fixed

well i almost gave up. so im gonna post this in hopes it helps somebody else, me being a (backyardy) didnt know nothin when she sputered and bogged, so bad id hafta take off from light at 3500, sparks were sooty, so i took carbs off and (sorta cleaned them,) put it all back together and then she went from cold to when she was warm right to 4000 rpm, so i leaned it out and messed with idle/air screws to almost one turn out..didnt help..then i stripped a sparkplug hole,,my last post on here was despair to say the least lol. im not one to give up,,so got a thread chaser, to my suprise it worked, grease, turn turn back out clean regrease..repeat,,took a shop vac and taped a burger king straw to it to clean it out and for good measure cranked it over without plug to blow anything else i miseed,, now back to idling high, took carbs off with knowledge and better informed than last time, i took caps off, cleaned those jets on the top, they were filthy, took all idle jets off cleaned, cleaned everything every port, everything, one at a time so as i didnt have parts all over the place, then bamm i found out why my idle was so high, the stupid spring on main idle srew in the back was binded and wouldnt turn so i was thinkin idle screw was backed out all the way, doh,! unbeleivable, a chunk of metal a 8th of a mm could mess with my head so badly, so wd40. i popped it off the stick and made sure shes free, then i did a bench sync with a needle, found out most important part about bench syncing is make sure you sync the 3rd carb that runs off main idle screw i cleaned idle/air screws and set them to 2 and a half turns out, put it back together, knowing id hafta set idle properly, primed to fill bowls and crossed fingers, low and behold she needed choke to start..im thinkin good sign,, she sparked up,, ran up to 3500 with choke rpm needle solid, ok moment of truth time..i backed off choke,,,she purred like a kittten 1150! took her for a ride tonight,,and at lights shes just purrin away at 1150 rpm the whole time with sooo much power its crazy,, she sparks up one turn when hot, i have an actuall motorbike! i hope this helps somebody with one of these issues,, sometimes its the most stupidest thing that will shut you down, peace,,i'm goin ridin lol

 

Shaddup and get riding! lol!

Nice job, Dave. Glad you stuck with it!

 

thnx man, wowza tough learning curve, specially cause my car blew up on me so shes my only ride right now,

 

Well done!

well i almost gave up. so im gonna post this in hopes it helps somebody else, me being a (backyardy) didnt know nothin when she sputered and bogged, so bad id hafta take off from light at 3500, sparks were sooty, so i took carbs off and (sorta cleaned them,) put it all back together and then she went from cold to when she was warm right to 4000 rpm, so i leaned it out and messed with idle/air screws to almost one turn out..didnt help

enough said :wink:

 

now don't that feel good!

 

225 kmh one tank,(and still goin) compared to 95.. hell ya, i need to fine it up a little bit pfft, thats nuthin bruh. lol.. i'm a happy 1985 maxim xj 700n maxim owner with 88,580 kmh

 

oh should mention compression is 130-137 across the board, and yes..checked back brakes after checkin these forums, cause after reading these forums. they will have you tearin your bike apart, brakes are just fine, valves are just fine,, what? really? you guys scare noobs, i dont like new mechanics, get back to basics and stop talkin about f***in valves,, cause sometimes..(most times its not) go with your gut guys,, i did, these guys told me it was valves,,so in mid season im gonna do a valve job? really? i think this site has too much crap and not enuff real world info

 

Nobody told you to do a valve JOB. It was suggested that you check your valve clearances...which is BASIC regular maintenance that's necessary in order to properly tune and for the health of the motor. It needs to be done...it'll only take about an hour.

 

Hey Davek,

Glad you got sorted, I also feel that sometimes there is a bit too much information out there, but the guys here know their stuff. You got lucky and you realized what the problem was when you saw it. A lot of the noobs don't know what their looking at! So all info is good, but knowing which to take on board is the trick.

Personally, I read lots, then decide what needs doing, this works for me. :wink:

 

And if you haven't checked your valve clearances as we suggested, you need to do so and soon. The motor will seem fine right up until the day it won't run anymore; then it will be too late.

A valve JOB is what you're trying to avoid by maintaining your valve clearances.

It needs to be done at the factory-recommended intervals. We don't just make stuff up.

 

yep gunna check valve clearences this winter, among other things, gunna replace valve cvr gasket cause i noticed fresh oil..(not much) but enuff to be concerned, so good excuse to get in there. then she should be good for somebody to buy and ride for nxt season, hence needing tires, gotta leave something for the new owner lol,,along with bill of sale i will be leavin him this website addy lol.240kmh,,and still purrin like a kitten,,she takes a bit to come down after revvin,,is that the sliders? and if so whats a good lube for that?

 

also im gonna add, that the signal lights worked (sometimes), most times not, so took apart bar assembly, all gooey on slider, carb cleaner (all i had with me) tooth brush, and wd40..works like a charm now, lmao, all a guy really needs is carb cleaner,wd40, a pair of vice grips and a box of beer ! lol im seriously impressed on how fast these bikes are, i took off from a light and really goosed it,,front tire got super light, cruisers arent supposed to do that! lol

 

Hanging idle is generally NOT because of the slides. They don't require lubrication.

Hanging idle usually indicates an out of sync condition.

You need to do a running vacuum sync. For that the valves need to be in spec.

Fitz out.