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Valves worth doing ?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by a100man, Mar 24, 2014.

  1. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Hi All

    Measured the clearance last night and got these (in thou. Exh/Int)

    #1 7.5/6.5
    #2 8.0/4.0-4.5
    #3 6.5/4.0-4.5
    #4 7.0/4.5

    So a couple are a bit borderline I think (intakes 2 & 3) but since I understand they close rather than get wider I figured I could possibly leave te others I don't anticipate putting many miles on the bike < 1000 per year.

    Cheers

    J
     
  2. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Intakes two and three are likely tight; spec is .11mm ~.15mm; you're at .10 if they're .004" while .0045" is JUST barely in spec at .11mm.

    Exhaust #3 bears watching, and I'd keep an eye on intake #1, it's loose which generally indicates a developing issue.

    I'd re-measure using a true metric feeler set and go from there.
     
  3. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the reply

    EEK - now you've got me concerned ! What type of 'issue' can you imagine ?
    Will get a set of metric feelers too.
     
  4. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    As the valves recede Ito the head the clearances get tighter as the shim gets closer to the cam. If you have a clearance that is 'loose', you have something happening so that the valve is getting closer to the piston rather than closer to the cam.............could be as simple as a lot of carbon build up keeping the valve from closing, or it could be something much more serious.

    Dave
     
  5. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Aw guys, stop it - what's the 'much more serious' thing. I'm not sure I can bear it much longer :cry:

    Best

    JS
     
  6. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    A bent valve or a valve that is slightly distorted from overheating; both of these (besides carbon build up) can cause a valve to not close fully, as can a worn or split valve guide.

    There could also be excessive wear occurring, on the tip of the valve or the underside of the bucket; but that's a bit of a stretch possibility wise.
     
  7. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Thanks BF. A burnt intake less likely than exhaust though right ?
    The engine is on the bench right now with no carbs on so I can peek at a bit of the guide I think.

    Thanks again folks

    JS
     
  8. brtsvg

    brtsvg Member

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    agreed - start with the proper tools
     
  9. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    If you are "new" to the bike, the PO coulda adjusted that one valve wrong.

    Meaning - there might not be a problem.
    (A burnt or tulipped valve would run tighter)
     
  10. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    The engine is a 600 from a Radian that I got from ebay for 50 quid (it was sold as an XJ/FJ but hey ho..) the intention is to plant it to into an XJ550 (seca) that I bought in boxes last year. So far the only difference I noticed is the carb rubbers that are for the smaller Radian carbs - I (roughly with digital verniers) measured the intake lobes last night and they appear to be right of the FJ/XJ spec.

    Picking up another engine on Friday with hopefully the correct rubbers and a starter motor - has a 'sticky exhaust valve' apparently - princely sum of 26 quid.. So will end up with three engines 8O

    Incidentally - anyone know if the 550 YICS rocker cover fits the 600 ? Might add some fake authenticity (oxymoron ??)

    Cheers

    JS
     
  11. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    Put in a "wrong item" complaint on E-Bay - - you'll win.
     
  12. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    You're probably right but hopefully I can make it work. 160 mile round trip to return it would be more hassle and expense than it's worth...

    I'll keep you informed..

    Cheers

    Js
     

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