valve clearences

these are my valve clearences, when i last had the bike running there was a clicking from the left hand side exhaust area, so i assumed that one those would be off, but from what i got only the right hand side was off (with the exception of cylinder 3 exhaust)

(exhaust)
.007 .007 | .006 .004

.004 .004 | .003 .002

 

im just gonna throw this on this post instead of starting a new one, i know i should just start a resto-log for all the work im doing to mine, but anyways....how the heck do you get the airbox in without damaging it OR with out taking the jug off. When i pulled my old one it cracked (it was snowing) so i got one off ebay, trying to get it in there but what do ya know, its snowing again to bad yamaha didnt make them a 2 piece. any suggestions?

 

Actually, all of you intake valves are too tight, because specs are 0.0043 to 0.0059 inch), the left side not by much but enough to change all four intake shims now.

 

Ticking is actually normal, it's when they're NOT clicking along that is a good indication that they're too tight

 

+1 once you have the valves correctly adjusted your engine will be a bit louder and clicking away happily both sides 8)

 

Well the engine wont be louder, but the valvetrain will be

 

haynes says .004-.006 for intake and .006 - .008 for ex so how is the intake off on the left hand side?

 

Well, Haynes doesn't give exactly the same specs as the service manual, which are 0.0043 to 0.0059 as I already wrote. Even if we consider the specs in HAynes manual, your left intake valves being at 0.004 are on the very tight side of OK, so you'd better change their shims now that you're at it, because they will go out of specs very soon.

 

Roger. Ill pull them out tomorrow and put up the numbers and check the chart.

 

To get your box in try warming it up first with a hair dryer or heat gun but don't hold the heat gun too long in one spot, you could also heat it in an oven to no more than 150F. Then it's a matter of fitting that square plug in a tetrahedral hole.

+1 to the ticking valves, when tight there is no impact with the lobe, when they are right the lobes 'tap' the shims, as they should-and I agree with not leaving valves on the tight side, you want them in spec and closer to the loose side of the spec is better since they tighten with time-but not out of spec.

 

had to google that word lol, im backwoods. We aint got fancy talk like ya'll :lol: Im not to sure about that though, its to cold out to try that, it would get a nice stress crack or get stressed to much and the filter wont fit in there. Ill add that the battery, battery cage, and starter are off. giving me as much room as possible for now.

and quebecois59 what about the .006 exhaust? Whats the factory service manual say for those specs?

 

sorry it just seems like some arcane shape when your trying to squeeze it in there-almost like an effort was made to make it a real PIA. I didn't realize your bike was outside only, that would make it harder getting it in for sure. When it warms up you can do this process, but it won't hurt the box or misshape it unless you get it too hot. That's good that you got everything else out of the way.

 

0.0063 to 0.0079 inch, so you got one exhaust valve pretty tight (0.004) and another one a bit tight (0.006).

 

I run my shop out of my garage but it isnt heated, no i never keep bike outside, even my dirtbikes sit in a barn out at my trails. Here are the final readings, cylinder number 4 exhaust number was not on the shim anymore, the Y was there and i could make out the 2 barley but nothing else. i measured it with the calipers and it was 266 if that helps ya'll (are these numbers on the shims in MM's??) im not sure what to do except try a couple different shims, turn the cam a couple times, then check clearance??? What do you do if you cant read the shim??

good good | 270 266??

280 280 | 290 280


Lookin at the chart this is what i came up with for new shims

good good | 260 ???

270 270 | 280 270

 

Well is the valvetrain not the engine or part thereof? OK I get what you mean, common misnomer, when people say a loud engine they usually mean loud exhaust and that won't get appreciably louder (although maybe a miniscule amount) so yes, valvetrain will be louder is a much better way of putting it

I think the one measured at 266 would be likely 265 as aren't they available in 5's?

That being the case, you'd want a 255

 

So they are in millimeters, good game. and the chart says i would need a 250.

 

Ahh possibly you would, I was looking at your other clearances that were .004 and thinking you could just go down 10 but guess that wouldn't put a .004 exhaust side back to the middle of spec. 250 is looking right 8)

Make sure when you fit the new shims that they are sat down properly in the bucket, they can tend to stick a little until you've turned the engine over by hand a few times

 

I don't think you read the charts the right way. Here are the shim numbers I get with your readings and measurements:

Exhaust: OK-OK-265-255

Intake: 275-275-285-280

 

It would be better if you were to use metric for measuring, then you could follow the chart easier.

Here are the correct tolerance ranges:

.11-.15mm for intake
.16-.20 for exhaust

Dave F

 

Good idea, so I was close on that last shim first time?

 

those numbers would be showing that my clearence was off by much more....how did you come up with those? im going by the haynes manual chart.

yes i noticed when they seat up nicely come oil oozes out of there

 

I first converted your measurements to mm:

Exhaust: 0.18 - 0.18 - 0.15 - 0.10
Shims: OK - OK - 270 - 265

Intake: 0.10 - 0.10 - 0.07 - 0.05
Shims: 280 - 280 - 290 - 280

Took your #3 intake valve as an example:



It clearly shows that you need a 285 shim.

I would suggest that you check your #1 and #2 exhaust shim numbers, then you will know what's in there and what you will need when these valves get tight eventually.

 

ALL of the above is correct, including the specs. The mistake in the Haynes is well-known.

And keeping it pure metric means you can do it in your head with some practice. Yes, a 265 shim should measure 2.65mm; a 260, 2.60mm, etc.

K-D Tools make a "pure" metric feeler gauge set, #2274, widely available.

 

oh ok yea i didnt convert them and forgot to look at the chart close enough to see the decimal was in a different spot

and yea my feeler gauge has both readings on it

 

got the shims today, thanks!!!!

 

Hence your consternation. Your feeler is in "American" (Imperial) sizes, with odd metric equivalents. What I am recommending is a purely metric feeler, one with the blades in even, metric sizes. No converting, no decimal point in the wrong spot, metric to measure metric. Best $8 you'll spend yet.

 

+1 on what fitz said. I took that advice when I got my feeler set and got the K-D 2274. Made measuring the shims a breeze and when I figured out what I had I knew instantly what I needed. No looking at the chart for me. Whole time working on the shims on my bike was probably no more than a half hour. Now if only I could get the valve cover gasket off the valve cover so I can re-install that.

 

Again im backwoods dont know what that means but....

EIGHT DOLLARS!!!??? I PAID $35 FOR MINE!!! (i remember telling them it was ridiculously priced) LINK ME PLEASE

 

Sure: http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-2274.aspx

Plus Sears usually has them; and most any Auto Parts store with the K-D Tools "special tool" rack (like NAPA, etc.)

 

Yea i got one from an advance auto and it came with brass and steel blades, but it doesn't go to low since it is mainly for cars and trucks. I have a napa down the street ill check that, sears is on the other side of town so ill prob just order one online.

 

so i put in a couple of my shims (intake 1 and 2) and a .006 slides all the way in with little resistance but .007 doesn't fit at all. should there be that much of a difference when the clearance originally was .004 on both valves, with a 280 installed previously and now there is a 275 in there. i did roll the cam lobe over them about 5 times each then checked. Does this sound right to anyone??? im just not sure if the clearance should have changed that much, i would have thought it to be .005

 

If We're still converting then .05mm (difference 280 to 275 shim) would be about 2thou old money so yea pretty big difference with those gauges and the .006 would be right

 

GET SOME METRIC FEELERS.

.006" = .152mm.

.007" = .177mm.

.004" = .1016mm.

DROP the insignificant thousanths of a millimeter! Don't try to round them, drop them. You're driving yourself crazy over nothing. .001mm = .00004"

Exhaust, right? You were at .10, spec is .16 to .20. MILLIMETERS.

If you went from a 280, you needed to go to a 270. A 275 would put you at .15mm, still out of spec.

This is the #1 reason to use METRIC feeler gauges. Saves shimming headaches.

 

Oh, sorry, mis read the original post.

Intake? You were at .10mm, down one size, now you're at .15mm. In spec.

My apologies. (I would have just corrected the response, but I wasn't sure how many people would read it before I could.)

 

Glad somebody knows their conversion factors, you're right that trying to convert just messes with your mind (well, mine at least. Got C in maths!) if you're trying to do that & deal with old shim size Vs required shim size it stops being fun.

Was that right what I said then, .05mm = 2 thou hence should be right :? not that it matters to these clearances, just confuddled now & thought that was close

 

It's EASY if you keep it all metric. If you do that, you can do them in your head, no chart required.

When you work on Yamahas, you just have to throw out all "Imperial" (American) thinking and go purely metric.

Unlike my Norton, which is half WHITWORTH (or British Standard) left over from WWII, and half odd-ball American pitch sizes.

 

\

holy shit man, im about as chilled as can be just asking a simple question. If you would like to pay for my gas in my 9mpg truck to go get them be my guest. paypall it. Other wise you cant expect something you ordered online to be here in 5 min. f***.