carb repair kit info

okay i have pulled the carbs off my bike once again due to a recent stalling issue, my float levels were off (even though i had set them a few months back grrr.....) and there was a strange build up in the bowls as well. cleaned every thing up and this time i was finally able to remove my floats! even though all the previous times i was unable to remove them. (setting them was a real PITA with them still attached but i made due.

so any ways now that i am able to get them off, i was thinking that i might want to buy a good rebuild kit that includes a lot of pieces and for a good price obviously. i want a kit that has more than just the bowl gasket, needle and o rings. maybe some thing that come with jets and emulsion tubes too? basically i wouldnt mind replacing all of the removable parts (minus the floats and diaphragms) and you might be thinking that this is over kill but a lot of my parts are striped and are a big ordeal to remove, or unable to remove with out damaging.

so begin with the link postings and recommendations!

 

XJ4ever.
Chacal can tell you everything you'll need and might need. He can also give you instruction on what to do. One stop shopping. GREAT service. Speedy delivery.
Just click on the banner in the upper right corner.

 

Mikunis can be a bit of a pain. They reward precision.

One thing that will appear to be a float issue is failing o-rings on the outside of the float valve seats.

Plus the float level spec is really tight and quite important.

Have you seen this? http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31061.html

 

I've done some looking around and couldn't find any comprehensive kits that cover everything you want so I'm pretty sure you would have to order some of the pieces separately. If you have the $$ I always recommend chacal but for tighter budget situations I've had good luck with these guys:

http://jetsrus.com/individual_parts/KL_18_5099.html

That should be the link to the basic cab kit but they supply all the other parts you're looking at too.

I got your pic of all that crud in the float bowl screens.. just nasty!! 8O Glad to hear you've got an inline filter ready to go. Didn't you do some kind of treatment to the inside of your tank.. just wondering if that's where the gunk came from?

 

yah im fairly certain that the crud was some left over evaporust in the tank, even though i thought i removed it all, but the carbs have now all been cleaned i just have to readjust the float levels again. the o rings on the valve seats seemed fine to me, not loose or corroded at all. ill check out that jet site you gave me ted, and i will have to double check my gasket kit that i got and see if it has valve seat orings, i know it came with a bunch of tiny orings.

here is a picture of the crude that was under my valve seats and in my float bowls.

 

Looking-down into the Fuel Gallery exposed in the photo, ... I'd say you should:

Separate the No.-1 Carb from No.-2.
Pull the Tee from whichever one it sticks too.
Scrub the whole Fuel Gallery with a Nylon Test Tube Cleaning Brush.

You can get Viton Metric 0-rings from the Plumbing Section of a TruValue Hdwe. Store.

(Carefully remove one. Bring it and the Tee to the store.)

 

thanks guys, thinking about it more i might just get a standard kit, like the one Ted linked me, and then just replace the pilot jets for now, as they are the worst of the bunch as far as being stripped goes. the hard part would just be getting them out first to replace them.

thanks for that exploded view fitz, i know have it saved so i can look at it when ever i need to.

 

alrighty so after i cleaned every thing up and got it back together, to check the float heights. but i just wanted to double check the method of how to do this...

so i have my carbs on my stand, set the petcock to prime, insert the hose to the drain and unscrew the drain screw. the level in the hose should indicate weather the float height needs to be raised or lowered correct?

and on float height adjustments... ive read (http://www.xj4ever.com/setting%20fuel%20levels.pdf) this numerous times but i keep getting confused. so can some one please put it in laymans terms for me. most of my levels are too high so i need to adjust the tang down, away from the carb body to decrease the fuel level? or do i have it all backwards?

 

You have it backwards, moving the tang down will provide more space for the fuel, increasing the volume and fuel level. You need to move the tang up (when looking at the carbs upright and level) to decrease the fuel level.

Go back and re-read the pdf, pages 5-6. You could always experiment and try it both ways to have it sink in your mind

 

thanks sektorgaz! its just confusing with the ups meaning down and down meaning ups, i start to confuse my self the more i read it, lol

 

ok so i got one of these kits here but im not sure what all of these pieces are, or even if they go to my carbs (universal set?)

so clearly i know the bowl gasket, needle, seat and seat oring. but what are the other small orings for and the small cylinder with the tiny hole running through the center? i check the exploded view that fitz provided but dont see these other parts anywhere. i just wanna make sure that i replace everything that i can before i bolt it all back together.

 

The small o-ring is supposed to fit the mixture screw, but it doesn't..........

The larger o-ring is supposed to fit the bowl drain screw, but it doesn't either....

The metal plug is supposed to be used to seal off the mixture screw port, and it fits fine, but.............you really DON'T want to use it!

 

Bending the tang down doesn't "provide more space for the fuel"; it increases the distance between the needle and the seat. More fuel has to enter the bowl to lift the needle high enough to cut off the flow, so the fuel level is higher.

I think this is the part that's confusing him. Remember, when we do wet-setting, we're measuring the distance between the fuel level in the bowl and the edge of the carb body. If the float tang is bent down, the fuel level in the bowl rises; that means the measurement -- the distance between the fuel and the bottom of the carb body -- decreases.

Conversely, if one bends the tang upwards, less fuel enters the bowl. The fuel level in the bowl drops; the measurement -- the distance between the fuel and the bottom of the carb body -- increases.