:-D SHES PURRRRRRING NOW!!!! Now to fuel air mixture

Alright!!!!! Thanks everybody for helping me through this spectacular experience. I am finally getting somewhere. It's a great feeling when you take a ten year hibernator and get the heart back right again. I just did my vacuum sync and she is purring like a kitten at 1000rpms. javascript:emoticon('post', 'message', '')

Now I guess I need to get her fuel mixture right right? (These bike do adjust fuel to air I'm assuming) I have a rack of questions about that too. I have watched several youtube videos and am perplexed. I do not own a colortune (would love to own one but may have to get on the Christmas list) so, old fashion way? I think and you correct me if I'm wrong, but should I do one at a time, starting with number one, turn the screw out 1 and 1/2 times and start checking plug after running to see if its wet or dry, smells like gas or what is the proper way to go about this. As always, I humbly appreciate any help.

 

Bring that idle up to 1200rpm.

What you're describing is the "idle drop method" of mixture tuning by ear. Doing it on a running 4-cylinder can take quite a bit of doing.

Where are the mixtures set now? I'd start by putting a few miles on it and checking the plugs; any subsequent tweaking may only need be minor. (And that's why a ColorTune comes in handy.)

 

Thanks fitz. Once again you've gotten me to slow my roll. In that case maybe I should start a new thread, because break and tire conditions are in no way ready to put any miles on the bike. I'll be back after I get a MC kit and brake lines. Also, can you tell me what I'm looking for with the rear brake delamination. Thanks.

 

Sure; have a look: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

Take a dull box knife and dig at the edges of the shoes where they're glued. If you can get them to peel away, they were about to delaminate.

 

yep, that was pretty hairy looking. I'm gonna check mine right now and order new to replace. Thanks fitz. Is there any concern for the front brake pads. Mine "look" brand new but of course they're not. Just wondering if the lines are new, the mc rebuilt and caliper working, should the pads be ok. I gonna replace them anyway, just curious. BTW, I saw on that thread in your link that there were recalls and failing shoes due to delamination quite often per Ace_Freley's comment. Is there a brand that I can count on to be MORE reliable? Oh yeah, and what is the purpose of the 'joint' in the 2 piece brake line for the front? Sorry, I know i'm blasting a bunch of questions on a thread that didn't even begin about brakes.

 

OK, just found a thread. So I can safely bypass the joint?

 

You can, but you really shouldn't.........the joint is hard metal, and won't ever expand (like a brake line does).........the ideal brake line (like is cars) is a solid steel tube as much as is possible (like the front-to-rear brake line of cars/trucks)........rubber or braided s/s hoses are necessary for suspension flex, but you want to use as little of that material as is possible!