Rebuild calipers/issues

Alright guys I rebuilt my Mc as well it now build up enough pressure but is still spongy/doesnt grab hard enough to stop quick. Also one of the two Calipers has a small leak could this just be the seals setting? Like a drop every now and then. Do i just need to bleed them more?

 

More bleeding required to remove sponginess. The leak is your first priority. ANY leak of any kind must be eliminated before further riding. You will need to pull that caliper apart again. There is no "bedding in" phase.

 

A drop of engine oil or coolant then I'd say ride it til it gets worse then fix it. Brakes, no way, those are the number one safety item on the bike, other than your head.
For example: out for a ride and the temp gauge goes up, stop, check, add water, go home. Keep riding pull in for gas take a look at the sight glass and notice the engine oil is low, add some oil, go home. Both have large fluid reserves. Keep riding down the highway, cager cuts you off, grab a handfull of brake and NO BRAKE! If your lucky, trailer the bike home, not lucky.......well, could be anything.

 

It seems to be coming from my brake line bolt on the caliper. Is what it seems like. I haven't taken it out of the neighborhood yet. I'm at work now ill check it when I get home tonight.

 

You did use NEW crush washers, one on each side of every union?

 

Maxim x - you're correct. I meant a brake leak of any kind, not any leak.

 

I'm with Fitz, new crush washers and proper torque are essential, as is the proper orientation of the lines.

 

I did use all new crush washers from chacal. Ill check the torque on them tonight.

 

New banjo bolts? If you re-used, you could have a buggered washer-mating surface.

And they do need to get properly torqued; my factory books (550, 650) say 19 ft/lb and 18.8 ft/lb. Since your bike uses the same sized bolts and fittings, you'll want to go just a hair under 19 ft/lb as well. In the spots that it's not easy to get to with a torque wrench, that's TIGHT tight if you're just using a combination or box wrench.

You may want to disassemble the offending union and examine all of the mating surfaces, and be sure a lump of debris didn't get trapped.

 

Got that, I was just using the other two as a reference to emphasize that a drop or two of engine oil or coolant can still be safe but brakes are a big "Do not operate til fixed" concern.
I agree with fitz, I have the Yammy service manual and my bike is the exact same as yours except for the 50cc tarriff crap. It says that all union bolts are to be tightened to 26 Nm (neuton metres) or 19 ft/lbs

 

I always anneal my old washers buy hanging them from a wire and heating them quickly with a torch until red hot. After they cool, the washers are soft and provide a good seal.

Its not that I'm cheap, but I am cheap.

Dave

 

Well after checking the bolts turned out they were WAY under torqued.... Tightened em up no leaks. Bled the right side caliper and got a MASSIVE air bubble out. Took her out and she will stop on a dime.

 

Excellent. Now be sure and do a "re-bleed" (both sides) after a couple hundred miles and a few "heat cycles." You WILL get a couple more bubbles.

 

I love a good success story!

 

Thank you for the heads up Bigfitz!