Clutch plate materials

I think going to have to replace these pretty soon. Was wondering if anybody had feedback about the different materials they come in?

Kevlar, Carbon, stock?


Also going to change the springs and cables while working on the clutch.

And also replace the screws for Allen key ones.

Anything else you guys think off that would be time/money saver for this project?

 

Stock/aftermarket is fine unless you're racing.

Use the "real" clutch pressure bolts and washers; don't try to replace them with alternative fasteners. I would recommend replacing them though.

Have a new gasket handy.

 

Nope not racing.
So will go stock.
And was refering to exterior bolts to hold the clutch cover. Not the pressure ones.
I will do the pressure springs, plates and clutch cable. as well as stainles steel Clutch Cover Bolts.

 

OK... did a little more research... saw it says to soak the clutch plates 24-48 hours in oil BEFORE putting them in... That sound right to you guys?

And to use 20w40 oil...

 

DO replace the pressure plate bolts; the originals tend to break very easily.

YES soak the clutch parts in clean motor oil; 24 ~ 48 hours is a tad excessive, an hour or two will do.

It says use 20W40 because that is the recommended oil for your XJ; 20W50 is fine too. Be sure you're using motorcycle-specific oil (not just for this, in the bike too.)

 

also make sure to measure the thickness of the steel plates between the clutches. And also make sure that they are not warped.

I found that two of mine were worn too thin and one was warped, when I replaced my clutches.

But, If you plan on replacing then anyway, then don't bother.....

 

I'm thinking about just replacing them too since I had budgeted for more expensive kevlar plates... might as well use the savings to get new steel plates too.

Is this required? nice to have? or waste of money?
http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-CT008- ... uctDetails

 

Not to Reline the Clutches.
Handy when removing the Basket.

Judge weather of not to replace the Driving Plates after you have inspected them.

Burned. Scratched. Hammered. Warped.
You replace those.

During the season, ... you can find Whole Kits w/ Springs and Hardware on Sale.

 

Just came across your post, so figured I'd mention it.
I dont know if the 750 and the 1100 used the same parts, but I just listed a complete Clutch rebuild kit, in the classified section...

 

Ebc cork discs

Soak in fresh oil while taking apart old clutch prior to assembly.

Refurbish plain plates with scotch brite pads

Buy and install NEW legit clutch basket bolts.

From the dealer there're only like 1.75 a piece from the dealership and so no shipping so cheaper than online

I replaced the stock springs with new ebc stiffer springs

I just used black rtv on the clutch cover and haven't had a single leak since.

Be SURE to use a torque wrench throughout, the torque settings are pretty low, and manyyyy people have done that therefore having to replace the whole basket

 

Check out powersports superstore, best price on ebc kits an springs ANYWHERE.

 

Picking up some oil tomorrow and looking for a good torque wrench as to avoid breaking anything.

Will try and get the work done this weekend.

 

Yeah that tool from amazon you mention would work great for removing the basket. Or just make yourself a tool using two used friction plates and a steel plate in between, all riveted together. Fitz was helpful in that regard when I needed to replace my basket. Thanks again Fitz

 

You're more than welcome.

nycxj750 I'll answer your torque wrench question here, rather than in the "how-to."

For working on these bikes, you need two torque wrenches. One in the 10 ft/lb ~ 100 ft/lb range; and one "low range" 25 in/lb ~ 250 in/lb (that's INCH pounds.) If you work on cars, you probably already have the heavier one. But for clutches and case bolts and other under 10 ft/lb stuff, you need a micro-torque wrench.

I have a couple of low-range torque wrenches, a Craftsman "Microtork" which is their model 31423 these days: http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-micr ... ockType=G4

and a K-D Tools #3459



I think K-D actually made the Craftsman (at least they did 20+ years ago.)

 

Bigfitz52 I'll have to check around to see where I can find a craftsman.

Before your post I had just seen this one online:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth ... h-807.html

 

harbor freight ain't that great (speaking from experience... I couldn't really feel or hear the clicks at certain torque specs)

 

I figuered as much with those cheap prices... which is why going to stick with the recomendations since some people here have forgotten more about bikes than I will ever know in my life.

Going to try to go to the bronx to pick one of the craftsman up. store up there is listed as having them.

 

That particular HF wrench is about useless anyway; too high of a range for small stuff; doesn't go high enough for the big stuff.

Remember that even the best torque wrench isn't very accurate at the bottom of its range. You don't want to try and measure 5.8 ft/lb with a wrench that goes from 5 to 80.

That's why I recommend two, you really need an inch/pound wrench for the small stuff.

 

Ok so I got a 20/200 in/lbs.

Now just to be clear. if for example something says 8ft/lbs

I would dial up to 96 in/lbs in my 20/200 in/lbs correct?

Sorry about the dumb question... but I'm more computer sav than mechanical... once I feel comfortable with the mechanical side of the bike... going to see about building a computer board for it based on a Raspberry Pi with bluetooth and wifi built in. I know... you are going to say why... well if i can get the code done like I want... i should be able to have the bike tell my cell phone whats wrong as soon as i turn the power on the bike on and even before i try to start it.

 

Correct.