valve adjustment

hi everyone how do you know if your valves are getting tight without taking the cover off and using a feeler gage ive never checked the valve clearance on any of the bikes i just know i got good compression on them 165-170s on the maxim x with unkown mileage people that we got the engine off said between 5-10k 150s o the 700n mileage is going on 18,500 they both run great

 

You don't. You'll have to get a set of metric feeler gauges, a service manual, a notebook (to record the current shim sizes), and take your time to get familliar with the process.

Fitz has your back.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

 

You can't. That's why the checks are specified by mileage.

And you can't just ignore them forever; yes, the bike will run great (or seemingly so) right up until the day it won't anymore. And then it will be too late.

The aircooled bikes were supposed to have their valve clearances checked initially at 3000 miles and then every 5000 thereafter. You know you need to check them if you've put more than 5000 miles on the bike; or if you have no direct knowledge of when they were last done (if ever.)

 

ok according to what u said in the other thread wouldnt there be a performance loss unless that only applies to the x "No contest, unless one of them isn't running right. (Probably the "X" because the valves are such a bitch to adjust.)"

 

Right.

But you still need to check the clearances especially on your aircooled bike. And what I'm trying to explain is that you might not see much of a noticeable performance loss right up until the day you burn a valve.

And then it will be too late.

Check your valves.

 

plus one on keeping up on the valve clearance. my recent acquisition had less than 0.04mm clearance on all valves (that's less than 0.002"). yes it ran, but not well, and I am not entirely sure there isn't some minor valve/seat damage already from being run too tight. adjusting these valves reminded me of the old water cooled Volkswagens I used to tune back in the day when I repaired cars for a living. unlike them, these xj's get tighter as the miles accumulate.

CN

 

Hmm, not bad, I had 3 inlet valves running with 0.00 clearance, the bike didn't run too bad like that either

It's such a simple job, I'll be checking at least once a year now I've got them all straightened out

 

You mean every 5000 miles...

 

Just as the person that posted this on the end of September I have never checked the clearance of the valves on any bike I have owned. EVER!! The other day I got my XJ 650 running but only for a minute or two. It just won't start even with starting fluid. If I remove the carbs once again can you see a burnt valve with a borescope? I have one you can't bend. How would one burnt valve cause a no start? Even with compression from left to right 150, 145,145,145 it's hard to start. I have had dozens of bikes and never done this to them. Some of them I never removed the valve cover. This is the first time I have seen this post. So if you write down all the numbers where do you get shims the right size for a bike that's 32 years old? Do they kit with all the shims need? This is the first time I have read about this tonight. Live and learn. That's what I have the other bike for. I had it running with starting fluid. That's with gummed up carbs.

 

You don't need a shim kit, that would be cost prohibitive.

You go in, check the clearances, "read" the shims, and then order what you need. Quite often you can use a shim that comes out to replace another; you won't know until you check them.

XJ4Ever has any part you will ever need; plus member HogFiddles runs a "shim pool" shim exchange program.

Tight valves don't have to be burnt/damaged for it to result in a no-start or hard to start situation.

The valve clearances in the XJ series tighten up with miles, not loosen. Once they become dead-tight or close to it, the bike will be very difficult to start despite decent compression readings.

Staying on top of things like valve clearances and carb maintenance is how you keep one of these bikes running well. Once you get everything caught up, it's not a lot of work at all; but if you simply neglect things you will get nowhere fast.

I wouldn't worry about trying to "see" a burnt valve; I'd start with the basics: get the valves in spec, and thoroughly and carefully clean the carbs and properly wet-set their float levels.

K-Moe posted the links to the valve adjustment how-to articles. Have at it.

 

Best thing about valve clearances is, like carbs, the first time is always the worst time. Most of the issues come from just getting in there. The actual checking is fast and easy. The challenge comes from having to replace a shim as it will undoubtably be banged in pretty tight. That's what winter if for, to loosen everything up (I pop all the valves, even ones that measure fine) and reset it so if you have switch something during the riding season it's much quicker!

 

hi is this the correct tool to remove the vavle shim and will it work on the xj700n?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-VALVE-SH ... e1&vxp=mtr

 

Yes; and you might want to actually read the two pieces linked to by k-moe. In them, you'll see that very tool "in action:"

 

yes i have looked at those many times and i see that pointy thing at the end of your tool that pushes the shim out.. but I cant see that pointy thing on the end of this tool I showed I want to make sure this is the right tool

 

oh nvm I see it now... anyway now the feeler gauge I bought only goes as low as .008 .203 and I need to adjust the virago to .004 intake-.006 exhaust.

 

The valve clearances for your XV1100 are:

Intake 0.07-0.12 mm

Exhaust: 0.12- 0.17 mm

You need to be using metric feeler gauges (it's so much easier that way)

KD Tools makes a set that is perfect for your needs, and is inexpensive. KD 2274

 

Hey Josh, I got my tool from amazon, and it has worked perfectly for shim changes since 2011. This is the one from my order history:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OO ... UTF8&psc=1

Same MP model, and a few bucks less than the ebay item.

FYI... valve clearance checks are the most cathartic AND meditative maintenance step for me. Very peaceful process, sitting next to a cold, quiet machine on a bucket and slowly and gently turning it over by hand. And once you have confirmed clearances, or changed out shims: release! For 5000 more miles.

Put a little R Carlos Nakai on the stereo and dig in

 

The "pointy part at the end" of the hold down tool does NOT push the shim out; that little tip is what holds down just the edge of the bucket without obstructing removal of the shim.

Go back and re-read through "Part Deux" even if you are planning to use the tool. http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html