Bike dies at highway speeds... and at low speeds

Last Sunday, I was driving back from a friend's house at night when my bike suddenly died at 60 mph. As I downshifted and pulled onto the shoulder, it then started up again and was fine. 10 miles later, it did the same thing, this time as I left a stop sign. Once I downshifted to 1st, it then started again and I managed to get home.

Today, it did the same thing many times (with a full tank of fresh gas, I'll add) at various speeds.

A month or so ago, my starter wouldn't work, and when I played with my fuses, the problem went away. As a result, I had it in my mind that the problem could be just around an old fuse box with flaky tube fuses and connections. Yesterday, I cleaned the metal in my fusebox and sprayed some electrical cleaner. Obviously, this didn't help.

I'm ready to replace my fusebox with an updated blade style tomorrow, but how can I diagnose that my problem does not lie elsewhere? I assume it's either gas or electrical, and could my petcock just need to be rebuilt, or could some little foreign debris in the tank be blocking the outlet sporadically to cause this problem?

Thanks for any input.

 

Sounds to me that your fuse box is the problem. Replace it and go from there. Could be something else but fix one problem at a time.

 

First I would check the petcock to make sure it is working properly. And if this is any consolation,years ago my brother had a brand new truck that did just that. would die whenever. When he finally sent it to the dealer. they found cigarette butts in his tank. thus under vacuum to pull fuel to carb it would run out of gas. once it died the butt would float away for another try later.

 

If it just "Cuts-right-out" ... it leans toward being an Electrical / Ignition related issue.
A New (modern) Fuse Panel is one of our most recommended solutions to Electrical related gremlins.

Fuel Starvation usually "Introduces" itself without feeling like you hit the Kill Switch.
If you think its the Petc0ck, ... when the Bike acts-up ... try switching the Petc0ck to PRI (Prime) ... and see if it regains making power again.

There are a number of reasons why the Bike can become Fuel Starved.

Petc0ck
Petc0ck Filter Screen
Gas Cap
Fuel Line kinks
Cheap Gas Filter
Air-bound Gas Filter
Beenie-Screens Clogged
Float Heights incorrect.

 

No offence, are your battery leads tight? You wouldn't be the first..

 

Wouldn't be a bad thing to replace your fusebox regardless. It's an inexpensive upgrade from the original. Len has them along with the matching colored wire leads complete with instructions!! I got one with with six fuses so I have two extra...one of which is used for a 12v power outlet, the other just has a spare fuse in it.






This was the original.



PM Chacal!!! He'll hook you up!!

 

SIDESTAND SWITCH.

 

Thank you everyone for the input. REALLY. I think Rick has a point - if it was a fuel issue, it wouldn't complete cut out the way it does. I will go ahead and change out my fuse box, but would not be surprised if it was my sidestand switch as Fitz suggests, only because I see how slowly that switch retracts when I put the stand up. I'll clean that switch out as well. I'll update this posting to let everyone know if it solves it.

 

I had mismatched flow fuel levels, and the bike did stall suddenly and without any sort of gradual sputtering or bogging.

 

I am happy to report that replacing the old fuse box and lubricating/cleaning out the sidestand switch appears to of cured the problem. I put 50 miles or so on her yesterday, and no stalls.

Here's the old box:


And here's the new box:


I did have to put an extension on the short, main wire, but was able to use the rest of them. You are tight on space there... The fuse box came from O'Reilly autoparts, 15A, same as shown in the FAQ. NAPA had a 30A, 4 slot in its catalog, but they didn't have it in stock. After I removed the old box, the terminals would break off when I squeezed them together, so it was due for replacement. Of course, I hedged my bets with cleaning the sidestand switch as well.

Thanks for all who took the time to offer input.

 

I had both (fusebox and sidestand switch) happening to me at the same time with my '81. It was one of the things that led me to this forum.

Those fuse clips can break all by themselves even if you don't touch them.

It's fixed (until the sidestand switch starts acting up again.) Carefully examine the rubber boot on the sidestand switch; if it's split it will be sensitive to puddles. If it's simply cracked between the bellows get it good and clean and apply a DROP of CA (super glue.) Works great on rubber.

 

You need to insulate those Terminals.

Heat Shrink is easy to do.

Liquid Electrical Tape is effective.

If you go the L-E-T route ... cut the dabber off the Cap.
Pour-out a Dime-sized drop on a 3X5 Card and brush-on using an Artist Brush.

 

I do have heat shrink covering the connection between the connectors and the wires. I didn't think I need it to cover the actual connection with the fusebox..?

 

Glad you had an easy fix. My project started because mine dies at various speeds but acts like it's starving for fuel. Happens more often when I get on the gas. So completely disassembling, cleaning and rebuilding the carbs and adjusting the valve shims. So much stuff to replace to fix gas and vacuum leaks.

 

Yes, cover those terminals. They've got 12V running through them, if they contact the ground (frame) for any reason (movement, you leave a screw driver under your seat), you're gonna get a short and (hopefully) pop a fuse. You won't pop a fuse on the 12V from the battery, you just spark and start a fire.

 

Congrats on finding the solution! There are quite a few incredibly knowledgeable people on here & Rick & Fitz are especially knowledgeable and happy to share their experience.

My suggestion would have been to look at your fuel line and see if it was kinked. I remember having the same kind of issue as you did and while I was on the side of the road waiting for AAA I noticed the fuel line was doubled over as I'd switched from the original to a generic & clear blue fuel line that doubled over without adapting to the tank being seated back down. It was like a garden hose that got kinked and there was a bit of time required for it to let enough fuel pass to start the bike and then quit after a short bit.

Gary