New tire is a tight fit.

XJ700x, new tire is a Shinko 712, 130-90-16 all spacers are in and right but this thing is nearly scratching the drive shaft. The old tire was a metzler 880 and had only 1/8 in clearance this thing is tighter yet. Tight enough that when I put in a piece of fine sandpaper btween tire and shaft I had some rubbing. Are the Shinkos wider? Thinking about buying a different tire, what is the thinnest 130/90/16 out there or where can I get this info?????

 

A 130 tire is supposed to be 130mm wide at the side wall. Unfortunately different manufacturers measure them different places so there can be some variation.

So long as it isn't actually rubbing I don't think I'd worry about it.

 

130/90-16 G528 BS Bridgestone

The Book says 130/90-16 those are Tire Spec Numbers Standard throughout the Industry.

The Walls of the Tire shouldn't be scraping on anything, though.

Look at the Exploded View of the Rear-End on this site.
There's several SPACERS and WASHERS that keep the Rear Wheel Positioned.
See if you put it together the way the Drawing shows;

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx

 

my kenda tire has a kind of a lip where the tread meets the sidewall and it's about the width of a paper clip from touching but it never has and the tire's about wore out
keep a eye on it till your sure it's ok

 

Ditto on my kenda as well, its very close, but it doesnt touch

 

Alright sounds kinda normal then, The Shinko also has a lip on it, and it is about a paperclip width away from touching as well. Have put on a couple hundred miles and no probs yet, will keep an eye on it though. Thanks fellas much appreciated.

 

You know the "Old saying" bout things Mechanical that are built to precision standards:

"A miss is as good as a mile."

But, if you accept that Tire and start pushing some turns and it rubs. I doubt you are going to be able to return it with a scuffed sidewall.

The Rear Tire Left-side Sidewall -to- Swingarm clearance on my XJ-750 Maxim is 6cm's (1/4 Inch) at the closest point to the Swinger.

 

You are right Rick, but this is a tire I specifically ordered and I am pretty much well stuck with it. The good thing is that its not the sidewall that would rub but actually the side of the tread. I may look into that 528 Bridgestone tire as I am not sure how happy I am with this tire....

 

i've heard good reviews from the shinko. i'm thinking of ordering myself. the local shops want $450 for new tread on my suzuki. tires, tubes, and labor. since i don't have a jack to take the tires off myself.

 

I do the rear on the center stand. put the centerstand on a stack of 2x4's if I'm doing an oversized that doesn't want to weasel into the fender properly. for fronts I tie my front end to the ceiling with a ratchet strap.
no lift? no problem.
don't ask me how I do both at once, that one's a trade secret.

 

For the price, I think they are pretty good.

 

if i had a centerstand that would be no problem.

cruiser bikes haven't had centerstands for quite some time now. don't know if sport bikes are still being equipped with them.

i have a small jack i put underneath one of the front forks. if i had a centerstand.

 

My rear tire was 75 bucks installed, 450 sounds a bit extreme.

 

I just put a Shinko 712 on my XJ650 and I noticed it's tight too. Long as it doesn't contact, I don't care.

Tire shoulder widths do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer...aspect numbers have more to do with the carcass size than actual tread physical width.

You see this a lot in car tires...you can have up to an inch or more difference in shoulder width from one tire to another make.

 

BTW I got that Shinko for $56, and mounted myself. Very happy with it thus far...

 

56 bucks is a steal, Somebody call the police!

 

So wait a sec. I also picked up this same tire (Shinko 712, 130-90-16) and had in mounted for $75. I'm no bike mechanic, and this is the first bike I've ever attempted to work on myself, but when I put the wheel and new tire back on, it was so tight that I couldn't even turn the wheel by hand. All I did to fix that was loosen the nut on the axle and the clamp on the swing arm and pushed the axle over to the right a little and tightened the clamp and then the nut on the axle just enough to be snug and get the cotter pin in place and the tire clears the drive shaft just fine now....

Is this not the way to put the rear wheel on?

 

rear wheel castle nut torque.....77 ft lbs

 

Heh...talking about this made me go take a closer look at mine...

There IS actually slight contact with the edge of the tread shoulder on the drive tube...it wore a couple of millimeters off that sharp edge where the tread meets the sidewall.

Doesn't get much tighter than that. It was a very slight contact, I could turn the wheel after installing it and didn't even notice the interference. Anyway, like I said, the contact resolved itself

 

If I understand what you did, you may have a situation where your rear wheel can drift side to side slightly...I don't think I'd want that. Hard on the drive splines.

 

Castle nut should be tightened to 77lbs before clamp is tightened on the other side.

 

Thank You!
I had the tire cut down today to fix the clearance issues. Now I can get a piece of heavy emery cloth between the tire and the drive shaft tube. I just have to figure out what I did to the breaks cause now the drag really bad...

 

Just to be clear, i think Rick meant 6MM (1/4 inch) not 6cm

 

I sent Shinko a message, letting them know about the issue on these bikes. The reply was quick, but not very concerned. I guess they don't see it as a problem. I don't either, but I'd think they want to make note and perhaps alter it if they do a redesign or something at some point.

Hi.

I recently purchased a Shinko 712 rear 130/90/16 for my 1983 Yamaha XJ650 Maxim.

After installation I noticed it was in slight contact with the driveshaft tube, barely brushing it where the tread cap joins the sidewall, right at that sharp edge on the shoulder of the tire. It wore down and now runs in zero gap relation to the drive tube, I don't see any issues that should stem from it.

But I thought you should be aware of it, as I found many references to the same problem with 712's on the Yamaha XJ owner's site.

Thanks.


Reply:

Hi Larry,
Thanks for the information. It seems that many tire manufacturers tolerances will vary some on height and width. I do not see that you should have any problems.

Thank you,


Scott Casper
Western Power Sports
Street Product Manager
Shinko Tire Tech and Development
601 E. Gowen Rd
Boise, Idaho 83716
Phone (208)376-8400 ext. 3404
Fax (208)375-8901

 

as long as everything works. they dont' care. it's when things don't work and people start getting killed. then the shit hits the fan.

kinda like that toyota thing.

 

Boy does that look familiar! I have put on nearly 800 miles without any trouble, but would still like more clearance.

 

Just noticed the other day my Shinko 130 rear is rubbing on the Drive shaft. How concerned should I be that the tire rubs up against the shaft? Heat build up? Where there was the widest part of the sidewall, I can clearly see where it has been rubbed down from operation. On the center stand the rear wheel spins, however, I can feel where it is rubbing i'll try and post pictures tomorrow.

Castle nut was torqued to spec before RH side pinch bolt was tightened. What should I consider doing to create more space?

 

It's close for my conti-go as well, - it doesn't concern me though, with 10k plus miles and 2 tires the same way, i just leave it be.

 

NECROOOO!!!!

 

You can grind a bit off the inner surface of the swing-arm, or use a spacer.

Here's a previous thread that details how to space it:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=3 ... tml#364323

I've done both to insure proper clearance.

 

I got the Shinko 712's and put them on the my 82XJ750J.
The rear tire does not rub and has less than 1/8 clearance from the drive shaft housing. The front feels strange with the straight center groove.
Interesting ......130mm= 5.118". The Shinko is 5.42" wide- about 137mm.
The D404 I had was about 5.1 wide-about 130mm. The old Dunlop qualifier I had was 5.5" wide-about 139mm. All supposedly 130mm tires.

Maz