Recently bought an '82 xj750 seca off craigslist

She runs great, and all the lights and signals work but I haven't been able to test drive her because when I arrived the brakes were seized. But for $500 even I thought it worth the investment.
Once I got her back to the house I started embarking on a solution to the brake issue. After a bit me and my friend put her on the center stand and went through the gears to make sure the brakes hadn't prevented us from detecting an issue. Went through the gears fine. Got in touch with Chacal and ordered caliper rebuild kits. Also ordered new stainless steel hoses. Took apart the master cylinder cleaned out all the mayo and all the rubber was still supple and seemed in good condition so i'm holding off on that rebuild kit. I'm currently in the process of refilling my brake lines and am having difficulty. I've been reading here and there about techniques and tricks but I'm still having issues. I figured if I asked the questions in my own topic I might have better luck.
I was wondering if someone could give me a run down on the bleeding process and then go from there. I'm not sure if the anti-dive is whats giving me trouble seeing as how I haven't dismantled them. Sorry for the book ^ And thanks in advance.

 

After a little dis-assembly. The missing parts were on it when I bought it.

 

I'd go ahead and install the rebuild kit. You've already done the vast majority of the work; why make yourself do it again later?

 

And they are spec'd to be rebuilt every 4 years. I agree with k-moe, given the royal pain in the @$$ that is the 750 seca front brake system is, it's best to just do it right and not have to think about it for a long time.

 

What about the master cylinder reassembly? Any idea of which way the seal mounts to the piston... The seal is a "V" does the bottom of the V point down or up?

 

The open part of the V always points toward the high pressure side. As for bleeding, the only thing that worked for me was about 2hrs and lots of patience: crack the bleeder open, squeeze the brake, close the bleeder, release the brake lever. Repeat.

 

First off, unless you're blocking off the anti-dive units (or removing them altogether) they need to come apart and get thoroughly cleaned, new o-rings and seals, etc., or they'll just pollute your new brake fluid.

Yamaha brakes are a ringtailed PIA to bleed, especially after being filled from dry. It's not you, it's happened to every single one of us, often more than once. Myself included. Search the forum, you'll find many good answers. No matter which method you use, it will be a pain, honest.

Because of this, REBUILD the M/C now. You only want to go through this once, trust me. I did one brake system a component at a time, and learned my lesson. You only want to go through the bleeding process once.

 

Here is the bleeding process I use, I'm super lazy and cheap, so it's the easiest free-est way.

Fill master cylinder reservoir with new Dot-3, keep the bottle at hand, you'll need to add some. Open bleed valve on far caliper, pump brake until fluid comes out there. (into a bucket or old fluid bottle or whatever) If you have a clear tube to put on nipple it helps, but not mandatory. Close nipple, pump brake, hold lever back, open nipple, some air should come out, close nipple, repeat. Till you can open nipple and pump just fluid out. Repeat for near caliper. (relative to master) If this is non-bar mount master, it probably doesn't matter which you start with.

DON'T let the level in reservoir get too low, air will get in there.

Now, after some pumping, cracking open of nipples, pumping out fluid, and so on, you should have at least a little resistance at the lever. Here is my main tip. Bungee cord the lever back, and LEAVE it overnight. Air will creep out of lines. Works every time for me, but my MC is on the bars. YMMV

 

Spazzer,

Brake bleeding...Ahhhhhhhh! I bought a small brake bleeding kit from Autozone. It is a small plastic bottle with a magnet that will stick to your front fender. Open, squeeze, close and refilled for about a hour. Then I refilled the reservoir, stuck a empty plastic coffee jug under the caliper end and went to bed. The next morning I opened, squeezed, closed and refilled until there were no air bubbles. Yep, it's a PIA but you'll be glad you did it.

Gary

 

Thanks everyone for the feed back! Sorry for the late thanks, the bike got put on the back burner for a bit and I hadn't till recently figured out how to quickly find posts that I had made previously.

 

I gave up and purchased the brake bleading tool from chacal. Works good but $50 as I recall.

 

I got this and did my brakes in about 1 1/2 hours with no hassle. just don't let the MC go dry!

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-blee ... 69328.html

Also, rebuild the MC and anti-dive now... or you are gonna get REAL GOOD at bleeding brakes

 

I am SO stealing that.