Should I buy this '81 550 Seca?

Hello new friends,
I found this 1981 550 Seca on CL. I've never owned one but think it looks like my kind of ride (and apparently these bikes have quite a following) . The bad news is it was last ridden in August or September 2011 and has been parked since then. The owner said everything worked fine before he parked it but now it won't start (surprise, surprise). He said he "tried charging the battery but it would not crank - like no connection". He said everything else was stock except one side panel and newer tires - I haven't laid eyes on the bike live yet.

So I'm thinking it could use a new battery and carb cleaning? Is it worth it to check it out? I was thinking of taking the external car battery jumper I have and trying to hook it up and see if it will turn over - is this a bad idea? I'm also not a mechanic (but I am relatively observant) - I'll need to pay someone to do the work - how much should I expect to pay someone to get it rolling again? He originally said he'd sell for $850 but when I mentioned it may need a new battery and carb work he said he was open to offers.

Here's where I need your wisdom: what else should I look at/ask about? Is it easy to tell if the tank is full of rust or if it's going to be an expensive fix? What would be a fair offer? I'm very hesitant to buy something that doesn't run - I don't need and can't afford a money-pit (who can?).

Thanks for your help and patience with a noob.

 

OOOH--- it has potential.

If you understand going in that you're going to need to spend between $600~$800 if you want it safe and reliable, then go for it. If it's a non-runner then at least be sure to get a compression test. If it makes decent numbers (120~130psi for a 550) then offer the guy $400. Maybe $600. Then your overall budget would still be under $1500.

So I guess it depends on your definition of "money pit." Yes, it will take some investment beyond the original purchase price.

They are worth it...

 

And keep in mind that $600-$800 is if you do all the work yourself.

 

Thanks for the advice. My definition of a money pit is money in and no working bike out. I don't mind investing in getting it rolling.

And the total newbie question: When you say "get a compression test" what does that mean exactly? I borrow the bike and take it to a shop? It doesn't sound like something simple enough I can do with basic tools. How much would I expect to pay for that?

Thanks for the hand holding - some day I'll walk on my own.

 

get a compression tester at an auto parts store. 30 bucks or so.

Unscrew a spark plug, thread the air hose into the spark plug hole, unplug the tci, hold the throttle open, and press the starter.

the needle should go up to around 140-150

 

it better not, it's a 550. Spec for a 550 is 100 minimum; 120 "standard" and 135 maximum. Healthy 550s usually make 120~130.

You need a compression tester with a 12mm fitting, and a freshly charged battery. When shopping compression testers be sure you get a kit with a 12mm fitting. I bring my own battery.

Remove all 4 spark plugs; unplug TCI (it's under the seat on a 550 Seca.)

Install compression gauge in one plug hole.

With throttle held wide open, spin motor until gauge stops rising; usually 5~6 "cranks." Record results.

Repeat for other 3 cylinders.

You're going to need a compression tester, add it to your tool kit. Part of that $600~$800 covers investment in some tools you probably don't have yet, you can cross this one off the list.

But as 'Kaz suggested, this is a DIY proposition. Most shops won't touch these bikes, and a lot that will have no clue and just make things worse. DO NOT come into this with a "take it to a shop" mentality or that money-pit thing WILL happen. There is WAY more to be done than would be reasonable to pay someone to do.

 

What he said ^ but if you don't want to buy the tester just yet & you have access to an Autozone or O'reilly where you live. They will 'loan' you one with a deposit on a cc and then when you return it, they refund the whole deposit-as in FREE!!

It is a really easy test to perform do it just like BF says. Under no circumstances would I spend that much on a non-runner, it's just a deal breaker. I won't buy a non runner w/o a comp test and then only if the $$$ makes sense.

It is a good looking Seca though, the tank is an easy fix. The only hard fixes are critical engine problems that would require splitting the case and slightly less so would be new rings or a rebuilt head. Electrical problems are almost never very expensive, but they can be a hassle to track them down sometimes. If it won't try and turn over even with a fresh battery then you probably have an electrical issue-safety cut off switch, bad connection, blown fuse, etc.

 

That's definitely got some potential. Great tips and advise so far but I would like to add a few others when you go to inspect the bike in person.

So you'll have a battery to crank it over and a compression tester. A spark plug socket and some fresh gas, right?

Now before you go cranking it over, remove the oil fill cap and smell for gas. If it does, the petcock may have leaked, and gas is in the crankcase. If that's the case I would offer him $400 to $450 tops, and I would NOT go cranking it over for the compression test without draining and refilling with the proper type and amount of oil. You'll also want to install a new filter. (The last $100 parts bike I bought had a leaking petcock and I drained around 6 quarts of gas and oil out of it, twice the proper amount).

Now if you get it cranking and the compression test is OK, make sure you check to see if there's gas in the tank and get whiff of how old it is. If there's gas in it that's a good sign. However, it'll smell like paint varnish if it's really stale and old. That will help in determining what other things will need attention, like the carbs.

Also, check the date codes on the tires. If there over six years old, you'll have an extra bargaining chip to help lower the initial purchase price.

If you do get it, you will have to take on fixing the bike up yourself. That's the only way you won't get too deep into the "Money Pit".

 

Thanks for all the help and education, people. A friend of a friend is a motorcycle mechanic and I'm looking into having him take a look at it with me. Or I'll follow your expert wisdom and go it alone if need be. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again.