suzuki valve adjustment

doing intakes then exhaust to keep the timing lined up. so far their all 2 sizes
tight and the shims are all the same, so no swapping yet.
the book has 3 pages on how to get the cams aligned so i'am being careful not to move anything
pictures, we like pictures.
pictures

 

Is that front cylinder the easy one ?

 

Must be, we can't even SEE the rear one...

All 2 sizes tight after how many miles? Was the interval "stretched" or is this the initial check?

I'm always fascinated by the various adjustment intervals and valve train wear comparisons between engine designs.

 

communication error, should be, they need to go up 2 shim sizes.
one was tight at .003 all the others were at min spec (.004/.008 in) and
(.008/.012 ex) i do inches and convert at the end
first check called for at 15,000 it's at 13,000 now, no wear showing anywhere.
the back cylinder is easier to work on after the tank and a bunch of plugs are removed.
the hard part so far is finding the TDC mark through a 1/2 inch hole on the left side, then lay on your belly on the right side to see if it's a compression stroke.

 

What if you were to hook your compression gauge up the the cylinder that you're working on and let it hang down so you can see both it, and the timing window. If the needle moves, you're on the compression stroke.

 

i do inches and convert at the end {quote}
that seems unnecessarily complicated & would be easy to make a mistake.
IMHO

 

I make so many mistakes, one more or less won't matter

 

I dunno if they're all tight it seems like thinner shims are the answer... so going "down" a couple shim sizes would be correct after all.

 

progress is made, the shims are in and cams and caps back and it all lines up.
only had one hitch, had to sand a shim from 2.80 to 2.76, was going for 2.75 but i got tired. all i know is if someone tries to sand .05 off of a xj shim they better have 3 or 4 helpers and all day to do it.
i did find some metric feelers, the guy had them so long they were starting to rust through the oil. the important ones were ok, 2$, sold.
heres the original plugs

 

Are we still looking for the 'brown paper bag colour' with these new-fangled machines ?

 

i think that's what passes for a good plug nowadays

 

I agree. First off, forget looking at the insulators.

Gotta read the "flame ring" and the ground strap(s??) below the bend.

Umm... yeah.

The plugs that come out of my VW look just like that. Truth be told, the plugs that come out of my 550 pretty much look like that, with some BIZARRE red/yellow tinge on the insulators.

Plus, if the bike is fuel-injected and computer controlled (like my car) there ain't a damn thing you can do about it except spectate.

Honestly Wiz, I don't know if it's the "new fangeled-ness" of the machines or the new-f*ckled gasoline we all get to burn these days (it is a world market now.)

Once we moved to four or five valves per cylinder with precisely computer-controlled fuel injection based on emissions output, I don't think there's much left in there to stick to anything. The paper-bag brown days are gone; but like I said what does it matter when you can't "tune" anything anyway? (Unless you get a "chip" and hook up your laptop.)

 

The days of us fixeruppers are numbered.

 

i think so Wiz, i was on a sv site with eleven pages of discussion on doing a running sync on two throttle bodies. comments ran from...just as i got them equal, the adjustment screw fell out........to......my bike has 18,000 miles, do you think it needs it yet?.......to..... i won't even try something like that, how much does a dealer charge?.........we are loosing the formula for cement again
just to be clear, there's two vacuum ports and one adjustment screw and no mixture tweeking, their even in plain sight.
on a better note, i looked at my left over shims and the sizes i installed and had the left overs ground to the sizes i'll need next time, shim under bucket might not be so bad after all

 

Just curious what you use to grind the shims down Polock? How do you make sure they're completely flat and the same thickness across the whole shim? Thinking about doing that to my maxim x since they're shim under bucket...if I can.

 

Unfortunately true.

There aren't very many steam locomotive mechanics left anymore; and the number of people who can work on radial piston aircraft engines is rapidly dwindling...

 

I used 600 paper and kept turning the Shim while doing figure
8's with it, took at least 30 minutes to take off .003 in.
Kept checking with Mic's that read to tenths of thousanths. That was to get it back together
The spares were done by a machinist on a surface grinder who left .0005 for me to do by hand.
these are 9.48 mm shims that I found later for 2.50$ ( hotcamz ), would I do it again, no, only if I really needed to.
Remember you can't grind Shim over bucket shims.

 

valves went well so i moved to the back shock and linkages with those needle bearings. the book says check at 24,000 miles but now i know they have good grease in them. so far every bolt removed has either red or blue loc-tite.
added some pictures

 

No issues with being pro-active. But I wouldn't use RED Loctite.

 

side stand and mufflers were red, the side stand was 2 10mm bolts with allen heads at 86 ft/lbs and wires right above them. i had to get out my old trusty piece of asbestos cloth and the propane torch.
everything went back with the blue stuff

 

Well there's another thing we have in common Polock, excellent taste in grips

 

progrip #714, i just ordered a pair for the seca. i like the thicker grip and you can't beat the price