Kornbreads chop, cut, rebuild thread- Updated!

Hey guys! Want to take a minute here to introduce myself and my current project. I am a 25 year old machinist/small buisness owner from central ohio. I have been riding bikes since I got my first JR50 at 4 years old and have recently moved into street riding.
This is my latest project, 1982 maxim 650. Found it on CL and ended up bringing it home. The PO had done an ok job with the bike but it just wasn't up to my standards so here is the rebuild thread!
[/url][/img]
The very first thing I had to do was ditch the homemade seat that was on it. Even before I took the first picture it was gone. Second to go was the buggy headlights and cobbled up wiring. I sourced an original headlight to replace it. I also added drag bars and a solo seat from TCbroschoppers from right here in Ohio! While I had it apart the compression checked out good and the valves were all checked. Working on the brakes now. When I got it all the front brake parts were off and in a box. I refuse to ride a bike with no front brakes so I am in the process of sorting it all out and sourcing some parts from chacal to get it back together. I did get the original fuse box changed out. Pictures to follow!
As she sits now, waiting on some more parts in the mail!
[/url][/img]

 

Re: Kornbreads chop, cut, rebuild thread

Nice, lookin' pretty good so far. And it's good to see another Ohioan on here.

 

Re: Kornbreads chop, cut, rebuild thread

Welcome. It appears you've been lurking around this site and know how we stress valve clearances and brakes. I see your bike has pods. Watch the plugs. If you have trouble with jetting, just ask. Many folks have been quite successful with pods.
Are you any where near Erie,PA? I feel like such an orphan around here. No one to hang with.

 

Re: Kornbreads chop, cut, rebuild thread

Yep it has pods. I don't know what has been done(if anything) to the jetting but 3/4 plugs look good and it starts and runs great so I am going to leave it for now. The 4th plug looks blacker than the other 3 and is the cylinder with slightly higher compression than the others so I'm wondering if I'm not getting a little oil in from somewhere(valve maybe?). But like I said, it runs great so I will check them again after a couple of rides.
I'm right smack dab in the middle of Ohio. Its at least 2 hrs to any border.

 

Re: Kornbreads chop, cut, rebuild thread

Thanks to the cold weather we have had I have been getting some work done on the bike. To begin with I got the seat mounts fabbed up. I wanted the seat to sit as low as possible so I slotted out the frame tubes and welded in the rear mounts. The front mount was bent and welded to the frame.



I have a little more clean up to do on the welds but the seat sits in there nice and solid. Now what to do with the rear fender? My original plan was to run without one, but after seeing it with and without I decided to go with it. The po had bolted it on with bolts that went through both sides of the frame wall. While efective, it was IMO not very visually appealing so the question became how to clean it up. My original plan was to try to tack weld nuts onto the inside of the frame but the more I looked at it, the more I could tell it was going to be a pain in the butt. After a brief internet search I found my answer, and after a quick call to McMaster-Carr and a day later I had this!



Its a Riv-nut setter and it is sliiick! Everybody who builds bikes needs to own one of these. Pretty much like a rivet gun but you end up with a inset nut, like this!



So now I just need to weld up the outside holes and you'll never even know what was there. The backs are still open however. I was originally going to cap both of them until I ran across these little babies on Amazon.



If you remove the stainless steel bezel they are the prefect size to fit right inside the frame tube. So I am going to run these as my turn signals. Anybody have any ideas on how to wire these up? I played with them just real quick and I can get the blinker to come on and stay on but not blink. I believe it has to do with a grounding issue but I haven't come across the right combination yet.



I did get the wiring for my rear taillight sorted out and got it temporarily mounted. Just need to run the wires and paint the hardware so it doesn't stand out so much. But the rear end is starting to shape up how I wanted it!

 

Re: Kornbreads chop, cut, rebuild thread

I did get my front brakes sorted out with many thanks to chacal! He sent me a caliper rebuild kit, new pads and most of the hardware to mount up the caliper. My front master cylinder and the one piece ss brakeline came from Mikesxs. Combined with fresh Belray DOT 5 brake fluid and they are feeling pretty rock solid.

 

Your flashers won't flash because they're not drawing enough wattage to activate the flasher unit. The original bulbs were 1156's which are a 27W bulb. I know from experience that even 23W bulbs won't draw enough.

 

You will need an electronic (no-load) flasher, and a pair of diodes (to wire into the dash indicators so you don't get all four signals on at once). If you are keeping the stock front signals you should be able to skip the diodes.

 

Or - you hide enough lamp bulbs into the circuit, taped up into a little black box to load the correct 27W load (per bulb) that you need. Then the self-canceller will also work.

and COOL that you're doing in-the-frame lighting !!

And also cool that you know that working brakes are a good thing to have :arrow: 8)

 

So THATS the reason! I hadn't thought of that yet. Where would I find these electronic flashers? I do plan on keeping the stock front signals for now, even though they are kind large and ugly.
I have been on motocross bikes that suddenly blow front brake cylinders and it is NO FUN! Especially when your planning on braking hard into a corner! Thanks for your help guys!

 

What method did you use to get the cylinder out? I tried warming mine and using compressed air, but no luck so far. I'm scared to try the steam cannon method, and haven't bothered to get a grease gun yet.

RobbieRobot had found an electronic flasher relay on Amazon to replace the stock flasher relay. I bought it too, but haven't installed it yet. It prevents the stock auto-off from working, but I didn't know I had that feature to begin with, so I didn't mind losing it.

Of note, since you seemed to like that TC Bros are in Ohio (Toledo, actually): check out OldBikeBarn.com. They're based in Columbus.

 

there is a way to get the auto cancel to work with led turn signals...

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... gnals.html

the very last post has a schematic drawing I did to get a visual of how it all works.

CN

 

Large, iugly, and EASY TO SEE. Drivers really don't notice the small turn signals that are in vogue today.

 

I assume that you're talking about the brake caliper piston.
Is there room to press the piston in a little further? If not then use the banjo bolt hole to fill the bore with penetration oil and let it sit for a day or two. If compressed iar isn't popping the piston right ut then there is probably some corrosion keeping the piston in place. Once it's soaked go back with compressed air. If if still won't pop out then move to using the grease gun.

 

I used compressed air. I luckily found an air fitting in our parts bin that threaded into the bleeder screw hole. The compressor we have at work pumps out about 150 psi, and about three seconds of that and it popped right out. It was honestly harder to get back in than it was to get out.