Modding out xj will this bar fit?

Ordered a viper fairing shield for my bike got a new rear tire coming in and am gonna change the clutch and brake lever but first need a drag bar with what im trying to customize it to look like but was wondering if this bar would be a good fit on my 83 xj750 midnight maxim? Heres the link:

http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/p1946/buy ... 4Aod0moAMQ

Thanks guys

 

yup

 

Yes and no; it may cause the switch pods to hit the tank and then you'd be looking for risers.

Check this out: http://www.bikemaster.com/handlebars.html

Handlebars come in a whole variety of "bends" those are the most popular. I'm running the "Euro" on my 550 Secas.

Keep in mind that fitting a drastically lower bar will necessitate a shorter clutch cable and upper brake line; generally the throttle and choke cables can be creatively re-routed to eat up the slack.

I also kinda doubt that drag bars will necessarily be compatible with the fairing you just ordered. You might want to hold off until you get the fairing, and then choose a bar that puts you in the proper riding position behind the new fairing.

 

Oh oky thanks didnt think of that do your euro bars look like drag bars? I just want something different then the big bend bars that came stock i was wanting more of a cafe racer look as much as possible

 

The euro bars have slightly more pullback than the drag bars, but should work for the look you're going for - they are pretty low. Check out the pics on the bikemaster site.

 

Good point. You lose some turning radius until you get risers. I still need to buy some. (mines an 85 though, yours might be different.

 

Euro bend on my Seca:




The link I posted is to the bikemaster page with not only the pic of each style but if you scroll down there is a chart with all of the dimensions.

 

I like that look big fitz thats what im going for on mine and yea like said i hope to have a nice riding position ill wait till i get the fairing and see. Quick questions though, are all the grips glued on the bars when removing? If so can i reuse them? How hard are they to get off? Thanks

 

How would i shorten the brake lines that have the crimped bolt end hooked in at each end? Or can i just leave it stock length with shorter euro bar and reroute it around something with zip ties to avoid binding?

 

and they are so much more comfortable. i have the drag bars, euro bars and the superbike ones. they all will give him the look he seems to be after but the ones with some pullback are drastically more comfortable. imo anyways

 

Yeah, pullback is the key for me. Euro didn't quite do it though, so I got some suzuki gs-e bars, 10 inch pullback. Now it's perfect, got rid of the sore upper shoulders and neck after an hours riding and my back is not bent all out of shape now.

 

The "GP Touring" are basically a "taller" Euro bend, I may go with those on my 650.

You can't "shorten the line" what you do is replace the upper line with an appropriately shorter one. When I did my bar swap, I got a custom-length upper hose from XJ4Ever. You could just wind the original hose around the headlight ear or something, but it will look goofy. I like any mod I make to look "factory" like it came that way.

You will probably also need to find a shorter clutch cable; it will need to have the same inner cable-to-outer sheath ratio as your original but be appropriately shorter. Throttle and choke cables can usually be re-routed to eat up the slack.

RE: Removing the grips: the originals weren't glued on. If you're going to re-use the original grips, the RH one can simply stay on since the whole throttle assembly just slides off the bar; and removing the LH one is easiest if you "inflate" it with a burst of compressed air and simply "float" it off.

 

Fitz, I had the GP Touring on my previous X, and being at only 28 inches wide, I had to use 1 inch risers to help make sure the controls cleared the tank at full lock. However, the '85 X does have a steeper steering head angle compared to the Seca 650, so you may not even have an issue. In my case, it probably would have helped if I used shorter than stock length grips (which I didn't). Doing so would have allowed me to move the control switches further towards the bar ends, and would have given me more clearance at full lock.



Nice thing was, being that it wasn't such a drastic change compared to the stock bars, I was able to use the stock cables and brake line.

Just thought you should keep that in mind on your build.