New to motorcycles. Having a few issues.

I have just purchased a 1980 xj650 maxim. I've worked on cars for the last 10 yrs so I figured bikes couldn't be that difficult. When I got the bike the intake boots were shot so I found some brand new ones. By the way if anyone needs them they are about $50 each on boats.com. Replaced them and the gaskets and the bike runs a lot smoother. The guy before me tore the airbox apart to make a "glovebox". I have read everyone's thoughts and disgust with the pods but frankly they were cheaper than buying a new airbox, and easier to find. I am having the bike inspected and tires put on tomorrow. I am planning on having the bike rejetted because that's what you guys have said works the best while keeping the pods. I took the bike out for a short test drive (20 min)just to see how it runs and I am having the racing throttle in neutral. I'm going to try and tweak the idle control screw when It comes back from inspection. Also my horn and blinkers do not work at all, headlight and high beam no problem. I haven't taken the control apart yet to see if the connections are still intact. Any help is appreciated.

 

Working on bikes is a whole different ball game, especially with the XJ's they can make a grown man cry... It is very difficult to pinpoint the exact cause of a problem so process of elimination is required.

Pods make it difficult to tune because of all the extra air flow, you are much better off with stock airbox. First and foremost, pick up a good service manual, they are bunch online if you search. Check your valve clearance and make sure they are in spec. You might have an air leak if you get racing throttle at idle, make sure you have vacuum caps that fit snugly, it can also be the throttle shaft seal. Search youtube for how to check for air leaks. Before you start messing with the idle screws, I recommend you pull the carbs and thoroughly clean them. Inspect jets and needles for any damage and look for any holes on the diaphragm. Adjust the floats to spec and polish those piston bores, they make quite a difference in performance. After that, bench sync and put it back on to the bike. Once you've done all that you need to vacuum sync - this is critical if you want a nice steady idle, then finally adjust the idle screws. A good starting point is 2.5 turns out. Good luck!

 

You have a LOT of work to do.

First off, until you're 100% sure the carbs aren't dumping gas into the crankcase, quit riding it. This is a common issue and you can unknowingly damage the motor if the oil has gas in it.

If you're a reasonably qualified "shade tree" mechanic, you can do this; but you're going to need a service manual and realize that it will take some time and a considerable amount of effort to properly recommission the bike.

It's NOT a 1980 Chevy. Whole different set of "rules."

 

Don't bother getting it inspected now. You'll waste your money as it will not pass PA inspection until both of these are rectified.

I disagree with this a bit. An engine is an engine, Fuel, spark, air in the right timing and ratio. that's it..... Older bikes have some slightly different principles than cars, but those principles are mostly related to safety, carburetors, and lack of computer diagnostics. I'd liken it more to working on a 1930's automobile. Also, with cars you can be like "oh, I'll get to looking at those brakes". with bikes it's "I gotta do those brakes before I ride again"

Get yourself a shop manual

PS. read the "new" bike thread in my sig. THAT'S what you need to do. In a car you can skimp on safety and maintenance sometimes. On a bike, skimping on safety and maintenance will potentially kill you. Give you an example, once I put my handlebars back on quickly and went out for a test ride, hit the brakes, and my bars rotated about 20 degrees forward. Nearly topsided....

 

Welcome to the club. I was in your place a couple of years ago, but my bike was--and still is--basically stock. I'm still "tweaking" the carbs and can't imagine having to deal with pods. My advice is to get a service manual (try Ebay), go slow, and follow the advice you get on this site. There are several riders, Fitz, Rick, Chacal and a few others that know these bikes inside and out and have probably experienced most problems you'll have. Finally, I read this forum daily and almost always pick up some good information, sometimes from other folks having the same issues and having found solutions. It can be a pain, but the feel of a well running XJ makes it worth it to me. Good luck.

 

Your electrical problems might be due to your fuse box - did the previous owner bypass any of the fuses? Does it have the old tube style fuses? Those old boxes are problematic, and many of replace them: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=28006.html

I did it myself a few weeks ago as my bike was dying at highway speed for no reason, and that cured it.

 

It's the original fuse CLIPS that are the issue. They crystallize over time and fracture on their own.

 

Yes the previous owner got rid of the fuse box and just as fuses taped in there. Like jumpers.

 

Ok so a shop manual has been order and I put off the inspection. Anyone know where to buy a set of sync gauges. Or anyone have luck making there own? You guys re being more than helpful. This place is great!

 

I made mine using two glass baby bottles, rubber stoppers, and plastic tubing. Even made a little wooden stand for the setup. It works great. You should be able to search "sync gauges" or "Manometer"and find a picture of a similar set up. Someone on this forum probably knows where to find pictures of the one using baby bottles. Here is a 4 bottle setup, but we only need to use two bottles. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaTRyHxvneY
two bottle setup http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PiQBr20kM8
I use auto transmission fluid in mine.

 

Why only two? I have been reading and I thought you had to sync them all to cylinder 3

 

do 1+2, then 3+4... then sync 2+3 (2 brings 1, and 3 brings 4)

 

You do. #3 is "home base."

You can use a two-bottle rig because you can do a "comparative sync." You compare pairs of cylinders to "evolve" the sync, as follows:

Using two bottles, you comparatively sync #1 to #2.

Then you sync #2 to #3; keeping in mind that #2 brings #1 with it. So if you got the 1-2 sync right, when you sync 2 to 3 you've brought #1 along too. At this point it wouldn't hurt to check #1 against #3; but if it's off you need to re-do the 1-2 sync.

Once you've got that over with, #1, #2 and #3 will be in sync. So then you sync #4 to #3. (#4 is independent.)

Done.

Then after any serious mixture tweaking you go back and do it again.

Which is why having a 4-stick manometer makes it soooo much easier.

 

Ok the manual is on its way and decided to break down and buy the sync tool. Gotta wait till next weekend to start syncing but this weekend is all about carb cleaning.

 

Ok Fitz..... I got curious and had to sync your way..... Your way is different than how I was taught...... surprise! It gives better results!

 

It's not my way, it's Yamaha's prescribed procedure. Always works well for me too.

 

Fitz, what is the difference in your method and simply syncing 1 to 2, 3 to 4, then 2 to 3? Seems like we would end up with the same results.

 

tabaka,

Both methods will work & achieve the same results.....I believe my factory service manual indicates 1&2, 3&4, then 2&3.....

 

Ok guys so the tool came in last week and I finally got outside to mess with it. Unfortunately everything was pretty well in sync. All four cylinders immediately were dead even as soon as I fired it up(once warm). I'm confused at what the problem could be. Any suggestions.