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Suggestion for Spark Plugs Cap

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by nammy, May 15, 2007.

  1. nammy

    nammy Member

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    I need to replace the plug Caps.
    Any good suggestion?
     
  2. nammy

    nammy Member

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  3. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Yes they would work but will they fit. OEM has the angled caps. They are only $7 a whack from aftermarket. Cheaper to build them yourself to original specs.
     
  4. nammy

    nammy Member

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    I'm thinking of doing the Dyna Coil Conversion.
     
  5. WeAreZilla

    WeAreZilla Member

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    The caps that are often recommended for our bike have the angle at the top, but the better choice are the straight ones, like the caps in the link you provided. If you only want the caps, though, you can order them separately.

    I really like doing business with these folks:
    http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=423

    Here's how the straight ones will look on your X. (Shown with custom wires and coils.) As you can see, being straight points the wires up and off the valve cover. Also, you can slide the original orange rubber boots off your original caps and use them on the new caps - they are a near perfect fit:
    http://www.zillaphoto.com/MaximX/2-rebu ... 4_NGK.html

    If your intention is to replace the wires into the X's original coils, well, that's an undertaking. IMHO, much better to replace the coils and wires for numerous reasons. If you stall in the rain you can bet it's time for new coils. (A very common issue with our bikes.)

    Z
     
  6. nammy

    nammy Member

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    WeAreZilla
    First time to see your built, "WOW"
    I will have to document my rebuilt too. Thanks for the info.
     
  7. kevineleven

    kevineleven Member

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    I got the NGK caps from my local shop. Forget the price, but they fit/work fine.
     
  8. Hvnbnd

    Hvnbnd Active Member

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    Zilla, That is one awsome restoration!!!

    My Compliments!!
     
  9. WeAreZilla

    WeAreZilla Member

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    Thanks y'all.

    Hvnbnd, from your description it sounds like you have a lot of work in yours too - would enjoy seeing "before" pics. Nammy, it is always fun to see the progress, as someone winds their way through a rebuild.

    Z
     
  10. Hvnbnd

    Hvnbnd Active Member

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    I blew it!

    NO before pics................
    when I got my bike it was given to me, free, just to haul it away.
    No title, no seat, no tank, sat in the weather for 10 yrs that I know of.

    the short of it is, when I brought it home there seemed to be some serious question whether I would/could make it run.

    The engine was locked up, the carbs had so much tar and varnish in them that I couldnt move the throttle plates with any wrench.

    The paint originally was red but was so faded that it had become greyish white, I knew the color because it was under the side fender grabs and the front fender had a spot under the frok bridge.

    When it started looking more positive I was on such a roll that I forgot the pictures and plus I didnt have you guys to share it with then.

    There is a lot more to the story, like how I got the carbs apart and how I got the engine to turn over...etc.

    Best part, when it was done I had a bike that looked real nice with no payment and only 6400 miles on it!

    Sorry I went on.
     
  11. nimitz

    nimitz Member

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    I like those guys - their prices are pretty good considering Old Bike Barn wants $40+ to ship plug boots and wires.

    I really want to do either blue wires or blue boots but I don't know where to look for them.


    Whoa! :eek: Those look very cool! I like how you re-used the orange as an accent. Nice job dude!

    So if I've got the stock coils then I'm not going to be able to just replace the wires? That's going to suck because I accidentally pulled off one of the boots yesterday and found it more than a little corroded.

    That's going to really suck if I have to suddenly spend for coils too. :-(
     
  12. Hvnbnd

    Hvnbnd Active Member

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    Mike, Do a search on Daves XJ web site and there is a really good writeup on how to do this.


    I'm not sure but I'll bet you can find it on this site as well with a little searching.
     
  13. WeAreZilla

    WeAreZilla Member

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    It wasn't just for looks, although it works good for that too. The little rubber boot that comes on the new NGK caps is way too small to fill the plug well on the X. Just so happens that the original rubber boot fits the new NGK caps too.

    If you only pulled off the plug cap, simply trim back about a quarter inch on the plug wire, then screw the cap back on. If you really want to replace the plug wires in the original coils, here's the way to do it:
    http://www.surenet.net/~verhey/x-coil/x-coils.html

    This is probably the single best mod you can do for your bike. If you get caught in the rain running with the original coils, you may find yourself on the side of the road until things dry out. There are some folks who have applied something like rubber dip to seal them and replace the wires. But going through all that trouble to salvage the old coils seems like over-kill to me. IMHO, you gain sooo much more replacing them, with peace of mind, superior spark, and a much better starting/running X.

    Z1 Enterprises also has one of the best deals on the web for coils too:
    http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=210

    Z

    EDIT: I should add that I have nothing to do with Z1 except being a happy and loyal customer.
     
  14. nimitz

    nimitz Member

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    Thanks dude!

    They're currently running fine but I'll probably replace them later this year.

    I take it that the Dyna coils will take any standard boot and 8mm wire? They mention a resistor in the description - am I going to need one or are they straight swaps?
     
  15. WeAreZilla

    WeAreZilla Member

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    The only resistor in the setup that I can think of is the one built into the NGK plug cap.

    Two small and simple home-grown brackets is all it takes, maybe similar to the ones on mine:
    http://www.zillaphoto.com/MaximX/2-rebu ... sRear.html

    Have to pull the radiator to get it done. Beyond that, just make sure you keep straight with the primary/secondary connections.

    Z
     

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