XJ 650 no spark/ start button not working

Trying to get this old girl going again but have ran into a new problem. The starter button does not do anything. It is in neutral with the neutral light on and the switch to run. I then press the start button and nothing happens.

I then decided to check to see if I could just start it off the soloiniod but that didn't work. I took on plug out and grounded it to the engine and used the soloniod to turn the bike over again but there was no spark at the plug.

What could cause the plugs not to spark even if i start the bike with the soloniod? I'm not sure if the starter broken is button or I'm just not starting the bike the proper way?

Any help to steer me in the right direction would be great!

 

First thing I'd check would be the main fuse, if you haven't already.
And of course double check the kill switch, side stand switch, etc. I don't say that to be insulting, but I doubt if there is anyone on this forum (myself included) who hasn't wasted time trying to start the bike with the kill switch off.

 

Now that would make a good Poll Quixote

 

Put me down for half a dozen more or less

 

Waldo, I might admit one..! and then hold my head in shame.. LOL

Trav81, You handy with a multi meter, or test lamp ? you may need to trace continuity through a few circuits.

These old bikes have some simple but infuriating safety circuits..

 

After checking basics, fuses/connections/battery charge etc my vote goes with the safety circuit as well, most common offender seems to be the sidestand switch so perhaps start with that.

I've done the killswitch trick once on the XJ, mainly because it got knocked. I switch off using the key normally to avoid that kind of embarrassment haha

EDIT-: just a thought, do you have neutral light when you switch on? And did the oil light come on when you pressed the start button?

 

I have been away for a bit but been working on the bike today and fuses are all good along with all connections from what I can tell. Blinkers and brake lights work. Neutral light is on and the oil light does NOT come on when I press the start button.

I'm going to check the side stand switch now and see how that works out.

 

forgot to mention my headlight does not turn on either. Does the engine need to be running for the headlight to come on?

 

US models have a headlamp circuit that requires the motor to be running. In some cases this only requires the motor to be spun over. this then allows the circuit to switch on the headlamp, and is only reset once motor is switched off.

Not sure if this is us law (headlamp on during day riding, or at all times on public highway?)

Best check with circuit diagram or wait until 650 guru comes along.

Have you had a peek inside the starter switch? test lamp on the small wires on the solenoid. If test lamp glows then switch is ok and can be eliminated from the list of potential problems.

 

Just had another thought, whilst your checking side stand switch, set bike on centre stand and check oil level, another part of the safety circuit!

750E Bloke hinted in his post, lamp may be out on cluster?

 

The oil level won't prevent you from starting the bike (although it'd be a good idea!), the reason I asked was because the oil light is supposed to come on when the starter is pressed to confirm the bulb is good. (it would also come on still if the safety circuit is active when the button was pressed)

If it's not working it could be the bulb/bad connection or the starter button isn't earthing possibly.

Perhaps the multiplug & wiring for the right switchgear would be a place to start since the oil light isn't coming on, as this could be the reason for no spark when you short the solenoid to turn it over too, if it's damaged/corroded/disconnected, since it handles the kill switch too.

 

I had same problem, obtained my bike with a right side dump, bent controls, cracked header, etc etc. After some work, compression all good, No spark.
Solenoid clicking over when starter button depressed, engine turning; nothing.
Went through and checked all resistances to coils and caps, everything good.
Opened up timing cover, everything checked out alright.
Timing was fine, so why wasn't it putting spark out.
I noticed 1-4 spark, 2-3 Nothing.
Once I started going more thoroughly through the tail end wiring to the TCI found a break in the power supply wire. Patched it up and it went off like a jet engine. Plus like all i've read on the XJ stock fuse box being worth its weight in dog droppings after so many years, that was part the issue to, went with blade style fused, solved all issue.

Get a multimeter and start tracing lines. It helped me narrow down and trouble shoot.

 

That's not quite the same problem though is it, as the O/P reported having no crank on the button... If you read the posts he only knows theres not a spark because he bridged the solenoid to "force" a crank.

Not saying a multimeter won't help, because it will be the best way to diagnose if and when my suggestion of a damaged/unplugged right switchgear turns out to not be the issue...

 

I have been going through my bike with a multimeter. I don't have any power at the button so I'm trying to follow the power back to find out where the power is lost. I didnt know how to check if the sidestand safety was working so I just connected the two terminals when I unplug the harness and that didn't work.

Could one of the relays be bad thus causing the button not to work?

I will also check the TCI to Tonup.

 

the side stand wires should have continuity when the stand is down i believe?to make the light or indicator on the cluster to show.grounding out the curcuit when the switch is pressed in.My 82 750 had an issue with the relay beside the battery that the power from the battery connects to.If it wasnt sitting horizontallyit would seem to not wanna work.Try to tap it?I may be wrong but thats my 2 cents.And there really isnt any thing to the starter button once there apart.a very basic design.clean up the contacts relly well when or if you have it apart.

 

:::::I don't recommend riding the bike this way, it's just a diagnostic tool:::::

You can bypass the safety circuit by unplugging the safety circuit relay. This will bypass the safety system, then try your spark again. If you get spark, then the problem is battery/coil/tci/plug related. If no spark, then you are looking at a fault in the safety circuit, sidestand/neutral/clutch safeties.

By doing this it will eliminate half of the things that could be wrong, and give you a better starting place for diagnosis.

 

[quote="tskaz]If you get spark, then the problem is battery/coil/tci/plug related. If no spark, then you are looking at a fault in the safety circuit, sidestand/neutral/clutch safeties.
[/quote]

That should be the other way round surely, NO spark with safety relay pulled = batt/coil/plug/TCI, YES spark with safety relay pulled = safety circuit or relay at fault ? :?