Clutch slipping

I guess I need to replace my clutch plates.
Do I need to buy the tool described to replace these, or can it be done without it?
The tool costs more than the plates lol

Thanks in advance for any info

1985 Maxin xj700
34,000 miles
just replaced valve shims about a month ago

 

Gonna need a new clutch cover gasket and thats about it.
New springs, new bolts, new Friction Plates.
That should just about do it. You WILL need a torque wrench though. I think it was like.. 9lbs?

 

No you don't need the special tool, its only needed to remove the inner part of the clutch basket. You only need to remove the outer to replace the clutch plates.
Definetly get new springs when installing new friction plates. They are the cause of most clutch slippage problems.

 

Give this a read: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html

Your clutch will be simpler; you don't have asymmetric, "tabbed" plain plates or a special friction disc/clutch boss spring to worry about, yours is just steel plates and friction plates. All the other principles and procedures are the same.

 

On a related topic (not hijacking the tread here!), could someone tell me the usual symptoms that tell a person that it's time to replace their clutch? Is it just basic slipping when shifting that gradually gets worse and worse?

I saw a Maxim 400 for sale that said the clutch was starting to slip, and I just don't want to mistake something worse for a simple clutch plate replacement.

 

Pretty much. You don't usually notice it at first while shifting; what generally happens is that when you hit the powerband it will slip then re-engage, often well after shifting into whatever gear you're in.

It will show up when shifting, sure; but it will usually have been giving "clues" beforehand.

Also, generally speaking, it's usually just a case of an original clutch needing to be rebuilt (friction plates & springs.) Excessive wear/damage to the hub and/or basket usually only shows up in relatively high-mileage bikes.

 

Awesome, thanks for all the info.
Its nice to have experienced help a few clicks on the keyboard away

Another quick question...
What brand should I buy?
From what I can tell, the price is anywhere from 35.00 for EBC Heavy Duty to 120.00 for Barnett Kevlar friction Plates... ??
Is there that much of a difference in them?

Ron

 

Only if you're planning on going racing.

Aftermarket friction plates (EBC, K & L, etc) are fine, the brand-names are usually better than stock anyway. I'd avoid no-name eBay stuff.

You'll need to take Scotchbrite to the plain plates and get rid of the "memories" of the old friction plates; but as long as they aren't burnt blue or warped they can be re-used.

REPLACE the springs AND BOLTS. Get real bolts, from XJ4Ever or from Yamaha, not from the hardware store.

Be sure to soak all of the new parts in oil beforehand, especially the friction plates.

Most importantly, take your time and be patient and careful.

 

am gonna get them from XJ4Ever

 

1985 xj700 air head.
Do I need the secondary friction plate, or just 8 primary friction plates?
Im thinking of going with the after market high performance ones.

Is this what I need?
7 primary friction plates
1 secondary friction plate
6 springs
6 bolts
6 washers
clutch cover gasket

 

Check with chacal I don't think your clutch uses the secondary friction plate.

 

from what I can figure out, the secondary is needed if I get the high performace after market set.
with the regular OEM it say secondary isnt needed but with high performance ones it is...
unless Im misunderstanding what it says???
Wouldn't be the first time I was wrong lol

 

SEND THE MAN A PM.

Or an email. You have to do that to order from him anyway. He'll ensure you get the correct parts.

 

I sent him a pm and am waiting for a reply

I worked all night.. 12 hours.
And my brain is about fried - think I better get some sleep lol

 

Chacal is great for orders. specially if you are not sure what you need or its a hard to find part.

 

Whats more, you KNOW you'll get the correct parts.

 

Since this seems to be the post about clutch issues...
How often should you lubricate the cable... and can you used WD40 or does it have to be something specifically for clutch cable?

 

I lubricate all my cables once a year at the beginning of the riding season.

DO NOT USE WD40. It is NOT a lubricant, it is made for displacing water. It will gum up when exposed to the heat from the motor and can cause a sticky, binding cable.

You want to use a good quality (auto parts or industrial, not hardware-store) high-temp capable lube or even motor oil.

I use Tri-Flow (spray) myself, with a cable-luber.

 

I got a cable lube tool this year, and I can't believe I went all these years without this $5 device..or that I wasn't around when Fitz was given his.

 

I got the luber tool... just need to get the lube spray now.
Bigfitz52 you use the Tri-Flow (spray on your, choke, clutch and break cables?

What do you use if you do use anything on Tach cable?

 

Yes, Tri-Flow for control cables.

Tach cable gets motor oil (because it is in actual contact with the cylinder head it gets even hotter at the one end.)

I generally use Tri-Flow in the speedo cable too, but with a dollop of grease at the bottom end. (Motor oil works fine in the speedo cable too.)