Amazingly froze Oil filter bolt

Okay, I have a bit of a problem. I purchased my XJ 750 Seca a couple of years ago and maybe put 1000mi on it total. The PO claimed to have just changed the oil/filter. When I got it I could not get the oil filter bolt out, so I ordered another bolt (from emgo). I just have been changing the oil the last couple of years as I have hardly been running it.

This year I need to change the filter. So I hammered a socket on the bolt and turned. I was able to get a lot of torque on it before it spun. So I read up on here. It seems that there are three methods of getting these things off: heat, hammering, and bolt extractors. I had already hammered on it and I do not trust heat sources around the oil (see below). So I decided on a bolt extractor.

I drilled it out and hit oil (this rules out any torches near the area). And thread a bolt extractor in. Turn with all my might, not a budge. Put an 18mm box wrench on the T-wrench as a lever--nothing. Well I then put a 3/8 spark socket on about 18in of 1/2in socket extensions and used that that as a lever. Even though I nearly gave myself a hernia, nothing moved. Frustrated, I added a 24in breaker bar to the equation...I was going to get a bolt out or break a tool.

Again put all my manly strength in it to no avail. I spit on my hands and went at it again.

Tool broke.

T-wrench is no more. I can get another one.

After the story, now my question:

Oh damn, what do I do? I have a hole drilled all the way into the filter compartment and a bolt extractor sticking out of my bike. Help? Please?

Thanks,
Stephen

 

Grind the whole head of the oil filter bolt off flush with the filter housing?

After your description, that's about my best advice.

Oh - and unless there's gas in your oil, it shouldn't be too flamable. You should be able to use heat without causing much more than smoke.

 

I used a hacksaw to cut a slot in the stump of the bolt head and used an impact hammer to get it out. A Dremel tool will do. This oil filter bolt is a common problem. You would think we had come up with a solution for this issue.

 

There is!

Use a torque wrench when installing the bolt!

Do it up too tight and it don't want to come back out!

Cut the bolt head off. Take the filter cover off. Remove the bolt with vice grips. Hope the thread in the motor is OK. Replace bolt with new one. Install bolt with torque wrench.

 

There are some places where a little dab of NeverSeize will prevent you from having to take-out the Heavy Equipment.

Here's some numbers:

Oil Filter Pressure Relief "Bolt"

Bolt threads:
M20 X 1.5

Length of threaded area at end of bolt = 2.0 cm

Bolt depth into threaded area with Filter Housing flush to mount and bolt tightened finger tight: 15.5 mm of the 20 mm cut at end of bolt.

Insert is rated for above the 11 FtLbs of recommended torque.

You ought get organized with good light and a fire extinguisher.
Remove the Header Pipes.
Use a DREMEL Tool with CUT-OFF Wheels to cut-away the Top of the Oil Pressure Relief Bolt ... holding-on the Oil Filter Cover.

Remove the Cover
Allow the Oil to drain and stop.
Clean-off the bolt.

Use a Pipe Wrench with clean, sharp, Jaws ... on the Bolt to remove and discard it.

Loosen the Bolt by turning it COUNTER-Clockwise.
"Righty-tighty ... Lefty-Loosie"

Alternatively ... cut the end of the bolt nice and square and weld-on a Hex Nut.

Pull the Igniter and the Voltage Regulator off the bike if you elect to weld.

 

Thanks, I will try again tomorrow.

 

well I put a crescent wrench on the bolt extractor today and put enough torque on it to break the bolt extractor. This weekend I will be grinding off. Is a dremel adequate for the job or should I buy a grinder? Are the header pipes difficult to remove?

Thanks

 

If this is the first that the Header Pipes are to be removed since their installation at the Factory, a Quarter of a Century -- ago ... you need to Mentally prepare yourself for what you are about to do.

There are also some important safety measures and other considerations:

Alert everyone within a city block to ignore the uproar and tell them that it is:

"Harrinoble Japanese Custom tell neighbor - family - you mentally preparing self for WAR with evil spirit. Not worry hear you cursing screaming devil out mower-sigh-gull."

Dominus vobiscum.

 

put some PB Blaster or such on the header bolts the day before you try to take them off

 

And hourly re-applications during that time couldn't hurt either.

And have a torch handy to warm up the nuts.

Be prepared, some of the nuts are impossible to reach by anything except your basic wrench, and not a long one at that, and have to be turned roughly a quarter turn at a time.

 

Indeed, the studs have the same habbit of snapping as the intake boot bolts. Mine came off freely though.

Well it is winter here, warming the nuts help. (just be carefull not to burn 'em!). :lol: :lol: :lol:

1/4 inch drive, 6 inch long extension, 10 mm socket. Fits, just, on all of them.

Use new exaust gaskets when reinstalling. Do not overtighten.

 

My wife was in a car accident (by the way she is fine now) so it took awhile to get to this, but I just wanted to update in case someone has the same issue:

I removed the headers. The bolts to the engine block came out easily, getting the pipe out of the collector...not so. Just takes time.

I bought a cheap-o grinder from a discount store (only need it for this). grinded down the bolt head until I was close to the oil filter case. From here on I used my dremel to cause as little damage to the cover as possible.

I then got the cover off with a screwdriver.

Surprisingly, I was able to hand-turn the bolt out after the cover was off. It turned freely without it.

I put in the new filter bolt and filter and seals. TIGHTENED to 11 ft/lbs (86in/lbs)!!!!!!

Good to go.

I was changing the oil because I replaced the clutch plates. First time since I owned the bike and it looked like the first time ever. I got the bike on the road with the new oil and hit it. Wow! I had to pull over because I thought I had a flat. That's how much of a difference it makes. I was driving like I did pre-clutch renewal and how I drive my 350, and the back tire spun so much on take-off (that's what I will call it now) that it felt almost like a flat.

Anyone considering new clutch plates, do it. The best 80$ you can spend.

THANKS for all the help!
Stephen

 

Oh, and I did WD40 the header bolts 24hrs in advance. Avoid damage to engine block at alll costs! even if you have to wait a day...

 

Sounds like the grinder finally scared that bolt loose.

 

I'm happy another bike is fixed and a member will be hitting a Start Button and getting-out to ... "Go play in the traffic!!!"

 

I have that problem with the oil filter cover, seized bolt.
i am curious if cooling the cover enough would shrink the aluminum enough to take some stretch off the steel bolt, making it possible to remove and reuse the bolt.
Have any of you tried this? What whould be the best way of doing this?
Wrap it in ice packs, invert the whole motocycle and rest bags of ice on it,
Reroute the copper lines from freezer of a free refridgerator in a coil to really cool it?

my bike '82 xj750 j

 

First, welcome to you Tankslap, you've got a good question. I've not heard of this line of thought anywhere else. Are you comfortable messing with the cooling coils off of a refridgerator? Last time I saw some one mess with them, they broke the tube.

 

Remove the bolt in this fashion:

Use the CORRECT ~> 6-Point <~ Socket.

If you do not have a 6-Point Socket ... DO NOT try to loosen the bolt.***

6-Point Socket
Breaker Bar.
Ball Peen Hammer.

Attach the Socket to the Breaker Bar.
Attach the Socket and bar to the Bolt Hex Head.

Place VERY FIRM Turning Torque to the Bolt.
Grab the HEAD of the Hammer with the Handle sticking-out from your Index and Middle Finger.

Using the WOODEN Handle.
Strike the End of the Breaker Bar with a smart, swift, powerful blow.

Apply additional strikes to the Breaker Bar Handle ...
AFTER --
Re-seating the Socket; tightly.
Applying initial turning force to the Bar and Socket.

Clean everything when it comes out.
APPLY NeverSeize to the Bolt Threads so this process in unnecessary next time!

 

If your bolt head is messed up, and needs to be replaced, EMGO have a replacement with a 17mm head instead of the 12mm. My bolt on the XS was so round I had to dremel it off. That 17mm head should be a lot easier to get a good grip on.

 

i have a solution that will solve the bolt problem AFTER it is out.... After buying used and new oil filter bolts... it seemed every time i went to do a change.... the bolt would strip... causing me to use vice grips to reinstall and getting small leaks.... i then decided to hammer a 1 size smaller 1/2" socket onto the old bolt, bring it to my local garage, and had them weld it permanently!!!! now when servicing, i get my 1/2" drive and easy as pie.... and btw... i dont mess around... i used a craftsman socket bc my xj only deserves the BEST!!!! lol

 

Sounds to me like you've been WAY overtightening it; it's only supposed to go to like 11ft/lbs.

All that shouldn't be necessary.

 

Using the right Tool to remove the Bolt helps prevent damage and frustrations.

Use a 6-Point Socket and an Extension to keep the Tool firmly on the Flats.
A long-handled Pry Bar will apply ample Torque to remove the Bolt.

Treat the Bolt's Threads that extend into the Front of the Case with an AntiSeize Compound.

Replace the O-rings rather than need extra Torque to prevent leakage of a used one.

 

As an old biker I will say it again... every bike owner should have an impact driver. Not an impact gun like the tire guys but an impact driver. Have yet to find a bolt on my bikes that it won't loosen.
www.princessauto.com/view-all-products- ... act+driver

 

As an old biker I will say it again... every bike owner should have an impact driver. Not an impact gun like the tire guys but an impact driver. Have yet to find a bolt on my bikes that it won't loosen. A socket can replace the driver bits. Striking the tool while twisting it in the direction of rotation will loosen anything put on with hand tools.
www.princessauto.com/view-all-products- ... act+driver

 

You can say that again !! :lol:

 

Absolutely. +1. I've had my 'Vessels' Impact driver for seriously over 40 years; couldn't live without it.