my XJ650 won't start again

Hi there everyone I'm new here so please bare with my ignorance on these bikes
I picked up a 1982 Maxim 650 for $400 The bike was pretty ruff to say the least had been sitting out side a long time. I have sense pulled and cleaned the carbs thurally! replaced fuel line added in line filter replaced throttle cable & clutch cable changed the oil and filter cleaned out tank and replaced the fork seals.
I had it running and it sounded awesome! but the next day when I started it It started to pop a little bit then acted like a plug or 2 was fouling out then it wouldn't start at all. It would turn over but no spark.
I tested the coils with an ome meter and got a reading of 3.0 to the power in conectors on both coils witch is right ware it should be for these bikes if I'm right? but on the other end (power coming out of the coils to the pugs on the 2/3 coil I got a big fat nothing and found a big crack all the way across the bottom from one end to the other. On the coil for 1/4 without the resister caps on and probes in the wires I got a reading of 17000/ 17,800 and with the caps on nothing and found a 2" crack on the bottom of that coil pack as well I put that coil back on and turn her over and it was only firing on #1
I'm sure I remember some one who had one of these bikes years ago telling me the coils should read 2 to 3 omes going in and 12000 to 15000 going out so that along with the massive cracks in them I'm sure there junk but I'm dumbfounded as to how they could both go out at the same time?
Any info y'all would care to share with me about these bikes would be greatly appreciated!!! I'm pretty well mechanically inclined and have worked on all my own motorcycles sense I started riding them on the street but I've never owned a maxim/Seca I did have a Yamaha xs 400 YICS LOL

 

-Be sure you use motorcycle oil; car oil all contains friction modifiers now. Castrol 4T is widely available, 20W50 is fine.

-Check your valve clearances right away; they've probably been ignored.

-WET-SET your float levels.

-Sync the carbs-- running vacuum sync with the YICS blocked.

-Rebuild the brakes, front and rear. Completely.

-Check the date codes on the tubeless tires; if they're over 6 years old they're not safe at road speed.

 

I had a pair of cracked coils and fixed them by cleaning them, then pouring ABS pipe glue into the cracks. They worked fine.
But since I have better coils, I don't use them.

The spark is running thru the crack and going to the frame-mount and metal body of the coil.

Make your plugs easier to fire for now, gap to 0.025, file the center electrode "square"

Check E-Bay for another set of coils. XJ ignitions are weak enough as-is.

 

Not to pick nits, but weak is the wrong word. The XJ ignition is what it is for a very good reason: it matches the spark requirements of the engine design. Kevin Cameron wrote a lengthy explanation about the relationship between ignition systems and engine design. You can find it in "Top Dead Center 2." Before reading that article I had no idea that the type of ignition system on an engine had such a strong effect on overall engine performance. I had assumed that so long as the spark came at the right time, the engine would run correctly.

 

I purchased a set of coils from a running 1982 Seca 750 from flea bay for $24.97 shipped and with a 30 day warranty the guy had a vid of the bike running before parting it out for salvage
K-Moe I haven't had a chance yet today to get to the front end Mom needed a lil help this morning and she lets me have the garage for my toys tools and tinkering so it's been my way of paying her for the rental space so to speak for years. but I would do anything Mom ever asked!!!
OH by the way when I had the bike running before and once the PB Blaster got burned out of the cylinders it was Idling wonderfully ,just a smidgit high but I OPENED THE BUTTERFLY'S A LIL BECAUSE IT WOULDNT UNTIL I DID. But then when it wouldn't start again the next day and I tested battery at 12.1 volts and the coils THE COILS READINGS WERE 3.0 & 3.1 AT THE HARNESS BUT THE 2/3 COIL HAD 0 AND SOMETIMES 1 SO THAT ONE WE KNOW IS TRASH THE COIL 1/4 WOULD ONLY READY 12,000 OR SO WITH THE CAPS OFF BUT EVEN AFTER CLIPPING A 1/4" OFF THE WIRE AND NEW CAPS NOTHING AND THEN 17,000 18,600 AND JUMPING UP AND DOWN So I'm sure there both cuput
Any 4 hoot just wanted to be clear with as much as I can. Sorry if I have repeated anything from earlier post
Thanks again everyone
Robert
P.S I KEEP TRYING TO POST PIX WITH MY COMMENTS/POST BUT THEY DONT COME UP WHY?

 

Throw the picture in "PAINT" on your PC,
re-size to less than 500 X 350 or so, "save as" a special re-sized name.
upload the new pic.