Putting headers back into collector box and having issues

I removed my headers to strip and paint them and now can't seem to get the exhuast back on properly. I tried putting the headers onto the under section and could do it fine but then it wouldn't match up with the headers just right. So I figured I had someting out of order. Played with it more and more no luck. So then I tried placing the headers onto the bike then puting the box on. It matches up. Put I cant get them into the collector all the way. Do they not go completely in just the first 1/4 in or so? The headers look good up top. I was even able to put the center bolt under the bike in fine.

Is there a trick to this that I am missing?

 

Re: Putting headers back into collector box and having issue

Interesting that you mention this - I just wrapped my headers and I'm going to have to put them back on probably this week sometime.

As I was taking this all apart, all I could think of is "how the heck am I going to get this back together the way it was..." hahaha!

 

The golden rule is to leave ALL bolts loose until assembly is complete (apologies if teaching you to suck eggs!) Removal of carbon from header ends and lots of WD40 helps as well!

 

Re: Putting headers back into collector box and having issue

Don't know if this will help, but I'll post a bunch of pics of my zorst and maybe you can line the parts up all loose like then snug things up as you go along.


Take note of the drain screws in picture #1 and the clamp position in #3
Hope this helps out. I have heard of guys taking the zorst apart then not remembering the re-assembly sequence.
Good luck!
Cheers, graham

 

If the Numbers are still readable ... they're stamped 1,2,3, & 4

2 Long ones: 1 & 4
Gooseneck lined-up with the collector

2 Short ones: 2 & 3
Same line-up.

Take a strip of 320 Grit Sanding 1-1/2 Inch wide.
Put the pipes in a padded vice.
"Shoe-shine" down to smooth, bare metal the NECKS that insert into the collector.

Go to SEARS or AutoZone and get a Tail-Pipe Expander.
Use the Tool to expand the ID of the Collector Inlets a HAIR.
Staple some 320 to a Wooden Dowel and DRESS the Collector Inlets.
Clean the Inlets and Header Necks with solvent.

COAT the dressed Inlets and Header Necks with Antiseize Lube.

Start the Neck into the Collector.
Line-up the Top.
Tap the Head Pipe home with a Heavy Rubber Mallet.

 

How about fitting some new pipe-to-collector gaskets?

 

Thank you guys I appreciate it. I should probably get a chance to mess with it some tonight. If all else fails will it be bad on the bike to run with no mufflers? just the collector box? I'm aware its loud that way.

 

It will cause a "lean" issue which could lead to engine damage or least worst it'll run like crap.

 

I took off my Mac 4-1 and took it just down a near by straight away and it was CONSIDERABLY faster. With just the headers to the collector on. Maxim-x does your bike have bolts in the holes by the headers at the bottom? Mine never has???

 

Yep, just like in the first pic. That is the original exhaust off the bike, I just assumed that they were either, drain holes or bungs for gas analysis.
And I am the original owner, when I got this bike it was still in the crate at Inglis Cycle waiting to be assembled, kinda like an ultra sound that they do for pregnant women. :roll:

 

Hahah Well that's good to know. I just know With the Mac 4-1 I had on it I could smash it to readline and never have it really scare me. I mean it was still quite quick faster than the Saab and Challenger that tried to race me lol. But with just the collector it was considerably quicker. I'm pretty sure I got wheel spin out of first completely by accident.

 

X2 with keeping things loose and new gaskets.

when i swapped my headers out i had a helluvatime gettin er back on there, just gotta stay calm and wiggle wiggle wiggle till everything goes into its happy place. forcing does nothing, obv.