What to check when buying 79 XJ750?

Hi all,

This is a great platform to bring together people who have an XJ or want to own an XJ. (like I want to)

Thing is, I will be meeting a seller next week and want to know from you what are things I should be checking for in this bike.
I see that people have problems with valve clearances, out of sync carbs, cylinder not running etc.

.What should be a good price to buy the bike if it is well maintained? What should it be if the bike is OK and in running condition?
.What are the things to inspect casually and which ones to inspect thoroughly?
.How can I check the condition of the propeller shaft and the bevel gears?
.How many miles should I test-ride and what to check at that time?
.Is there any way to check the condition of starter motor, ignitor coils and carb?
.How to check the condition of clutch?

Sorry for such a long list of questions.

Would also appreciate if you could add what else to check if I have missed out something.

Thanks in advance.

 

Pretty sure you mean XS750, or your seller does. Don't think they made any XJ's in '79 of any engine size. First one, if I'm not mistaken, was the 1980 XJ650 Maxim.

That being said...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yd8-cEkuB3s

Pretty much all you should need.

 

I too doubted this, hence purposely put the XJ in subject.
Thanks for clearing my doubts and for the video too.

Would you like to add anything particular for the XS 750?

And attached is the pic for your reference that he sent to me.

 

Definitely looks like an XJ. I'd say he has the year wrong. Don't know how he got it early and not late, though... Pretty sure YICS wasn't introduced until the seca 550 in either '80 or '81, but I'm not 100% on that.

Looks like it's in good shape, though... Little weird engine color scheme, but I guess it works. Seems pretty clean.

 

Be careful, different features came out at different times in different markets.

But I can say this for SURE: the bike in the pic is NOT a '79.

The only XJ around in '79 was the original, Japanese "home market" XJ400 as far as I know.

YICS was introduced (in the USA market) on the 1981 Seca 750 and the 550s, which came out that year (in the USA.) The 650 Maxim (came out in '80 here) was not YICS equipped until '82.

The bike in the pic IS an XJ, and as such it's not a '79. But it does have a YICS motor, which pretty much makes it a post-1980 model. Looks to me like a "Seca" 750, but in other parts of the world it would just be an XJ750.

What part of the world are you in? That's not a North American paint scheme.

 

I am in India. If you say it isnt American paint scheme. Then chances are its Japanese. Japan made Yamahas were popular back then.
Theres something written on the side cover, but the pic is low-res and this is all I got.
Maybe I can post a pic or two after I see it in person.
Added another photo if that can help.

 

American versions had a rectangular headlight. That one is round.

 

What he meant is that Yamaha made different versions of the same bike for different markets. They are all japanese.

It's going to be hard to give you a good price point, given that prices are so region specific (even between states in the USA), but less that owners in different countries tend to take different amounts of care for their bike.

Basically, compression is all you need with these XJs (engine rebuilds are somewhat cost prohibitive), everything else can be rebuilt, and expect there to be a lot of maintenance to do. chacal is our parts source, and he ships internationally.

I'd ask for maintenance records and reason for selling. If he keeps up with maintenance (and has proof) then you can get away without have to do much. But if he hasn't, it'll be your job to catch up on years of neglected maintenance.

 

Thanks ManBot13, I didnt know that. I thought they had multiple plants. I didnt realize it was way back in '82 when the concept of localized production was alien. Hehehe.

I am a newbie on multi-cylinder engines and dont quite know what a compression test is.
Does it need a professional? And what is the process?

 

The easiest way is to pull a spark plug out, put your finger over the spark plug hole, and press the starter button while trying your absolute hardest to keep your finger covering the hole. If you can keep your finger from being blown off, compression is bad for sure.

Better is to bring a gauge. Thread it in in place of a spark plug and press starter button. You want at least 120 to be happy, though a bike may run (poorly) with compression as low as 95.

It is also possible to bring the bike to a mechanic and have them do this for you.

You want to test all four cylinders, and of special importance is that no singular cylinder be especially lower in number than the others--you want them all more or less uniform.

If the bike is running, it has at least minimum compression.

 

Something looks odd about the carb manifolds and the carbs.also the engine looks a bit rough. Needs a clean and detail. Notice someone just spray bombed the valve cover with silver paint. The chrome on #1 exhaust pipe looks like its not doing so well either. You need to get the owner of this bike to take more detailed pictures so you can see what you are buying. Tell him you want close ups of every thing.

MN

 

Will have to carefully observe what you have just pointed out.
Thanks for that.

I think I better get some good quality photos once I meet him and post them here.
I will also post my impressions of the start-up and ride.
Meeting is next week. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Pls also let me know what are the other things I should check out during my visit.

 

Thanks Fintip.
I will surely try to do it provided the owner is willing.

Anything else I should check out or pay attention to?

The help I am getting from all the forum members is amazing. I certainly am very pleased.
I hope that the bike is good and the deal goes through to ride my favorite bike.

 

if the owner wont let you do a compression check.. walk away. quickly. money is better spent else where.

 

Well said.
will follow that.

 

Thank you everyone for your inputs.

Finally saw the bike yesterday.

The owner was applying polish when I reached there as though it was his baby. lol. I am sure he wanted to cast an impression on me that he was good in maintenance.

The bike was so HEAVY. Ufff.

Positives:
I would like to thank fintip for the video on youtube regarding purchasing old bikes. That really helped.
1. Bike looked very clean.
2. No discoloration of exhaust pipes.
3. Start was smooth.
4. Sound was fantastic.
5. The play in differential was minimal.

Negatives:
1. Key hole was missing altogether
2. As pointed in the youtube video, the engine was warm. I asked the owner why, and he said it was warmed up. Fishy!
3. Warning light kept blinking. He didnt know why was it so. Maybe someone here could help.
4. Rear brakes were screachy at first, then they settled down. The owner claims he doesnt ride it.
5. When put in neutral,the rpms would go down a lot, to the extent that the whole bike would vibrate. The owner would then quickly hit the kill switch.
6. After a ride, I went close to the engine compartment. I could smell burnt oil. I think this could be due to residue left behind during previous oil fill. Pls correct if I am wrong.

Price: USD 4500! We didnt agree on the price.

Below are some pics for your reference.

What do you think people?

 

Please, for the love of god, tell me "$4500" is a typo, and you meant, 450, or 1500, or something. If that's the price, condition of the bike is irrelevant, because NO XJ is worth that much. Unless ... no, just no.

 

Walk away. Way too much money for that bike.

 

Guys, keep in mind that India is a very different market from here. Almost every bike there is small displacement, 50cc to maybe 350 tops. This bike is a rare import that is much larger than anything you'd find on the streets there, a total luxury.

Still, that guy was acting really suspicious. You need to ask him if you can come and hear it start cold, and you need to let it idle.

That engine looks way too clean to be smelling burnt oil from the outside. Haven't ever smelled burning oil on my 650's, and I intentionally left them dirty, old exterior oil crud included. So that is definitely also suspicious.

So definitely don't pay pristine bike price. This guy needs to get in touch with reality.

 

no way even in another market, is it worth 4500. thats insane. especially when it still needs 600-800 to be put in it!

 

Hahaha. Love the words you have put down in disbelief.
But it was not a typo, and it is genuinely what he is asking for.

@fintip: Spot on. It is indeed a luxury to own a 'big bike' (more than 400cc).
'91 to '99 CBR 400s are being quoted for $4500.
India does not have more than 10 secas, and out of those only 2/3 would be running.
When I quoted the prices of seca in the US, he was like is this guy a serious buyer or has just come for a free ride.

The deal is not closed yet, I have made him an offer.
Shall keep you guys posted if it goes through.

Off-topic:
I got an email from a lady from Switzerland saying they had an '82 Seca Turbo. It was with a collector in a museum, has only 2384 kms (1500 odd miles). 'Mint' condition but 'does not start'. They can arrange for shipping and packing on chargeable basis.
Price: 15,000 Euros. 8O

 

Rear brakes are shoe, not disc, so they shouldn't squeal right?

LCD console would tell you what the Warning light was about. Did it say HEAD, BATT, etc?

Burnt oil could also be an oil leak getting to the exhaust pipes exterior. Could be as minor as spilled oil from a fill up (or even polish on the pipes) to a valve cover leak, on up to anything more serious. You'd have to ride it again to isolate the source and do some detective work to know for sure.

Key hole missing? Where'd he put the key?

I don't know why rpm would go DOWN when in neutral, I'd think they'd go up if the clutch was dragging a bit.

 

Thanks Manbot.

Rear brakes made sound sound only for the first 100 meters, then they settled down. I wanted to ask him to open the assembly. I will save this for my next visit.

Head and Battery were on in the LCD panel.
Owner claims he has put in new AMCO Yuasa battery from US.

He made an alternate key which was quite long. The key would go deeper, turn it to ON, and then he would keep the keys back in his pocket. If he wanted to shut the bike off, put the key and turn it off.

When I started the bike and tried to put it in first, the gear would make sounds 'krrrrrrr' and not engage. I had this problem in my previous bike when the idling rpms were high.
Strangely, after a ride of a few miles, this problem didnt happen, but the reverse happened, of the bikes rpm going down way below to almost stalling.

Since his speedo cable was kaput, I couldnt make a reading of speed vs gear. Shall do it next time. Maybe this will help to identify the life of clutch.