Alright Guys I am at a stuck point. I have the springs out and have the bottom hex bolts loosened to where I can turn them without the mounted. I have the springs out as well as the spacer and spring set. The dust cover and circlip are also removed. I have drained the oil. And the air release. I cant get the bottom bolt out it just spins it seems? Every video I have watched says that it should come out and the fork should split.

I've been using the video posted earlier.

this:

http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f21/h ... 10599.html

and this from my service manual/




am I missing something stupid?

 

Okay so apparently there is some type of a bolt down in the forks that requires "from another thread I read" A t handle tool. Which is no longer in production and needs to be fabricated if just turning the bottom hex key doesnt do it...

So i would like to try the method where you use the front axle as I don't have anyone who can weld... I got it from this web page :

http://www.bronyaur.co.uk/xj9003.htm

So do I just lock two nuts on it and drop it down the fork attached to an extension or two? It looks like I'll need almost 10 inches of extra spacers with the axle to get it down there... then do I throw the side that has the two nuts or the solid axle bolt down first? Do I need to go buy a long extension?

 

Also I got the dust cover and the circlip out but nothing further. Will this method work with just the parts pictured above removed? Or is there something else that I need to do?

 

you don't need to weld anything to make a fork tool. Effectively what you need to do is make the world's longest 19mm allen wrench.

A lot of spark plug sockets have an external hex cast on the outside of them. Find a spark plug socket with a 19mm hex "butt."

Then flip it over and put it on an extension with the hex at the tip, and add every extension in your toolbox until it's about 2 feet long.

Or you can use a long hunk of threaded rod with two 19mm nuts locked together, they don't need to be welded. But the upside-down spark plug socket is easier, and all the pieces have other purposes.

 

Ok. I am not familiar with the 700, but I had a similar issue with my 750 when I rebuilt my forks. There is a 19mm recessed hex inside the fork tube that the allen bolt in the bottom screws into. If the 700 is the same (should be quite similar), then you need a tool that will go down into the tube to hold that hex still while you remove the outside allen bolt. There are plenty of options without having to purchase the special Yamaha tool.

1) (Learned from member Bigfitz) A spark plug socket with a hex head on it that measures 19mm, and has a hole through it that you can put the extension in it thru the spark plug hole. Then just put extensions together until you have enough length.


2) Fabricate a tool out of all thread. It be 1/2" if I remember correctly. Either case, you (the tool) will need to have nuts that measure 19mm, or .748" and then a length ( 2 feet will do nicely) of all thread rod that the nuts will thread onto. Buy the all thread rod, an 4 nuts. If you have a welder, or know someone that does, weld one nut on each end. If you don't have access to a welder, then take the 4 nuts, put to on each end with permanent thread locking compound. Tighten the 2 nuts against each other so the end nut is flush with the end of the threaded rod. Let the compound dry a few minutes and you have the special tool.

I much prefer option 1. My spark plug socket that works is a 5/8" Craftsman. Plus, I can just take the pieces apart and store them neatly in my tool box.

 

Dangit!! Spent to much time typing that one up...sorry for the repeat Fitz

 

No need to apologize I learn by seeing so the PICS help a TON.

So if I use the 5/8th's that has the extended hexagon on the back side of it? Mine is labeled as a spark plug tool in my kit. I'll make sure that it's 19mm. So i putt the extensions through is so I am not actually using the front but the back to fill in a hole locking it in place essentially? Do I need to remove any parts or just do it like it is?

 

COOL, Mook! I never took pictures. Thanks.

 

How do you get it to say on to your extensions? Mine doesn't lock it's a circle from that way with it backwards. Do I need to go get another one?

 

Yes, you will need to get one that has the square 3/8th drive all the way thru like the one pictured above. I have several boxes of tools, and of that 5 different spark plug sockets. The one I had that happened to work perfectly was the 5/8th Craftsman socket. But you can go to the any parts store and match one, up they usually have a wide selection. Or Sears carries Craftsman tools.

Also, most new spark plug sockets have a rubber insert to grip the insulator of the plug to make it easier to withdraw it from the engine. When you find the socket that has the right size hex, with the 3/8th square drive all the way thru, you will need to pop the rubber insert out to put it on the extension backwards. Then when you are done using the socket, push the rubber insert back into the socket.

 

Darn the one I got was a hexagon for some reason I assumed it was. So I need one that is a square. Think I found one at a store on line I will go get it tomorrow. Looking ahead a bit. Air pressure on the forks... Doesn't say anything about putting it back in even though I had to release it. On another site I read that you put the wheel back on the bike while the forks are off the ground still and just that when they compress it is naturally there. Is that correct?

 

Yes, you need the hexagon on the top of the socket that measures 19mm. The square in the middle that the extension goes in is 3/8th and needs to be go thru so an extension can be put in it thru the spark plug end of the socket. Get a short extension from your tool box and stick it in your pocket. When you go to get it, start out by looking for a "3/8th drive 5/8th" spark plug socket". Tell the parts guy what you are looking for and that you want to make sure it will go on the extension backwards.

What I do is put the fork tubes back on the bike and tighten the upper tree sinch bolts just to hold them into position. Then put the wheel on the bike, hand tighten the fasteners, same with the fender, and then undo the racket strap holding the rear of the bike down that elevates the front. This holds pressure on the front wheel and forks. Then I just everything lined up properly, and torque the wheel bolts and lower tree sinch bolts to spec with a torque wrench. If you took the triple tree/steering head bearings apart, (SUGGESTED) you can then torque the steering head bearings to spec (after, of course you cleaned and repacked or upgraded the bearing with new taper bearings) then the upper tree sinch bolts.

 

Okay I am confused here..... I tried doing like you said 2ft worth of extensions, 3/8th's drive 5/8 spark plug socked mounted upside down to where the hexagon is facing down. I get it all the way down to the bottom of the tube. and... nothing it doesnt seem to grab anything. It kind of clicks but turning the allen key at the bottom does zlich. It will spin both directions but I never feel any pressure on my extension/socket side... What gives?

 

And the bolt on the bottom never gets further out...

 

Are you sure the socket is seated properly in the fork tube?

Also, make sure your ratchet is set to the 'loosen' setting, otherwise you are just turning your whole socket assembly - I'm sure you already know this, but sometimes it's that 'a-ha' moment when you get so wrapped up in a project you make a stupid mistake - something I am regularly guilty of.

 

The 700 (and 900) models use a damper rod that requires a 22mm hex to hold it.......

 

Thus if you have a set of larger sockets, such as select impact sockets, you can use the same theory, however likely with a half-inch drive, and still proceed as planned.

Alternately, go pick up a piece of threaded stock long enough for the job and a 22mm bolt or two. Two options here:

1. Thread the bolt on and weld it into place, and keep your handy fork tool for later.

2. Use a combination of nuts (a flange nut or two may do nicely) and 'double nut' them, tightening them very tightly against each other - again at the end of the rod. The use of a lock washer of some sort may be of assistance here, or a locknut.

 

Dealing with the steering neck is a royal pain. Taking the forks apart is the time to CHECK the steering head, but not necessarily disssemble it.

The Tests: When the steering bearings are in good shape, you should be able to move the handlebars from stop to stop (all the way left and all the way right) without feeling any resistance and without any kind of "play" up or down. It should simply turn smoothly.

The most common thing that indicates a problem is when you feel a kind of "notch" where the steering wants to settle in a certain spot, usually close to center, where the steering spends a lot of time. The bearings develop a worn spot right there and want to stick just a little. If you feel this, they need to be replaced.

When you have the forks off, this is an ideal time to test because it's much easier to feel smaller bad spots in the bearings without all of the momentum of the front end to hide problems. After you have the forks and wheel off, grab hold of the lower clamps on the triple tree - the bottom part that holds the forks - and turn everything left and right. If you feel anything other than smooth movement, any kind of notching or bumping at all, you need to replace the steering bearings.

That will be a whole extra thread, so run the test first. If you need to do the bearings, start a new thread, and contact chacal for the replacement bearings. If you don't need new bearings, you have saved yourself a ton of extra work.

 

I got a friend who owns a garage to get them out for me.

 

Now that I have those removed what do I do? The fork seals are still in and they are still one piece the fork hasn't came in half yet. All my manual says is remove fork seals... Doesn't really say how to do that.


Sorry if this is a stupid question...

 

meh, if i had the forks off i'd just go ahead and do the steerer bearings at the same time.

Something about getting two birds stoned at the same time

 

I think they're good for now. I would do them... But I've had been using the room mates spot in the garage so he asked me to try and finish up by this weekend... Mtnbike aren't the forks just supposed to come apart after the bottom bolt is removed?