Read "A twist of the wrist."

It was pretty good but i have a question theu specifically said not to EVER engine brake. Thay it is used only for acceleration and using it to slow you down is a good way to destroy your bike.

True or false?

I do it slightly but normally just slightly in cooperation with my brakes.

Do you guys ever do it? Not that big of a deal?

 

I do. And I bought TOTW and TOTW 2 and tried to read them......I really did....but I kept nodding off. I've read a lot of riding technique books and these are the least interesting of any (yawn)

 

depends on what I'm doing. If im just trying to coast down a bit for a speed zone change or a turn I might use a little engine braking. Other than that I use the brakes to actually stop the bike.

 

Engine braking is nice on a long downhill. Unless you own a two stroke.
That ain't so good for oiling.
Michael

 

thats a load of crap. if you wanna use the engine to HELP slow you down, go for it. its not going to blow up your engine using the engine to help slow you down a couple times a ride. it would be like normal running on the engine for an extra couple seconds each time you downshift.

 

I somewhat agree with the 2 stroke idea tho, 4 strokes it don't matter

 

Two stokes NEED to (and generally can) carry more corner speed than 4 strokes (if racing). Engine braking is not a bad thing, unless you're specifically riding for the smoothest/ fastest lap time. Other technique authors recommend engine braking (I'm thinking specifically of Bob Bondurant's automotive technique book as an example).

The only way that engine breaking will damage an engine is if you run above redline. Engines don't give one single "F" about whether or not they are working under acceleration, or under deceleration.

Under specific situations (emergency stops as an example) engine braking can be better than using brakes alone.

 

That book was written a long time ago, and applies to 10-tenths riding on the racetrack. It's still considered a road racers' 'bible' not so much applicable to the street. It applies to 2-stroke racebikes with maybe a 3000rpm useful powerband.

A properly tuned XJ has around 7000rpm (8000 on the 550s) of useful powerband (from 2K to 9 or 10K.) Apples and oranges.

Engine braking, especially with our bikes, can be a great contributor to the "haul-down" effort; and if just riding "snappily" only serves to bring out one's inner Ralf Schumacher.

You won't hurt the motor.

 

I'd rather be Michael Shumacher.

 

Four strokes won't hurt at all if you pre mix 2 strokes its a bad thing your cutting off the lubrication to the engine. My rd injection is in front of the slide but even then the pump is on minimal with the throttle closed. kinda like shutting off the gas for the oiling. The reason i say it won't hurt a 4 stroke is many racers say open throttle is good not rpm when braking in a motor as well as decelerating with the throttle closed helps seat the rings.

 

Yeah but Ralf was sloppy and used to poke into the rev limiter all the time. Plus he was big on the "gearing down" thing, rather than just snapping through it like the master.

 

I figured it was more "old school". I appreciate all of the response. It did make me realize something I have noticed. I can lock up my rear brake but dont know how to lock up my front or how to safely practice that. I brake 70 % front 30 % rear. I normally let off the front when it starts to squeak when practicing. Any tips?

 

I wouldn't try to do a stoppie on a maxim x you will get hurt to much rake in the front if you have enough brake to get the rear wheel in the air you had better be strong because you have to be able to control the weight of the bike as the back end passes the front from the side. Leave it to the sport bikes

 

tips, sure, practice in the grass

 

I am definitely not trying to do a stoppie... lol. So i was right I just dont want to lock it up lol

 

I practice emergency stops to the point that I can consistently lock both the front and rear right at the speed where I am able to drop both feet to the ground and catch the bike just as it comes to a stop. The bike skids for perhaps two feet. Every extra inch, that you can reduce your stopping length by, counts. Maximum friction yields maximum stoppage.

Note: This technique does not work well on wet, oily, icy, or otherwise slippery pavement.

 

I can do the rear pretty comfortably how did you practicd the front? Im by no meams trying to stunt a 500lb bike with my 180lbs on it. Just wanting to be the absolute best i can be.

 

Tried to read the book, +1 on the zzzz's. Got a copy of the video, interesting stuff. I am and old dog and I learned some things. The companion video on setting up the suspension is really good information.

 

if it was written for racing then they forgot about how 2 strokes need to rebuild every couple months if raced every weekend so it doesn't matter what you put them through...they don't have to last forever.

 

The whole point of racing is to always be going as fast as you possibly can, engine braking is not an efficient way to do this.
On the street,in traffic you always want to be in the correct gear for whatever speed you are doing,so if you need to move you can instantly! and without a seconds pause to change gear.
Engine braking makes this easy and I think is a good habit for riding in traffic.
Sensible engine braking does no harm to your motor and saves a certain amount of brake wear,I like a light touch on my bike and combining compression braking and sensible brake use makes it easy to maintain that sense of smooth and flowing that make for the best rides.
Check out brake usage on a race bike,it's just like the throttle hard on/off,Brake hard on/off and repeat.
Why else do for sale ad's always say never raced :lol:
Racing is hard on the motor,brakes and suspension there are a lot of reasons why you ride differently on the street.

 

Engine breaking on any 4-stroke street bike is fine, it actually can help break in a new engine better than not doing it.

I do it, you should too, it's the "proper" way to decelerate.

 

The reason I power brake is, if you get into a bad situation, .ie car heading your way, you are in the right gear to power your way out of said situation.

 

I engine brake all the time, it's how I ride. Hell, I use the engine to slow me Down more than using the actual brakes.

No harm done on the engine, whatsoever. (Staying under redline of course )

 

I bought a lightweight bike, and fell a lot. Then I transferred what I learned to bigger bikes. I did forget to mention that locking the front on most '80's bikes is a very unlikely proposition, so you may not be able to do that. I have yet to lock the front of my Seca.

 

Locking up your front brakes isn't hard, just slam on them while going fast enough. Don't use the rear for maximum effect.

Ridiculously unsafe and unwise.

Practice? You never want to lock up the brakes, you want to brake up to the edge of locking up. Your 'practice' is just doing straight lines, hitting the brakes harder and harder, marking your stop point every time and keep trying to beat it. Eventually, you'll find you can't and in your attempts you will start locking your brakes.

Wear full gear, and don't put your wrist out when you fall...

 

I kinda have to agree with Keith on this one. Its easier to trail brake into a turn to slow the bike. Engine braking although effective is much harder to control and will cause the back tire to lock up if not done properly.

Brake input can be manually put in and has better controlled feedback to the rider than just regulating the clutch. This regulating the clutch to engine brake lacks smoothness a rider needs to be setup for acceleration out of the turn.

My 1982 KZ1000R1 ELR was on of the 17 bikes that was used at the California Superbike School through the 1982-1983 riding season. My cousin that lived in Huntington Beach Purchased the bike in 1989 and I got it in 2001. I since sold it to a collector in Ohio. I believe there might be a picture of Wes Cooley on the bike. (Those that know will understand why that is funny)

 

That is pretty much how they are designed to function.