New 82 Maxim 650 owner in need of general advice

New 82 Maxim 650 owner in need of advice
found a great deal on Craigslist for 400 bucks
the ad said the Kick Stand Safety switch needed replacing as well as
carb work
got it home and it would start, not go into gear obviously
but would stall if I revved it
it had been sitting for a year
I knew what I was getting into when starting this project
I was looking for a cheap bike to rebuild
I was talking to a friend and I told him I was going to tear the carbs apart
he told me not too.. and as for the safety switch he told me how to bypass that
so I came home from work today, snipped the safety switch wire and twisted the wires together
drained the old fuel out of the tank, put in fresh premium and some seafoam
within 3 minutes I could rev the engine
within 5 minutes I was able to put it into gear and ride it
it sputtered and back fired a bit
but the more I drove it, the better it ran
up to the point where it drove great, got it up to 55 and in 5th gear easy
and just let it idle no problems
my question is
I am planning on bobbing it
painting, replacing the seat and changing the bars and lights
should I just leave it running as it is now
of course the last thing I will do to the bike is change the fluids and filters
it runs great
should I just leave everything alone and begin my body and cosmetic work?
or tempt fate and mess with it?
any advice would help
thank you

Hotcakes

 

The FIRST thing you need to do is change the oil and filters. And pull the rear wheel so you can visually examine the rear brake shoes for signs of delamination.

Then get the maintenance caught up; things like valve clearances plus service the carbs.

A lot of these bikes will seem to be "fine" when you first get them running but as soon as you try to ride the bike with any regularity you begin to discover issue after issue which generally causes frustration. Things like stuck floats filling the sump with gas, brakes that drag as they get hot, gasket leaks; fun stuff. The 30-year old petrified clutch will begin to slip once back in service. The original fusebox will fall apart if it hasn't already.

You said you knew what you were getting into. So get busy: get the valves in spec and do a compression test. Service the carbs and get them properly adjusted; rebuild the brakes. Rebuild the clutch. Clean up the electrics (no more snipping and twisting together, do it right.) Then worry about the cosmetics. Doing it in reverse can lead to a rude awakening after a whole bunch of cosmetic work has been done. We've seen it many times.

 

First, disregard everything the previous owner has told you. Almost everybody here learned that through experience. Secondly, no matter what you think, the bike is a death trap at this point. Brake lines that were suppose to last 4 years are over 30 years old (check date stamp on lines) master cylinders and calibers need rebuilding as well as new pads. Tires are dry rotted on side walls ( let the air out to find the cracks) original rear brakes shoes are in the process of separating the braking material from the shoe. (imagine that happening at 55mph) and the safety circuits save many an owner from an "aw sh*t."
We all encourage you to spend the money on getting the bike safe to ride before anything else. Yup, it costs money, but the alternative is even more expensive not just financially, but sometimes physically. Many of the XJ Wizards here we keep reiterate the same repetitive tone regarding the new ownership of one of these bikes. It is to help and warn...not steer you in the wrong direction. Enjoy your bike and welcome to the forum. Also post your bike in your signature, it will help others when you ask a question.

 

Keep it original......I wouldn't bob it...added expense you just don't need.....

Advice: wise men don't need it.....fools don't heed it....

Listen to Fitz & Bruce above......they are spot on with regards as to what is required regardless of how the bike is running now.......

Obviously, your friend is not familiar with these bikes.....

This forum will get you headed in the right direction....& safely down the road for miles of fun.....

 

Hotcakes, read the link in my signature on what needs to be done on a "proper" reconditioning.... NO SHORTCUTS

Also, bypassing the safety circuits is not a smart idea (IMO anyway).

PARK IT UNTIL YOU DO TIRES AND BRAKES. It's about your safety.

Don't listen to your buddy about them carbs either. read 'in the church of clean' and 'the whole nine yards' on here. then take a Saturday with a pot of coffee and get busy. (but do your valve shim clearances first)

Len (username Chacal) on here has all the parts you need on here.

now for the serious stuff. At least do a dry/wet compression test (DON'T FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE TCI BOX!!!) before starting your build/recomissioning. You don't want to get to the end of your build and find you have additional problems with the motor. Seen it enough on here....

 

Grats on the XJ!

Check out the New Bike Checklist link in JM's post above, that's what you'll need to do mechanically before you do anything cosmetic.

 

awesome advice
will start with the basics before moving on
it is parked in my basement at the moment with no plans on driving it till Spring
Brake rebuild, going to check the clutch for sure
new cables and master cylinder for sure
new fuse box
clean up the engine and get it looked at for sure
new filters etc
not gonna risk my life on it
still going to bob it eventually
the tires luckily are brand new, I know because the rubber bubs are still on it
it is going to be more work, for sure... but I feel if i am going to do this
I might as well do it right
I have a list of things to buy for this project
and it just got longer

Hotcakes

_____________________

1982 XJ650 30,000 Mi

Co-Host of Undercover Unitards www.undercoverunitards.com

 

Careful about the tires. They make look new, but check the date code on them. Some members here have purchased new "on sale" tires from a supply house only to receive 10 year old "new" tires. Since you might want to service the wheel bearings both front and rear, when you have the wheels off, deflate the tires and inspect them closely for sidewall dry rot cracks. An ounce of prevention goes a long way. Have fun with the restore!!

 

+1. My 650 Seca project is sitting out in the garage right now with a set of brand, spankin' new 18-year old tires on it.

They will be replaced before it gets ridden.

In regard to the engine "get it looked at" won't quite do.

You need to check the valve clearances, get them in spec and do a compression test. Then you'll know you have a viable mill to begin with.

That will also allow you to properly sync the carbs once you get to that stage.

 

ugh this is becoming more than I was expecting
tearing the engine apart I will.. LOL
but I will do the work to reap the rewards
tires I can guarantee are new still have the date sticker on them
will also inspect the wheel bearings when I have them off

dumb question but what is the best way to support the bike once I
pull the wheels off
I do not own a motorcycle work bench
was considering using my floor jack with a thick piece of wood
placed under the frame
opinions?

once again thanks for the help
and yeah.. I realize I have a lot of work to do this winter

Hotcakes

_____________________

1982 XJ650 30,000 Mi
2013 Kymco Super 8 150

Co-Host of Undercover Unitards www.undercoverunitards.com

 

Hotcakesman, yes do the work right and you will be rewarded in the end. As far as pulling the wheels and supporting the bike, I own a xj550, I pulled mine 1 at a time and the bike balanced itself on the center stand. Good luck to ya man

 

I used my center stand with two small jackstands under the crash bars. Kept the bike stable and allowed me to remove both wheels. Just lift the front enough for the tire to clear and set the jackstands accordingly.

 

-It always is. You said you knew what you were getting into.

-Checking valve clearances is a regular maintenance item that needs to be performed every 5000 miles. It's not really a case of "tearing the engine apart" more like "doing critical maintenance before the lack of it bites you." Since you gotta do it every 5K, might as well learn how. It doesn't require major disassembly.

-If you really plan to ride the bike; do it right. Shortcuts only extend the amount of time you "fight" with it rather than ride.

 

can anyone link me a walk thru on how to check my valve clearances
still waiting on my repair manual to come in the mail for the model
I am prepared to do the work
just not in the mood to replace the valve cover gasket if I don't need to
I am currently in the tear everything apart phase as well as the ordering
every tool I will need for the long winter
I spent the morning cleaning my basement and tool/work space
as well as throwing away a half garbage can of crap away

thanks
Hotcakes

_____________________

1982 XJ650 30,000 Mi
2013 Kymco Super 8 150

Co-Host of Undercover Unitards www.undercoverunitards.com

 

Until you get your manual this should help with the valve clearance.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

I have some family in Chadron, SD. Are you near there? Just curious.

 

Thank You
sorry other End of the State
I am closer to Minnesota than anything
thanks for the how too's
I do need to clean my engine a bit more before I get there
also I am lacking in tools at this point
all in time it would seem

Cheers all

Hotcakes
_____________________

1982 XJ650 30,000 Mi
2013 Kymco Super 8 150

Co-Host of Undercover Unitards www.undercoverunitards.com

 

An easy way to search this site is by using google site search. In the google search bar enter what your are looking for followed by "site:xjbikes.com" without the quotes. As an example..

valve clearance site:xjbikes.com

it works better than the forum search utility...

 

You can figure about throwing a grand or two into restoring this bike to proper running condition....

 

It can be done for around $600 ~ $800 if you do it carefully and don't count any of that budget toward cosmetic items.

In regard to the valve cover gasket: On a YICS motor, the valve cover is pressed against the head and gasket by the rubber/metal composite "donuts" on the cover hold-down bolts. The bolts themselves have 'stop' collars that prevent over-tightening. You probably will need to replace the valve cover gasket; be sure to replace the donuts on the bolts at the same time. Once you've done that, the new gasket can be successfully re-used for subsequent valve clearance service.

In regard to tools, a decent set of metric sockets and combination wrenches plus a few select hex-bits and decent proper screwdrivers is about all you'll need to get started. You WILL need a good torque wrench (actually a pair of them is best practice; one micro-range and one for bigger stuff.) Virtually all of the case screws, valve cover bolts, etc., are a 5mm hex, a T-handle comes in handy.

A clean, well-lit work area is an immense bonus.

Read this too: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=24010.html

And this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14581.html

 

I just spent a few hours tearing stuff off the bike
and I did notice that there is oil build up around the valve cover gasket
so for sure that will have to be replaced
will do that when I check the clearance
I have most of the tools needed
what will I be needing the Torque Wrench for?
just curious

Hotcakes
_____________________

1982 XJ650 30,000 Mi
2013 Kymco Super 8 150

Co-Host of Undercover Unitards www.undercoverunitards.com

 

Inch-pound wrench for case bolts, clutch pressure plate bolts, valve cover bolts, exhaust nuts, oil filter housing, etc.

Bigger capacity wrench for things like axle nuts, frame and suspension parts, oil drain plug, and I always use a torque wrench for my spark plugs.

Japanese aluminum is like butter. The factory books have an extensive chart of torque-specific items that should be followed; and I believe this is reproduced in the Haynes as well.

 

Hey welcome to the forum! Always nice to see another SoDak member on here.. whereabouts are you?

Checking valve clearances is really not as bad as it sounds. Once you've done it it's one of the easier maintenance procedures you'll get into.

Good luck with the project.. and let's see some pics! :lol:

 

Hey Ted, been digging on your bobber build
I am in Big Stone SD
about an hour from Watertown and 2 hours 20 from Sioux Falls
might have too check out your XJ in the spring
still a bit shaky on the valve clearance thing
I have the jist of it, just not sure I have the proper tools
also checked with my local Yamaha dealer today
they said that they do not carry shims
so I am gonna have to look on here for them when that time comes
right now I need to check the brakes and rebuild the clutch
I am also going to be working on repainting and doing minor cosmetic
work
mostly changing the seat and new bars
but right now it is a money issue.. as in I need to buy tools and
parts..
also not some weirdo or anything LOL

Hotcakes
_____________________

1982 XJ650 30,000 Mi
2013 Kymco Super 8 150

Co-Host of Undercover Unitards www.undercoverunitards.com

 

Here is some cheap advice...before spending money on the bike, do a compression test on the motor. If that passes in spec, then do your valve shim adjustment and the church of clean procedure on the carbs. Hogfiddles runs a shim exchange pool so that will be cheap. Rebuild kits for the carbs are relatively cheap also. You want to be sure that you have a good power plant before throwing a bunch of new parts on the bike.
Once you have the engine running and tuned, then go back to safety and maintenance items and then recommissioning the cosmetics and alterations. Hope this helps...