The Wild and Woolly Adventures of a Bike Repair Noob

I've started this thread to document and share my struggles and triumphs as I embark upon the path to bike repair enlightenment.

I may laugh, I may cry, I may seek advice (OK, OK...I am POSITIVE I'll need some guidance), and maybe, just maybe, even I might be able to share some wisdom someday.

The journey may be harrowing and fraught with sheer terror as I navigate into these uncharted waters; but I am confident that with you all by my side and with the prospect of untold riches, fame and glory...Well, at least with the prospect of a running bike I shall stay motivated and refreshed and able to carry on 'till the end of the road (or to the beginning of the road at the end of the driveway depending on how you look at it).

So, with the words of Kobi Yamada, "Sometimes you just have to take the leap and build your wings on the way down", here we go!

 

Dude; I'm just glad you are wise enough after all to not ride it in its current configuration. I owe you an apology for thinking that you might and landing a bit hard as a result.

We've lost at least two forum members in the last three years by crashing their XJs.

I've lost an even half-dozen good friends (including one of the aforementioned forum members) to motorcycle crashes over the past 40+ years; so yes, I'm a bit of a "safety Nazi." (I've also been riding on the street since 1968 and I'm still alive so maybe I'm doing at least something right.)

You'll figure out soon enough that those tires and the XJ powerband don't mix. Hopefully, you'll only scare yourself.

Meanwhile, let's not trust Mr. Motorcyle Expert PO. Check your valve clearances; that'll give you a REAL good idea of how much this guy knew.

An "airhead" (air cooled motor, not you) is an airhead; have at it: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html and Part Deux: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

They gotta be in spec before you can adjust the carbs anyway. Get back to us with questions.

 

Yesterday I setup my workbench that will be solely dedicated to my bike repair endeavours (well, two saw horses and a sheet of plywood; but dedicated nonetheless). Then I had a beer. Ahh, I can already feel the bike practically repairing itself!

Note the repair manual just screaming to be used and abused all bound up with zip ties and whatnot! I've discovered that it likes it when I talk dirty to it. It "literarily" started curling its foot-notes in "unbound" passion when I said to it, "Don't worry baby...I'm gonna' grease you up really nice". What a naughty little manual.

 

NOW you're on the true path.

Feel free to ask questions; and look at my valve adjustment tutorial. The pics in the book don't quite cut it, which is why I did the piece.

The factory manual assumes you're already a trained, Yamaha dealership mechanic. So like I said, feel free to ask for clarifications or stuff that simply isn't covered.

There's quite a bit of it.

 

Today, I installed the center stand. That spring was kinda tough at first; but then brain over brawn (or leverage over muscle at least) prevailed.

I hooked one end of the spring onto its mount point on the center stand. Then, I slipped a box wrench over the hook on the other end of the spring and leveraged the wrench up and over the horizontal mounting post (effectively pulling the spring with it) and it hooked right in place. Piece of cake and my first of many (I hope) small victories with this bike.

8O Ejpt 1
:twisted: Bike Demons 0


Let me entice you back tomorrow with spellbinding pics of the almighty center stand that I tricked into practically mounting itself!!! (I had falsely promised that it could spend the rest of its days "leaning on the job" like a lazy side stand (instead of holding up the bike like the Charles Atlas that it is) if it would only kindly allow me to put it back under the frame. You know what? My fork-ed tongue deceit worked! It went right after that carrot like the dumb ox that it is! HAHAHA! Joke's on you center stand!)

 

Thanks bigfitz52. I owe you an apology too for me being sharp with my response. I really do appreciate the concern. Truly. I know you and everyone else on this amazing forum only want the members to be safe while enjoying their bikes. I'm saddened to hear about the friends that you've lost and can see why you are so passionate about safety.

Ya, those tires aren't the greatest for the street, I know. They are however brand new. The bike did come with a gently used street front tire that I was thinking of mounting. We'll see. I'm used to riding very aggressive enduro tires on the street as was on my previous bike; but then again, it was a small bike.

I had read through your tutorial previously! Great piece btw! You certainly demystified it. Presented it in a way that made it easy to follow. PO said he had set the valve clearances. I may opt to do it. I suppose that it's a good way to learn about the bike if nothing else.

 

That was my point. So lets find out-- check them yourself. It's something you'll need to do every 5000 miles anyway, so no time like the present to get your feet wet. You'll want to check before trying to sync the carbs, so---

If you find a whole bunch out of spec, then you'll have a little more insight into your PO.

One of mine told me that the 5+ year old battery in the bike was "brand new this season" when I bought it.

 

Alright bigfitz, you talked me into it! I'm gonna' pull the valve covers! I need to get that tank off and drain the old gas out of it. I'll be turning some bolts tonight!

First thing's first though. Behold! The center stand!

 

This quick tutorial worked great!

gas tank removal on 1982 650 Seca

I don't know it there's supposed to be some lever to lift the seat; but it took a minute to just get the seat pan off! Guess what? No clip!



I put an old shop rag down just in case gas was going to spew forth.



Easier than I thought...Came off without a hitch...Even the lines slid off easily without needing to break their seals...Nice!



Now it's time for the next phase in this project! A beer!

 

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm beer......

Keep the pics coming, always fun to see what others are doing.

Got a load of work to do to my baby max over the winter as well
(Fuel cock rebuild, and my gauge cluster needs work, 2 burnt out bulbs and a whiney tach gear...for starters)

You've come to the right spot, the collective knowledge in here is invauable to a good resto

 

+1 on the Sierra Nevada! Good stuff.

 

PO removed the entire gauge cluster...Got it all in a box....Was thinking of at least putting the speedo back on (as in the gauge, not the swim-wear) to keep my nose clean with the popo and yes, SN is delicious!

 

This guy has some useful little tips for the new and looking to learn.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3gxT57eoDE
Nice lines on your bike,I think you will be VERY surprised how much more power than your 125 it has.

 

Great log and pictures man, I am on the same boat, working on a bike that a friend gave me. Yours looks in great shape compared to what I am starting with.

 

Yeah, that video referenced above... Check that guy out, go through his whole channel. He's a great guy, too--he offered to host me when I passed through Cali, and he and his wife were just good people. Guy knows his stuff.

 

Holy smokes!!! Between bigfitz's write-up and this video, I'll have those valves adjusted in no time! Thanks for sharing gunnabuild! EXTREMELY informative!!!

Can't wait to check out his other vids fintip. I chuckled about his advice on using the wife's tweezers and how true it would be too, lol!

Best wishes on your Seca project ecologito! Would love to see some pics! What are you going to do to it?

 

Rain...ugh...Can't very well work outside (bike is under waterproof tarps and shrouds at the moment *cringe) and now it's dark out and the exterior lighting sucks ...Oh well, at least I can enjoy a Sierra Nevada (no, I'm not sponsoring them...It's just a great beer that reminds me of home in Northern Cali).

So what can I do...What can I do...Wait!!! I GOT IT!!!

HANG ON EVERYONE!!! I'LL BE RIGHT BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THIS IS GONNA' BE GREAT!!!

 

As long as we're back to the Sierra Nevada have you tried their Kellerweis?

 

I am working on the driveway as well and it stinks that it gets dark so early. It rained here today as well so not much done, so far everything I have done is under the bug light outside and with the help of my handy 3d maglight. The neighbors may think that I am stealing bike parts since I have been working at 3:30 am or 11:30 at night.

The other morning I came out and was surprised at my progress since I can't see past the light beam.

This weekend I should be able to work on it with day light for a change

 

OK! I'm back everyone and rain be damned!!! If I can't go outside to work in the weather, then I'll just bring the bike inside!

Behold! My new motorcycle repair shop!!!

Well, that's enough work for today...Now where did I put that beer...

 

I haven't, although I've never met a hefe I didn't like

Are they good? Of course they're good! It's SN!

 

Wow! That's dedication! I barely trust myself to work on a bike in the daytime let alone under mag beam, lol! Have you thought about making some kind of make-shift shelter for it? I thought about constructing some PVC frame with tarps and lighting; but as you can see, I just found a solution!

 

This is my previous (and first) bike I traded for my XJ. She was a great bike and had quite a bit of "oomph" for a little 125cc. I do miss her forgiving suspension and nimble maneuverability.

"May your knobbies always be filled with mud dear friend...I shall always remember you fondly...Except that time you launched me head-long through that barbed-wire fence! What the F*#% were you thinking?!?!...Anyhow, happy trails love...Happy trails..."

 

GOOD GOD! Looking at the picture right now and reminiscing about my old bike just made me realize how absolutely MASSIVE my XJ's engine is compared to it!!!

 

Yea but now (or soon) you will be able to hit the freeway and not feel like a potato chip in a blender!

Concerning your makeshift garage..well I must say you are dedicated and I submit that XJ has found a friend. There are living animals I wouldn't let in my house, of course i would never leave my XJ outside EVER! But I am lucky to finally have a garage-word of warning as soon as you get one you will begin to fill it with projects. Trust me it happens.

If your anything like me when your working, your going to need a bigger tarp or something else to protect your flooring.

My 200cc enduro (dual sport these days) was great fun! It was pretty fast to 65mph but after that it took a while to hit it's top end of 80mph. Of course on it I could launch twenty feet in the air, wheelie all day long, and have the bike land on me and get up and ride home. Probably shouldn't have tried that triple jump

With a bigger bike and with proper tires, proper suspension, and proper technique-my 550 is imminently safer on public roads, and I can whip it around no problem, the brakes are better, torque way better, being seen (better), being heard (better), being respected (depends but usually better). All bikes are fun in their own way though.

 

Ahhh...If only my little 125 was bigger, I could have terrified myself on the super slab...I had to always stay on the highways and byways since she rarely ever saw 65 mph (and that was only during fortunate times when the air was cool, the wind was at my back and the road declining).

I imagine my entire place will be draped in tarps by the time I'm done with her :lol:

I am awaiting true freedom to travel ANYWHERE I want to go on two wheels. I felt like I lived on an island with my old bike; reduced to stop & go traffic and skulking across back-country roads.

As far as respect, I'm not sure if I was ever truly taken seriously; but I always got waves from most every passing motorcyclist; cruiser and sport alike. That's what I like about bikes (at least from my inexperienced point of view). Whether you're looked upon as a brother or that weird distant cousin, everyone on a motorcycle is part of the family in some form or another.

 

Alright. So I spent this evening working on music and I'm ready to pull the valve covers! I'm going to consult bigfitz's tutorial one last time before I start cranking hexes! Pictures and a full report to follow!


If you'd like, you can check out my music at the following link:

Ejpt's Music Page

 

Alrighty. So I pulled my valve covers and the ignition cover. Here is the pictorial odyssey of the event!



Behold! The valve cover! (Looks foreboding doesn't it?!)




Before I can remove it we'll have to get through that octopus of spark plug wires. They were conveniently numbered 1-4. Easy as pie and I can be thankful it's not a 12 cylinder.

I was feeling rather festive and decided to lasso those unruly wires together with Christmas ribbon complete with a bow of good cheer and curled ends for added jolliness.



Upon closer inspection of this black cover of mystery, all that was separating me from victory was a few measly hex bolts...pffft! Mere child's play when I have the power of the "Lefty Loosey" mantra on my side! I unscrewed them a little at a time in a star pattern to prevent any undue stress on the gasket.




The inner bolts were removed and came out with ease. I arranged them on my workbench so that I could put them back in the exact holes from whence they came. After unscrewing the outer bolts completely, they were still held fast to the cover my some great unexplained force!




The valve cover came off with ease (the gasket is brand new as was recently installed by the PO).




One snug fitting bit is worth two easy-outs.




I removed these bolts a little at a time as well (in a star pattern to prevent any possible stresses). The ignition cover gasket has some superficial cracks around the bolt holes. Thankfully, it won't affect the water-tightness of it.




So there you have it folks. Tomorrow, I must journey far and wide in search of the elusive feeler gauge. Perhaps I'll cross paths with a hemostat too and come back to the garage to gap and pull those shimmys!

 

Start with your local NAPA store. They probably have a K-D Tools display, and may have the K-D 2274 metric feeler in stock.

The bolts are being held in the cover by the "donuts" on them. Pull one out and examine it closely. The bolt itself has a stop collar to prevent overtightening. The rubber/metal composite "donuts" are what actually press the cover down against the head/gasket. When the 'donuts' become compressed and baked hard, they don't push the cover down like they should, and even a NEW gasket will leak.

(Something to keep in mind.)

 

I see now. Thanks bigfitz...I'll definitely be pulling those donuts off this morning with my coffee. I imagine chacal will carry these if I need new ones?

 

It's probably not a matter of "if." Compare yours to the pic.

You have to destroy them to remove them. Once you replace your gasket once and use new donuts, the whole assembly can be removed/replaced many times over. POs often replace the gasket, but ignore the donuts and wonder why it leaks. That's when stripped bolt holes happen.

And of course Len has them.

 

The donuts seemed OK...Not brand spankin' new; but seemed passable...I will be ordering new donuts soon along with a jet kit. First though, I need to get my hands on some shims.

Question:

On this video, a guy stuck a zip tie down into the combustion chamber to catch the tip of the valve stem. In essence, negating the need for a shim tool.

How safe is this procedure? Last thing I want to do have to rip the motor apart to extract a piece of plastic.

 

Ejpt, I don't know if you read the second of Fitz's posts for the valve adjustment and it covered both methods.

Here's the link.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... ethod.html

Hope that helps.

 

That process is covered here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html a hunk of #12 solid copper insulted house wire works quite well and is in no danger of losing its "tip" or getting lost in the combustion chamber.

 

ahh, ok, I missed that part I guess...I opted for a heavy-duty zip tie, doubled-over and taped...

Clearances noted...now just trying to get the shims out...Kind of a bear so far...Consulting fitz's tutorial again.

 

Just go slow and follow fitz's tutorial to the letter. You can do it.

 

I'm glad I checked as this has been a valuable learning experience.

The shims are all to spec except for the number 2 cylinder.
The exhaust valve clearance is 0.15mm with the feeler gauge fitting in nice and snug.
The book says I should throw in a 245 whereas it currently has a 250 (which is fine for a 0.16mm gap but not 0.15mm.

Thoughts or comments on this?


Anyhow, here are some pics of my little soiree.



Can you feel me?





My chosen weapons for this battle.





"Rata-tat-tat" as I bowed to the Eastern sun and drove those magnetic demons back to the North Pole.





The zip trick seemed dubious at first; but in the end, it worked out great!





"A thing of beauty is a joy forever"...and covered in oil too!





Here is the data I collected:


All intake shims are 275

All exhaust shims are 250



#1 Cylinder:

Intake: 0.13mm (0.005") - Feeler gauge fit tight

Exhaust: 0.18mm (0.007") - Feeler gauge fit tight


#2 Cylinder:

Intake: 0.15mm (0.006") - Feeler gauge fit neither tight or loose

Exhaust: 0.15mm (0.006") - Feeler gauge fit tight


#3 Cylinder:

Intake: 0.10mm (0.004") - Feeler gauge fit loose

Exhaust: 0.18mm (0.007") - Feeler gauge fit tight


#4 Cylinder:

Intake: 0.13mm (0.005") - Feeler gauge fit tight

Exhaust: 0.20mm (0.008") - Feeler gauge fit tight

 

#2 exhaust does need a one-size smaller shim;

and #3 intake just might (.010mm is not in spec.; .015mm would be.) so it's a case of HOW loose or tight your "American" gauge was at .004".

If you end up leaving #3 intake as is, then keep an eye on it for next time.

 

You're right fitz. #3 is NOT in spec. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. Yes, I'll have to replace both.

 

Well, I've been a bit busy with doing some maintenance things on my car and although exciting, not worthy of blogging about.

Great news however! I just placed a shim order with Len and I'll have pictures up as soon as I get to installing them!

Anyhow, happy holidays everyone!

 

Ejpt I just got mine measured and in the process of placing my order, like you said before it seems like we are doing similar jobs on our bikes.

You can see the numbers I got on my thread, a lot of mine were out of spec so I will be doing quite a bit of shim replacing. In the meantime I am hovering the bay looking for the missing parts on this bike.

Next step is the carbs..."suspense music" tahn tahn tahhnnnnn!!!

Happy Holidays to you too

 

Heya ecologito! I'll be doing the same thing. After I get those shims installed, the next step is to find out what my carb issues are. I imagine that it's the fault of those pesky pods...That's why I've been pouring over as much data as I can get my hands on about carb intakes.

I believe I've decided on making velocity stacks that will inset into a manifold so that all three carbs can share the same "atmospheric pressure". The pods will be inset into some kind of a 3-sided shroud to keep it out of the weather in general. I'm thinking of paring it down to two pods and mounting them on the manifold instead of directly on the stacks themselves...We'll see. Still more research to be done.

Best wishes on your bike bro!

 

You will need:

"Shape"
A Column of Air entering the Intake Horn swiftly.
Not the Vortex allowed by naked Pods.

Increased Main Air Supplied
Let Intake Air flow AT the Atmosphere Vent. Not across it.

Increased Main Air Holes in the Main Nozzles (Emulsion Tubes)
Larger Holes
Increase the Flow of Air dragging-up Main Jet Fuel

Faster Rising of the Diaphragm Pistons
Increase the Diameter of the Vent Hole drilled at the bottom of the Diaphragm Piston.

Polish the Diaphragm Piston Bores.
Insure that the Diaphragm Pistons rise quickly when the Throttles are opened.

Insure that Atmosphere is and remains present to supply Main Air ti the E-Tubes and allow the Diaphragm Rubber to collapse upon the decrease of pressure inside the Piston and Rubber.

 

Hmm. I coulda swore you have an XJ.

Take a close look at the INSIDE CONTOURS of an original airbox-to-carb rubber boot. Your answer is right there.

 

Thanks to both Rick and Fitz for your wisdom. Yes, 3 carbs...Well, I figured that since I was a relatively new rider, I would remove one of the carbs so that I would have only 75% of the powerband and thus, keep myself out of trouble. Same reason why I'm installing a new set of training wheels and an orange bicycle safety flag.

Speaking of installing, Len's shims came in (and very quick at a fair price I might add). Sorry that I have no pics of the installation; but I'm on vacation at the moment and had just enough time to throw them in. Next step is going to be constructing my air intake system. Then, I'll fiddle with re-jetting.
.
Sadly, I found no pics online to show me the intake boots

I'll post pics when when I pull the carbs...all 4 of them!

 

Here are pics I took of the intakes. The first is one with a rubber plumbing joint fitted over the rear of the carb to act as a carb to airbox boot. I was trying to find a cheap way out of buying new, supple air box boots:



Had tuning issues, so then I gave up and ordered the proper part.

 

That's exactly what I was referring to. Upon close inspection, you'll see that the original airbox-to-carb boots are really velocity stacks on the inside, not just straight tubes. They don't end at the airbox flange, they continue past into the airbox with the "bell" ends of the stacks. (Velocity stacks don't have to be metal.)

They only look like simple rubber tubes.

 

Also note, in the pic, how the OEM boots actually mate with the carb opening. The metal rim of the carb opening is completely covered. If PODS or make-shift boots simply fit over the carb opening, and don't have a groove cut in to make the smooth transition like the OEM boot, you'll get turbulence right at the edge carb opening. Note how all of the air jets and air to the diaphragm/hat are at the edge of the carb opening, where they will be affected by the extra turbulence.

 

Did you look into repairing the old boots? Or did your bike come with pods?

Repairing the old boots with a bicycle innertube and some rtv

 

Wow ManBot!!! Extremely informative! I as well had been eyeing those rubber joints at Lowes. I was wondering myself how the turbulence at the carb lip would affect performance. You answered my question! Thank you so much!

I didn't realize that the original boots were in essence, velocity stacks bigfitz. I'm going to check with Len and see if he has those boots for sale.

As far as the original boots mtnbikecrazy, they are gone with the wind...My bike only came with pods


In other news though, I have some exciting, uh, news!

I won a free set of Wave Rotors from GalferUSA.com that I'll install as soon as I rebuild my front brakes and order some braided hoses. I'll post pics as soon as I get them in!

Speaking of brake lines, I know some of you have switched to SS tubing. What do you think of them compared to SS braided lines? Thoughts? Suggestions?

Again, thank you everyone for helping me out with your words of wisdom! You have no idea how much I appreciate the input!