Bottom Stanchion Leaking after Rebuild

I just finished a complete rebuild of my front end...seals, bearings, springs, and brakes.....took the bike down the driveway and back to check things out and noticed a small puddle near my front tire. Upon further inspection I saw the oil was leaking from the bottom of the stanchion (where the allen bolt is at).
I'm pretty sure I know the answer (because I've already tried tightening the bolt....it just spins)...Is there any way to tighten up this connection without a complete disassembly?

Thanks
Pat

 

You could try putting the spring on it's hardest setting and get someone to push down on the forks while the bike is off the centrestand while you tighten the bolt.
Might just work. :idea:

 

Agreed. You could also use some tie down straps (nylons with the whole ratcheting thing). Compress the front end (triple tree to wheel axle or inside of the rotors etc...) and try to get the allen wrench in there to tighten it up.

 

I assume your not missing the copper pressure washer? torque spec met?

 

Copper pressure washer? I tried to keep all parts in order and cleaned one at a time....but to be perfectly honest...I don't remember.
Better safe than sorry...I guess I'll be pulling things apart tonight...will I need to break the seals?....can they be saved (they're brand new)? Or will I need new ones$$$$?
Thanks for the quick responses.
Pat

 

Should be able to pull it apart without replacing the seals. You don't even need to pull the tube, you should be able to just take out the spring and slide your nut holding tool or whatever down inside. I'd recommend new fork oil as you're going to need to drain it anyways.

 

I agree with last post ..... seems like the best approach but I've only rebuilt my forks once.

 

What everyone is trying to explain is that the screw in question goes into the bottom of the damper rod; and that the screw should have a "sealing" washer of some sort (copper or aluminum) on it.

To tighten it, you need to hold the damper rod from the inside. This will require the use of a long tool of some sort with a 19mm hex end. There are many different ways to accomplish this; I use a sparkplug socket that has a 19mm hex on its "butt" flipped over and stuck on all of the extensions in my tool box. Others have used a long piece of threaded rod with a 19mm nut welded or "double-nutted" on the end.

Doubtful that loading the fork springs will exert enough of any sort of force on the damper rod to keep it from turning.

 

Thanks...always appreciate a "BigFitz" weigh in...

Yeah, I use the upside-down sparkplug socket method.
BTW, I tried loading the forks...made no difference...so, I'll pull it apart.

One last question....will I be able to get to the crush washer (copper or otherwise) with the forks still attached to the triple tree? In other words without pulling the fork halves a part?

P

 

It depends on what style forks you have; on some of them the axle will get in the way. Regardless, you shouldn't have to pull the forks.