carb second level of H*ll

Ok I have been threw every step in the bible of clean on here been threw the carbs 6 times my self once with help. Just picked them up from a local shop had them go threw them after putting them back on this am early and still no fuel to the fire. Now the carbs are back on the bike and still the same problem yes there is fuel coming out the tank and in floats of carbs. I have spark and it will run on spray or if i drop a little bit of fuel in jugs. the floats are clean cleaned all the jets including getting a face full doing choke. all the standard ets the ones that look like a holley jet are clean and clear ran bruches threw carb new seats neadles. just paid shop 275 to do them again they said they will work and nothing again is this thing cursed?

also valves are set the bike has been sitting for ever only 457 miles on it what am i missing here or do i part the dam thing out ?

 

if your idle is set too high or you give it any throttle the enrichment circuit is defeated. since yours doesn't start back off the idle and see if you get some fire in the hole.
then do all that other stuff your going to be told

 

no throttle given at start up just choke, trying to find the needle jet pictures on here the repair book I have doesn't cover 85 700 but covers the 82 650 i have here still waiting on manual for the 85. but my question is the Emulsion Tubes or needle jets as stated in the book I know i had the jets out but never seen this in there I'm not sure i did a clean job right more suited to car carbs than bike grrrrrr called the bike shop i took carbs to they want whole bike there before anything else is done with carbs as they say there sure they will work and the petcock is broken but it pisses fuel out at good clip on pri? btw they want 85 an hour to figure it out after spending 275 for them to go threw the carbs first thing this am.

 

the shop I took carbs to didn't touch them. the paint is still on the screws for the bowls un touched, so I going in them again tonight any tips ? spots to check thourly? been therw them quite a few times already I have to be missing somthing

 

After the Rip Van Winkle that bike did, ... you are going to have some work to do ... especially concerning systems that need to be replaced or rehabilitated just from sitting so long.

Replace the Fuse Panel.
While you are attending to performing the prescribed maintenance getting Brakes, Tires, Forks and Electrical Connections road-ready, ... you should have those Carbs Cleaned and adjusted by a trustworthy individual who will do a comprehensive thorough cleaning and set-up prior to on-the-bike Fine Tuning.

 

did you make sure to clean out/open up the enrichment wells in the float bowls? Man what a you know what they can be. they get so blocked up it seems like they are supposed to be air tight.

 

Yes bowls are clean as is the jets there is new rubber brakes and I wired a new blade style fuse box in ( automotive mini style) that's all good just the carbs giving trouble I'm going in at them tonight hope to make some head way on them

 

You have fuel in the carb bowls? I made the mistake of installing the floats upside down = no fuel flow.

 

I had one cylinder that would't fire and I finally got it to fire by opening the pilot screw almost 5 turns. That led me to looking for some air or vacuum leak since it required so much gas. I found a leaking intake gasket, fixed it and that solved the problem. So, try that on one of the cylinders and see if it will fire. Also, are you certain that the bench sync was done correctly? Did you remove the pilot screws and blow out the channels?

 

Removed the bowl drain and fuel does come out and new manifolds on it head side the boots that go to air box were OK thinking something is clogging up where does main fuel free or Ventura run on these anyone know?

 

Rick the bike was repaired after the crash layed it down a ditch. I was not happy with the tank shrink on bondo look that's why that's there

 

The bowls are clean but did you clean the tiny little opening in the side of the bowl that the small brass tube goes into?

It's a tiny little bugger.

I want to add this info to help enlighten you as to the pain this can be.

I ended up making a needle like tool by sanding down a piece of .030 mig wire on the belt sander into some ungodly pointy and fragile little needle like tool. Before I did this and prodded down in there, they were sealed shut and would not pass light, air, or carb cleaner. once i poked through them i was able to use air and carb cleaner to get them flowing.

I would have thought they were supposed to be sealed if it weren't for the knowledge on this forum.

 

This. Make sure floats are installed the correct way.


Also, it's worthwhile to check compression.

 

Im an idiot found two problems floats in upside down had a smidgen of fuel in bowls two jets were in wrong spots now to figure out how to set float level then bench test then I'm burning the tire I hope thanks for the help y'all anyone know the float level measured hight

 

Glad to hear you got her sorted out.

 

The very best way to set Float Heights is using the "Clear Tube Method".
With a length of Vinyl Tube connected to the Fuel Bowl Drain Port, ... loosen the Drain Screw until the Tube fills to the level of the Height allowed by the Float.

Look at this illustration.
The area in Green is Ideal Specs.
Right at the TOP of the Lock Washer.

 

Ok thanks much y'all its alive and very well now just ripped twenty miles in poring rain and thirty five degrees lol and its flawless so tomorrow put the yics tool in it and menomenter on and finish the job thanks again look forward to seeing some of y'all on the road

 

OK that's what I set them at as the only mention I found was in the Carb section so I'm good thanks

 

Hot diggity. Glad to year you got her running. Always nice to see another XJ7 on the road.

 

Haha I know that feeling when you've been struggling with something & finally get it sorted, you just gotta ride

You see now why me & others were so concerned for you to sort the tires and brakes first job

Don't forget to have the engine up to temp before syncing by the way.

 

Yes tires were junk lol brakes were marginal at best but that was done long before it ran thanks on heads up on warm up

 

Ok got it out for some cold but good riding to break everything in. Got a few small things to iron out. I am dripping out a vent when shut down on center stand, and worse on side stand float level or petcock ? It stops when I pinch the fuel line off. Some wobbel in frone wheel think its tweeked? repair it or replace it ? Stock pipes are blowing packing? out or mouse turds lol but its getting louder are these repack able? And last but not least the lights dim maby 55 to 60% of run brightness at idle normal or not ?

 

Why am I not surpised :x

Glad you got it sorted yourself though!

 

One of the floats is sticking open. Question is, why.

If you were having trouble getting the fuel levels to settle down, as I and others have had (here's a good tutorial on how to set them), this thread over here (Setting the floats (Mikuni)) illustrates what might be happening.

 

Agree with shmuck, the float valves are leaking. The petrooster could be leaking as well (should shut off with no vacuum in ON and RES, only flow in PRI) but the float valves need sorting too

I'd check & change oil before next start too in case it's diluted with fuel.

The front wheel wobble could be a balance issue, bearings, or tyre not seated correctly. First off check the tyre is seated evenly all the way round on both sides & the bearings are smooth/not loose, then balance the wheel (easy to do, set it up on the axle between 2 benches or similar & see which part likes to sit lowest, add weights opposite until it settles in any random position after you spin it)

 

put a dial indicater on wheel and spun it almost .74 in of run out thats almost 3/4 inch lol its shot im thinking will check floats tonight after im done cleaning, i have the Hitachi carbs on this one. Any thoughts on the lights I plan on hooking up multi meter to it but I know there is a voltage drop at idle not sure if its normal? My honda dont do this nor does the 82, both them have aftermarket charging systems on them. pipes tho can they be repacked?

 

Oh right the actual rim is buckled then How is the fork action? Any excessive stiction (static friction, I.E. resistance to move or bounce back smoothly) could mean they're bent too.

On the lights, I'd expect them to dim slightly at lower revs as the alternator doesn't charge until >2000-2500rpm. If they're really bad it could be the battery being a bit weak but I'd expect starting trouble if that was true, so maybe OK

Personally I'd leave the pipes if they're solid, AFAIK they were baffled not glasspack anyhow so maybe it's mouse homes blowing out?

 

forks are new? or repaired as they are great in action. Battery is new as of 3 weeks ago. I did test it and the charging system comes on at 2250 so you are right thanks. The pipes are not rusted nor is the collector, so I will leave them, was hoping for a bit more quiet but it does have a nice sound to it just mouse "stuff" comming out then. Thanks for the information.

 

Well still running around in circles on this rebuilt the petcock ran the carbs threw the cleaner still pissing out while off. Lower the floats the bike is real lean and runs like crap no in-between the tank runs slow in on and reserve good on pri I can't get it to stop running did this even before rebuild nothing is working right lol just burn on a bung and put a Honda petcock? One that has a off?

 

If you can't get the original petrooster to rebuild satisfactorily, (did you use one of Len's kits? Tried a washer to boost the spring? tapped the valve into it's seat slightly?) Len's got on/off/res ones in stock that fit the stock tank IIRC (what HASN'T Len got? lol )

If the carbs are still overflowing after cleaning & checking the float needle tips & seats maybe it'd be worth getting a set of float needles and seats too?

 

New needles seats and rebuild kit from local shop flipping thing still isn't working right going back at it one more time then if this don't work its getting mothballed to make room for another builder

 

The ones other shops sell can be inferior quality to what Chacal has in stock. He only stocks stuff known to be good quality & most importantly to work on our bikes (not just saying this to get a discount either, I'm on the wrong side of the pond just going from what everyone who has bought from him says )

That said, have you fitted new copper washers under the float seats too or re-used the old ones? They work harden and can leak even if annealed...

 

New copper washers scorced from my brake washer bin and might be bad parts but idk if that's the case my 650 runs fuel engine off valve on just like the 700 its just frustrating to take one step forward and three back. The bike runs rides cept bent wheel still no replays on one going to get new if I have to when if I figure out fuel problem just don't like the drip out of vent it will drain tank in five hours and eats the paint off storage building floor. Makes no cents why new parts in petcock don't seal and carbs leak even when set right to bottom of lock washer. The think runs like crap and egts are high when I back fuel level down

 

Also as I pointed out in another post earlier, it'll dump fuel into your oil through the breather (or directly down the ports) so worth not running it until the oil is known to be uncontaminated.

My thoughts are if you've got everything set just so, then the parts must be bad :?

That's assuming the leak IS from overflowing, not from leaking drain screws?

 

::: Never make your Bad situation, ... worse!" :::

Buy a Brand-new Petc0ck. (Should last you 20 ~ 30 years.)

Install a highly-reliable auxiliary Fuel Shut-off Valve.
Hdwe. Store / Briggs & Stratton / $10.95

 

Will pick one up in am if my head is better. Will reset floats to lock washer and give it a try. Yes I will also change oil before refiring the motor hope to be back tomorrow after noon and might work on it tomorrow night thanks yall

 

This thread's getting evil!

 

That explains alot lol got four stitches and going home in hour lol long night hope to be out in shop tonight

 

Bummer, how did you get hurt?

 

Have you read the bigfitz story of the petcock? You may have missed something
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=25058.html

 

I fell over gashed my head open on a hood edge. Thanks on the info for petcock I did look threw that.

 

Droped the carbs off to yamaha shop today they said the jets are over sized from cleaning and the carbs were not squared up. hope filly tomorow they will be done

 

Sputtering while steady throttle but otherwise runs good no issues with leaking or acceleration or de acceleration waiting on wheel finally got most the demons exercised just few left

 

Could that be simply due to needing a running sync I wonder?

 

Ok got the bike back again runs good not great still sputtering on steady running speed. I put air fuel gauge on it and its running rich. The air fuel screws are set at turn and a half out. The plugs on 2 3 and 4 are all looking OK or maby a little lean number one tho is black as coal with some soot on it after 46 miles. Carbs were sync and adjusted not sure if I just need new Carb or what? They were cleaned and the idle circuit is clean also

 

ONCE THE VALVE CLEARANCES ARE IN SPEC, it sure could.

 

Had them checked the clearance is right on its only one cylinder that's not running right

 

OK, so if the valves are in spec, the float levels accurately wet-set, the carbs as bench sync'ed as they can be; then the next step is...

your running vacuum sync. The carbs have to be sync'ed to your motor, that isn't something that can be done with them off the bike. And you can't get a good vac sync with out-of-spec valves.

If this is a YICS motor, the YICS will need to be blocked for the running sync.

Quick question: has anyone done a compression test on this motor recently? You don't want to be fighting a battle you can't win.

 

Had the carbs sync while on bike running don't know if they blocked yics off was not there did run Much better than when I drooped it off but only first 20 or so miles. Got it back home and pulled the plugs found that #1 was black and then checked what carbs set at and the screw by the choke valve is out one and a half turns bowls are running clean fresh fuel in it. Will check compression tonight bit it was all with in a few pounds of each other at first check only 100 maby 200 miles on it now still fighting Carb issues

 

You should consider acquiring a ColorTune Plug.

The ColorTune Plug will allow you to very rapidly find an IDEAL Idle Mixture.
Having the Bike tuned to its optimal Mixture to IDLE, like a sewing machine, will bring you very close to getting "Dialed-in".

With the Air Screws set to deliver a precision stoichiometric Idle Mixture; their additional adjustment to the state of being Fine Tuned is but a Tweak or two from right-on-the-money.

Attention to details.
Don't compromise anything during this critical phase of preparing for peak performance.
Make it all copacetic!