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Replacing Carb boots

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by steber, Mar 23, 2014.

  1. steber

    steber Active Member

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    I just ordered new boots for my bike. Should be in mid week. Before I start diving in I figured i'd ask here. Anything to be weary of? I've had the carbs off before so that part isn't my concern. My biggest concern is unbolting the old boots. I know the 550's aren't supposed to be as hard to get off as the bigger engines but i absorb any info I can. So, ny tips to get the old bolts out in one piece and not break them? Remove them with the engine hot or any trick like that? I'd rather not have to drill out anything. I searched for a how-to and wasn't able to find anything. I'm sure BigFitz has a tutorial or something buried deep within the forum that I couldn't get to. As always thanks in advance!
     
  2. Gunbunny

    Gunbunny Member

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    I wouldn't bother taking them off while the engine is hot.

    As with any bolt or screw, if it ends up being stuck, a little penetrating oil & heat goes a long way (when you'd want to warm the engine up).


    Of course, there are days I take a scrap screwdriver or hex key (depending on what screw I'm unsticking, plug the appropriate fixture (head of driver) into the screw head, and give it a couple quick, sharp raps with a small hammer. Works beautifully for me.

    Just my 2 cents worth of unsticking just about everything under the sun (I'm a notorious junk collector.)
     
  3. skippy344

    skippy344 Member

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    Typical stuff, get the bike warm, spray with WD-40, let sit for a bit, then, very gently, start unbolting.

    You don't want to "Snap" the bolts loose. If you use a "T-handle" that might happen, and that might break a flange.

    If you use a socket allen head, with a 3/8" driver, and just kind work it slowly, not full rotation torque, until it unsnaps.

    And I don't know about others, but I use spark plug "anti-seize" stuff when bolting back together.

    The two dissimilar metals, steel bolt and aluminum head, tend to fuse, if there is not a barrier.

    And for mechanic's sake, please use a torque wrench when tightening them back. I think the spec might be 7lbs. But look it up for sure!
     
  4. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    KROIL. Not WD40 or Liquid Wrench or anything; bring in the artillery.

    Soak for two days prior; and be careful.

    That being said, on the 550s none of the manifold bolts go all the way through. They all go into "blind" holes, so they can't corrode from behind like some of the bolts on the bigger bikes do. Which makes breaking a bolt off in the head less likely.

    REPLACE THE BOLTS. Smear with anti-sieze compound. And the torque spec is indeed 7.2 ft/lbs; if you don't have an inch-pound, micrometer type torque wrench now is the time to invest in one.

    Oh and get new gaskets too, of course.
     
  5. Xjrider92117

    Xjrider92117 Active Member

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    Vacuum port caps too while your at it...
    If needed.
     
  6. skippy344

    skippy344 Member

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    Thanks, for the product reference, Fitz! Never heard of it.

    Now I gotta go find some! KROIL!!

    7.2 ft-lbs=86.4 inch-pounds, FYI, Gun!
     
  7. steber

    steber Active Member

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    Done and Done! The bolts came out like butter. Finally got around to getting an inch/lb torque wrench to get the bolts on. Upon inspection my boots didn't seem to have any cracks all the way through, but who knows how long that would have lasted. Peace of mind is always better than wondering, so investment worth it. Attention is in the details and now the boots dont look like they're 100 years old so I'll take that as well! Started the bike up and it purred like usual, although I must say the engine sounded much more stable and pure. Don't know if it was in my head or if the rubbers help stabilize everything. All in all a 2 hour investment of time and a good wrestle match putting the carbs back on was well worth it. Now that compression, valves, boots, brakes, and sync (will resync with no boots) are done its time to invest in the clutch to really put that torque in the wheels!
     
  8. skippy344

    skippy344 Member

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    Good job, Steber!
     
  9. wazimoto

    wazimoto Member

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    I have heard that a set of new Barnett clutch springs are a good place to start. Often times the plates are fine with just a bit of "re-dressing"

    That's my plan at least, and the springs are only about 20 bucks!
     
  10. steber

    steber Active Member

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    Not sure if I'll rip into the clutch this year or next, as it's holding its own as of now. Would like a slightly better launch though. I'll probably pick up new springs, and go with new friction plates and dress the primaries.
     
  11. Orange-n-Black

    Orange-n-Black Well-Known Member

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    Kroil is great stuff, but not always available locally. If you can't find it, use a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic tranny fluid. Lot of machine shops use that.
     
  12. adrian1

    adrian1 Active Member

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    Love the "Fro" Wazimoto - suits the XJ era :p :lol:
     
  13. ElkHavenSeca

    ElkHavenSeca Active Member

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    I replaced my boots on my xj750 r and as per the suggestions here ordered some kroil oil from harbor freight .The sale price included free shipping and it is worth the wait . I now use it on every bolt before working on anything . I soaked my bolts a couple days before i removed them and they came out as if they were hand tight .


    Definatly do not want to skip the penetrating oil step .
     
  14. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Not 30-year old friction plates, ever. They dry out; the ones on the side of the clutch submerged in oil turn into little squares of linoleum; the ones that weren't submerged just dry out and crumble.

    Plain plates, yes, by all means. Clean them up with Scotchbrite and as long as they aren't warped or burnt blue, they should be fine. But friction plates gotta be replaced. All fitting stiffer springs will do is ensure that you'll need plain plates too once the clutch starts slipping.
     

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