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Any VA owners out there?

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by geeae85, Mar 19, 2013.

  1. geeae85

    geeae85 New Member

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    I purchased my 85 XJ700 last year. I have been trying to get it running. I have gotten it to start, but for some reason it will not let me ride for more than a mile or so. I was wondering if there were any fellow owners in VA or Richmond area that might be able to offer me some assistance as this is also my first bike and I dont really know too much about them. I have replaced the solenoid, battery, and starter switch since they all needed replacing. I have changed the oil and attempted the clean the carbs (not sure if i did a good enough job). If not possible to help me getting running maybe even suggest a good bike shop that is reasonable. I have taken it to a few places, but most wouldnt even give me the time of day to look at it.
     
  2. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    Could you be more descriptive about what happens after one mile or so? How does it stop running? Abruptly or gradually?
     
  3. skyhawk

    skyhawk Member

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    I'm at Lake Anna but don't get down that way much. I don't know what you have for manuals but the XJCD that you can buy here on this website is about as cheap as you'll ever find the shop manuals plus a lot more info.
    Maybe we can talk you through a few troubleshooting scenarios to help you find out what is going on...

    What is the condition of your tank inside??? Rust, some rust, or spotless???

    Have you done any work on your fuel tank petcock??? I'm not sure if the 700 has a screen or not, maybe someone else knows, but if so clean it. Will it act the same if the petcock is in PRI position?
     
  4. nevarez_700

    nevarez_700 New Member

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    More info would be great but, this does sound similar to an issue I used to have (and still would if I didn't apply this "fix"): turn your petcock to PRI. It overrides the vacuum system in your tank/petcock and keeps a constant free flow of fuel to your bowls.

    My bike would slowly start to bog out after about 1/2 hour cruising through town or 2 minutes on the freeway. It would eventually die completely. I'd crank and crank, look down in the tank which always had fuel, make sure my intake was clear, check the petcock was on - you name it. After about 5 minutes, give it one more shot and voila!

    One day during this cycle, I noticed that my inline fuel filter was empty so I "primed" it and actually forgot to switch it back, proceeded to ride through the rest of my full tank with no issues!

    The permanent fix, of course, would be to replace my petcock but uh...my wallet disagrees...good luck!
     
  5. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    Ooooorrrr.... Repair it with a vacuum diaphragm from chacal? :?

    But yes, the O/P needs to supply more info as at the moment it could be literally one of a hundred and fifty odd things.

    Things that would help would be as quebecois suggested,
    plus does it start again after waiting (and for how long), or is the battery then flat?
    can you smell petrol in the air?
    How does it usually run?
    Enrichment circuit working?

    But more importantly before we get to the riding/breaking down/fixing stuff

    Have you checked/set valve clearances?
    Compressions?
    Running Sync?

    And most importantly of all, have you read the brake shoe/tire/brake hose links in mine and other's signature lines?
     
  6. geeae85

    geeae85 New Member

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    It just dies abruptly, the last time it died on me while I was driving uphill.

    I do have the original manual that came with the bike. I have used that to help me take the carbs down.

    The tank is in pretty good condition, it looks like there might have been rust in the tank, but the previous owner had the inside of the tank relined or coated?

    I have not done any work to the petcock, and i just started that it is leaking now. I will try setting it on PRI.


    I have not been able to get it to start back up since a week ago when it died on me last. I have replaced the battery, and spark plugs since then. I can smell petrol when I try to start it, but that maybe because it is leaking from the petcock. When I was able to ride it last with little issue back in Oct. or Nov. the only thing would be that the throttle was a little laggy, but I was mixing some seafoam with the gas and was noticing some improvement.

    I am pretty new to working on motorcycles, and automobiles but I do learn quick and am pretty handy. I work carpentry, so I have tools and know how to use them. Unfortunately working on a bike or car is not the same. i really dont know what a Enrichment circuit is or how to checked/set valve clearances, compressions, running Sync?


    Thanks everyone for helping me out so far!
     
  7. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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  8. geeae85

    geeae85 New Member

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    I just read the links in your signature. I guess I will need to replace the brake lines and drum/calipers as well now. When I was looking at the master cylinder I noticed the screw on mine are stripped completely. Any ideas on how to get them out so I can replace them or do I need get an aftermarket master cylinder?
     
  9. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    You don't need to replace the calipers, just rebuild them if they're bad. And it's the shoes that delaminate not the drum. You'll get there with the terminology soon enough :) Better to be safe with this stuff & be shorter of money than to be a few quid/bucks up & hanging out the back of a truck though :?

    You mean the screws that hold the cap on? If the heads are stripped out, you can put a slot in them with a dremel or similar to get them out & replace the screws. If you really can't get the screws out without butchering the reservoir I'm sure there's a few M/Cs for sale in the forum up top, or even just a reservoir... (we don't sell tat to a fellow XJ'er on here like people do on ebay!)

    I've finished putting a few links of reading material up in my last post for you, you can go about the recommisioning however you like but I & others will recommend you get the brakes and tires right before you get her running (temptations a bitch when she fires up first turn on clean carbs & runs better than you ever hoped, ask me how I know!)

    Best of luck, any questions just ask we're all here to help :)
     
  10. geeae85

    geeae85 New Member

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    Thanks again you have been very helpful, I will try that dremel trick!
     
  11. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    Not a problem, the members were all very helpful with my unusual XJ model when I first joined & I try to make others feel as welcome as I did.

    Just remembered another carb thread too, this one's got a lot of pics of what you're likely to find when you get to that part too. Glad you're sorting the safety aspect first though, we like to keep members alive as well as bikes :D

    Alive's pic-heavy carb thread
     
  12. geeae85

    geeae85 New Member

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    Well I got the carbs cleaned out and back on the bike. She not starts up strong every time with out hesitation! I could not do it with all of your help. I did run into some obstacles along the way and had to order replacement parts. But all in all it was a great learning experience.

    Now I am working on the brakes like 750E, has suggested. I got the front brake pads out but cannot seem to get the new ones in, is there some kind of trick for this?

    I will do the rear next. I felt like the front was not as effective and were squeaking a lot, so I decided to replace them first.
     
  13. iwingameover

    iwingameover Active Member

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    Did you replace the caliper seals? You should.

    If not did you press the piston back in? The new pads are thicker than the old and need the extra space.
     
  14. pjk_xj700

    pjk_xj700 Member

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    The rubber lines that connect your MC and calipers may be original, and therefore majorly out of compliance. The rubber lines have a date ( MM-YY ) somewhere on them, and they'll probably be from the 1980's. Service life was 4 years, i believe.

    That would account for the spongy feel, even if you replace the pads.

    Chacal sells steel lines, as well as rubber lines, i believe.
     
  15. geeae85

    geeae85 New Member

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    No I did not replace the seals.

    How do you press the pistons back in? I tried to press them back in with my hand but they wont budge. I am afraid I might break something if I try to pry them back in.
     
  16. iwingameover

    iwingameover Active Member

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    the 700 calipers maybe different. but on mine I used a C clamp.

    The caliper seals are a 2 year service item. the lines as mentioned 4 years.
     
  17. geeae85

    geeae85 New Member

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    did you have to disassemble the calipers to attach the clamps? I assume you did to replace the caliper seals.
     
  18. iwingameover

    iwingameover Active Member

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    I took it off the bike and took the pads out to work the clamp. On my bike it's a one piston caliper.

    When you service the seals the piston will slide back in with your finger.

    Alternately, if you are not doing the seals, you could rent/buy a disc brake spreader from your local parts store and use that to push with the pads installed.
     
  19. geeae85

    geeae85 New Member

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    thanks for your help! I got a hold of the service manual. It says if you shoot compressed air into the calipers the pistons will retract. I am going to try that tomorrow. I will also be replace the brake lines and copper washers as chacal suggested in one of his threads.

    Next I will work on the rear brakes. These are a drum, any advise?
     
  20. geeae85

    geeae85 New Member

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    I have searched this forum for a write up on how to change the rear brake shoes. I have not been able to find anything.

    The closest I could find was this video on youtube:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eA85nyjd ... e=youtu.be

    However I do not have a chain, I have what looks like a differential. Do I still need to take my wheel off?
     
  21. iwingameover

    iwingameover Active Member

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    Didn't watch the video. Yes you need to remove the rear wheel. Then the brake plate should come out and the shoes are attached to it.
     

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