The Wild and Woolly Adventures of a Bike Repair Noob

Now that I started looking deeper at Galfer's wave rotors, it seems that they may not make them for the XJ700!?

Could I be wrong?

Are there any other bikes out there which have the same bolt pattern at the XJ700N?

I hate it when you get something for free just to lose it for free...

 

When we talk about "stainless lines" we mean brake lines with braided stainless sheathing; not solid tubing.

You can get them with a colored outer sheath over the SS; besides clear and black they come in a variety of colors. They're a major upgrade over the stock rubber lines.

Here's an example of the black lines, on my '81; if you look closely you can see the braiding:




In regard to rotors, there is more to it than just the bolt pattern. There are different offsets between the hub and the braking surface, plus overall diameter to be concerned with.

I'll try to do some cross-referencing for you; maybe find a newer bike that uses similarly-dimensioned rotors that Galfer might list.

 

Ahh, ok. Thanks for clarifying the "SS" confusion for me and for posting that lovely pic fitz! I LOVE the look of the braided lines and I've heard that the "feel" and response is far superior over non-sheathed ones.

I really appreciate you looking into those rotors for me fitz. I didn't expect anyone to go to such lengths to help me out and I'm very grateful for the help.

I came across this video here in which a guy put on a slotted rotor from a Yamaha Radian onto his XJ700. I can't tell if Galfer makes them for the Radian either though

 

Here's Galfer's catalog too if it will help:

http://www.galferusa.com/catalog/

 

That was easier than I thought, thanks to EBC's application chart.

Other, newer Yamahas that use the same dimension rotors:

Virago 700, '84~'87
Virago 750, '88~'94 NOT later than '94.
YX600 Radian, '86~'90
FZX700 Fazer, '86~'87
FJ/FZ600, '84~'88 only; no later.
XV1100, '86~'97 (NOT XVS, V-Star or V-Star Custom)

See if Galfer lists any of these.

 

HOLY CRAP FITZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You truly are a wizard!!!

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU

I'm going to check your list against their catalog!!!

 

Looks like this is the only one they had from the list:

It's for an FZ600 (1986-1988)



Think it will fit?

HUGE thanks again to ya' fitz!!!

 

OK, so I'm about to lay down some cash for a new set of air cleaner joints. As per the wonderful responses, it sounds like I'll need actual OEM joints vs constructing them myself.

If I make my own, then it would be very difficult to cover the carb lip (which seems to cause turbulence). I was originally going to install THESE as velocity stacks. I think they would have worked great; but again, would have left the carb "lip" exposed.

Is the covering of that lip really all that important? I just wanted to be explicitly clear on the subject before I shell out the $40 vs the $4 that it would cost to make my own.

Once again, thank you all!

 

Covering the carb lip is very important. Unmatched junctions introduce turbulence that will effect proper fueling, particularly with a CV carb. THink about how much effort went into designing the carb boots in the first place. Would Yamaha have spent the time and money on making the carb boots fit flush if covering the lip didn't matter?

 

Good point k-moe and thanks for the reply. I suppose that Yamaha spent the money, time and resources figuring out the best approach for this bike so that I wouldn't have to.

OK. Going to fork out my hard-won dough and spring for a shiny new set of air cleaner joints!

I'm thinking of taking a length of fat PVC pipe (capped at both ends) and making an airbox out of it. I'll have to do some research on the best approach.

Also, I'm trying to figure out a way that I can adjust the airflow into the box so that I can fine-tune things even more. Perhaps some kind of gate or valve...Not sure yet.

I was contemplating creating a ram air funnel at the front under the tank. From there, I would route some flexible exhaust tubing to a PVC pipe housing that would contain a pod filter connected to the airbox. The vision that I have for the look of it would be sick; but I'm not sure if it's a wise idea. I'm not sure if the CV carbs would appreciate the slight and varying pressure boost that a ram air would provide.

Any thoughts on this?

 

........ find a used airbox.......

 

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/ssd/mcy/3542679563.html

 

Now that I've researched more, I don't think the ram air thing will be good for our sensitive little carbs. Oh well, it was just an idea.

However, if I do get an OEM airbox, I have no idea how I'm going to cram it in. Thanks for the tips and links guys. I'm still leaning towards making something that will not only be functional; but keep with the bobbed look.

 

You can keep "The Bobbed Look" and still run a stock Airbox.

There was a fellow from Maine that preferred the "Naked" look.
He mounted the Regulator, Solenoid, Ignitor, Fuses and a couple of Relays INSIDE the Airbox.

Then, he had the exposed sides of the Airbox decorated with airbrushing too make it look like sheet metal with the WW2 Insignia painted on Fighter Planes.

http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en ... 3,s:0,i:93

 

Thanks Rick.

I just PM''ed chacal about a new set of aircleaner joints. Hopefully, I get them in soon and then I can start messing about with an airbox.

Ecologito sent me a link (thanks again bro) for a Seca airbox for sale. Do you think the airbox from a different XJ style bike will suffice on my 700? I'm still leaning just to make my own for that custom look. Although I have no idea on the cubic airspace the stock airbox provides.

 

+1

 

^+2

Gary

 

Will this airbox work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160846057770&item=160846057770&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466

 

Check this out from a fellow forum user:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=41130.html

 

Thanks Maxim-X!!!

I priced out a new set of air cleaner joints. They're like 80 bucks which is cheap considering that chacal actually makes them in his shop and it seems that he's the world's only providers of these things!

As good of a price as they are for a custom-made set of joint boots, 80 bucks is still 80 bucks and about twice over budget for what I had in mind...Sigh. I PM'ed maxim6 to see how much he's asking for his assembly. If that doesn't work, them I'm going to fabricate my own intake system and pray that it works, lol!

 

So, I took the plunge and ordered a set of what will pass for velocity stacks. I'm going to construct my own air box since those funny little air cleaner joints seem in short supply and as much as I'd like to, can't justify spending the cash on chacal's custom ones.

I'll take pics and keep you all up to date as soon as I get them in.

 

Howdy all.

I haven't constructed the air box yet; but I tested out my "velocity stacks" tonight with a little 91 octane and some Lucas miracle juice in the tank.

There was no idle improvement until I decided to fidget with the idle screw. Voila! It will actually idle without cutting out and the throttle response is quick and doesn't lag or bog down.

Question though:

I killed it mid-idle and did a plug check. Here is what they look like:

#1 Mostly dry/black
#2 Mostly dry/black
#3 Mostly wet/black
#4 Mostly wet/black

The other thing, is that my carbs are now leaking fuel. Now, I did have it on prime at first and opened the throttle while trying to start it until I realized (thanks to the forum) that I have a choke lever (the controls are long gone). In my excitement to test fire the engine, I had completely forgotten about that.

After I choked it, it fired right up. I'm wondering if it's normal for the carbs to leak since I tried starting it many times before I choked it and made the mistake of opening the throttle and messing around between prime and "on".

Any thoughts on the plugs as well?

Oh yes. Another thing. Every once in a while while revving it up, it would backfire (although increasing the idle seemed to eliminate most of the backfiring while revving).

I'm not sure if I gave you guys enough info to help diagnose the next step. Please let me know if I can provide any more info.

Thanks everyone!

-Erik

 

Something else interesting to note:

#1 and #4 header pipes aren't hot although they are both getting spark.

#2 and #3 header pipes are hot.


The right side exhaust pipe seems to be blowing clean...The left side is blowing a little wet.

 

Have you service your carbs? I am in the process of replacing the 650 engine on my seca with a 750 engine. When I open the carbs to clean them I found all sorts of gunk, two float valves were frozen shut, one float post was broken. I am surprised the previous owner says it ran fine.

I have been reading a lot around here and it seems like it is hard to fine tune your with with the stock setup so it is almost impossible to do so with mods like pods. It becomes a guessing game/trial and error.

 

Thanks ecologito,

The PO has cleaned and synced the carbs before I got it. I'm thinking since I had opened the throttle while on prime, that it flooded the carbs...Or I have a float stuck perhaps. I'm wondering if I should just drain the carbs and see what happens?

I read about you getting a new engine! That's awesome!

I imagine I'll have to pull the rack and tear it apart. I hope I can isolate the leakage problem before I do that though.

 

Even on prime, your carbs wouldn't have gotten flooded if the floats have worked properly.

 

If the carbs were flooded I would check two things, one make sure that the petcock works properly. The other one will be the cab floats and needles. You should at least remove the bowls and check the floats and you will be able to inspect visually the jets and make sure that they are clean. Obviously something is not right.

 

One important thing to check is your oil right now. Yep, oil. If your carbs were leaking these bikes have a reputation for letting gas through the carbs and running down inside the cylinder. This can not only wash away the oil that lubes the piston, but can also contaminate the oil in the pan. Simple check is to look at the sight glass while it's on the centre stand (when cold/cool) to see if it's over full. You can also unscrew your oil filler cap and take a good sniff, if there is any smell of gas fix the carb problem then change the oil before you start and run the engine again. Running the bike with gas in the oil can/will lead to total engine failure or at least serious damage.

 

No perhaps about it; either stuck or mis-adjusted. If your floats are operating correctly, it shouldn't matter if it's on PRI or not.

I would not trust the story the PO told you about the carbs.

 

Hi Ejpt, trust fitz and maxim-x, you need carb work before the air box issue. 2 wet plugs is float issue, and the black ones are off - running rich.

A PO could have cleaned the carbs, but so long ago it needs it again.

And you could have gas in the oil - pull the fill cap and smell - you'll know. If so, give it a couple oil changes to clear it out.

See here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... stuck.html

 

Thanks for the responses everyone! I seriously don't know what I'd do without you folks!

Gave the oil a "whiff" test; although the oil window already told me what had happened. A crank case full of gas. Oh well, I suppose the engine needed it to remove 38,000 miles of gunk buildup!

So, I guess the next step is to remove the carb bowls and look at the floats? Or should I just pull the rack and get down to business? (There's some loose emulsion tubes that I need to re-seat anyhow).

Any thoughts?

Thanks again everyone for supporting me in my plight.

-Erik

 

Ejpt,

What makes you think you have loose emulsion tubes? The main fuel jets screw into the emulsion tubes from the bottom and hold them in place.

Confession: Been here 1-1/2 yrs and had done everything except the shaft seals. Just completed entire rack tear down including shaft and fuel seals. Maaaaan, what a difference. Hope this helps.

Gary

 

The PO suggested that I "set" the tubes with solder since he loosened them when he was torquing down on the jets. After reading up on the tubes, it seems that using a blunt object to hold them steady while I set the jets should allow them to be held fast.

Confession: The only carbs I've ever opened up were on a lawn mower.

 

I think you can learn this, honest.

You don't go soldering on anything in the carbs; anybody giving that advice is simply way off base.

If the emulsion tubes are loose, chances are you're missing a washer, or the guy was a complete nimnul.

Go to the supermarket. Get a couple of those "disposable" aluminum baking pans, and a couple of ice cube trays.

Stop by the hardware store. Pick up some masking tape, a Sharpie, and some batteries for your camera.

Pull the rack and get serious. You're SO close; just dig in. You "weathered" valve adjustments; this is only about 3 times more complicated, honest. You wanna be a motorcycle mechanic, or just a "wannabe?" (I already know the answer.)

Mikunis or Hitachis?

 

this is exactly what i am going through right now . i have carb rebuild kits , petcock rebuild kit . all new rubber intake boots , gaskets ,2 sets of donar carbs plus one set on bike . i guess if i dont tear into it i will just keep draining out gas from crank case . can i go to harbor freight and buy kroil or do i have to special order it ? i M little worried removing the rubber boots from case using the liquid wrench i have on my bench . was hoping just fixing petcock would fix this but reading up a few posts i see prime or on , if i have gas in oil i have a bad float . can i mix match floats from doner carbs ?? will it make it hard to tune ??

 

Kroil isn't available over the counter, it's the real deal. Even Harbor only sells it online, and you'll need to make up a Company Name.

Once you do anything with the floats, you need to wet-set the float levels, and be as precise about it as possible. That is covered here: http://www.xj4ever.com/setting%20fuel%20levels.pdf

You are correct about your floats. If they are functioning properly, you could leave the bike on "PRI" for a week with nothing bad happening (I've done it; not recommended, but I'm getting old.)

You need to fix it. To do that without being frustrated to tears, you'll need to be careful, precise, and patient.

It's well worth it. Don't make me post a pic.

 

How is it that you seem to always hold the power to coax me into "the next step" fitz? You're a damn fine motivational speaker for sure. OK. Leaking carbs be damned and full speed ahead!!! I'm gonna' take the plunge.

Hitachis...99% sure. I'll check on them.

As far as the ice trays, is that for the Tom Collins of triumph or the Jim Jones of failure when I'm through? :lol:

Good luck on your rebuild Elk! I'll share in detail the journey that is ahead of me. Please post yours as well...Perhaps we can learn a thing or two from each other with the XJ community as our guide.

 

...save a buck on the ice cube trays and steal one of your Mums muffin trays. There is more room for parts and Mums will forgive anything, not so much with the wife. :roll: :roll:

 

Ice cube trays or muffin tins, they're for sorting and keeping track of small parts. You want to keep each carbs' bits with that carb; do NOT play mixy-match. The masking tape and Sharpie are for labeling.

 

The "plunge" is what scares the be-jesus out of most. Just remember...organization is key. Do one carb at a time; by the time you finish you will know the hats to the drain plugs and everything in between. You will also start to understand a lot of how and why the carbs function the way they do which will help you a great deal with trouble shooting later.

Gary

 

From one newbie to another I can say that it seems to be soooo daunting at first, but once you say to yourself that your gonna do it and dig in headfirst. No problem. I had no mechanical experience when I bought my max, most I had ever done was oil changes on the car. Carbs scared the hell out of me. But I just started turnin the screwdriver and taking alot of pictures and with alittle help from the guys on here (thanks again hogfiddles!!!), tada, I had the rack broken and carbs soaking in carb cleaner. Everything easily was put back together and just a few days ago I got the float levels set and soon they will be back on the bike so we can see if she barks back to life. (although im hoping for a bit more like a purr) Only advise I can say is, when you start getting frustrated and screaming obsinities, walk away and come back in a bit, or the next day. Amazingly, it will just work at that point.

 

Thanks for the amazing advice guys. Certainly priceless tips to help me along the way.

Picked up some sorting trays today and some all-purpose de-greaser. I guess I'll need to read up on the carb guides on the forum to help me get more cleaners and whatnot.

Tomorrow I'm determined to at least get the rack off the bike. I think before this bike is finished, I'll have to buy each and every one of you a beer.

 

Ej,

IF you are looking at rebuilding the carbs all the way take a look at this tutorial, great pictures and good instructions from Len.

I am waiting on a new rack that I bought to find out what kind of kit I need (how much needs to be replaced).

Good luck.

 

ejpt i am right here with you . just removed tank . will tear down tomorrow , as well as removing rear wheel to inspect brakes . let the games begin! i have 3 sets of carbs so i hope if i need any parts i already have them !

 

Hey eco, where is the link to the carb rebuild? Much appreciated bro!

Woohoo Elk! I hear the rear brakes can de-laminate and cause troubles. Mine came with an uninstalled new set for the rear. The PO said that the rear brake shoes were "fine", so he didn't install them. I think it would be wise for me to put them on just in case. I imagine it shouldn't be too tough removing the drive shaft? Probably a heck of a lot easier than removing one from a car.

Tomorrow will be a day of reckoning!

 

Ups. forgot to paste:

http://www.xj4ever.com/hitachi%20thrott ... 0seals.pdf

 

Hold the phone. You don't need to remove the driveshaft to remove the rear wheel/access the brakes. The wheel pulls away from the drive "pumpkin" it's on splines.

Aren't you working with a manual?

 

Any updates, fellas?