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Seca900 fork seals

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by quebecois59, Mar 14, 2014.

  1. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    EXCEPT:

    The "step" on the bottom of the fork tube doesn't appear to provide a wide enough "flange" to properly press on/work against a wave washer.

    Doing it the first way, with the plain washer, then the two wave washers, will simply double the springiness of the wave washer as opposed to having a single one there. But fitting a wave washer, then a plain washer, then the other wave washer will still only "double the springiness" but it also makes the stack taller.

    I'm betting Haynes went by the fiche, which isn't the most accurate document in the world.

    If it were me, and the fork came apart with the two wave washers together, trapped between the plain washer and the damper rod seat, then I'd follow what the service manual says and do it that way. You're probably the first person to have the forks apart.
     
  2. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    The reason I think I'm not the first one to dig in there is because one of the fork is missing its damper rod bolt crush washer.

    Also, if I remember correctly, the flat washer wasn't on the right side of the spring washers, according to what the service manual says.

    Anyhow, I have what looks like a service manual, (I doN't have the cover), so I'l go with that. I felt better asking, because the manual osn't super clear about the righ tlocation of the taper spindle:

    [​IMG]

    The manual drawings and pictures suggest that it should be installed INSIDE the upper leg, in fact IM pretty sure it was OUTSIDE (when I pulled it apart), at the bottom of the upper leg, like in my picture. Please tell me if I'm wrong...
     
  3. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    I'd go by the factory service manual. On my 750 the order of the washers (from the top of the rod) was: flat washer, wave washer (just one), oil lock.
     
  4. adrian1

    adrian1 Active Member

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  5. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    Two questions before I go any further:

    1-I will keep the regular fork springs so do I simply put in 286 ml per fork or do I have to measure an accurate distance from the top of the fork to make sure I put the right amount?

    2-what do you guys use to drive the new oil seals in place?

    Thanks in advance
     
  6. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Replace the Springs with New Progressive brand.

    Measure the Oil.

    Cut a slot in a 3-Inch length of PCV Pipe.
    Use a Hose Clamp to close the PVC Pipe to fit over the seal.
     
  7. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    Rick

    Why cutting a slot and putting a hose clamp? The pipe is a just bit too big?

    I decided not to change the springs this time so this is why I started my first question saying it!
     
  8. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    You adjust the Outside Diameter of the PVC Pipe, ... to fit the Inside Diameter of the Lower Fork where the Seal gets placed.
     
  9. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    Makes sense, thanks.
     
  10. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    if you leave the pvc pipe longer than the inner fork you can tap the top of the pvc and not take a chance of hitting the forks you just worked on
     
  11. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    Good tip, thanks Polock!
     
  12. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    Put some cold weld on the forks yesterday evening, after using a propane torch to burn oil residues.

    It seems to hold well. NOw I'd like to know if I can sand it the same way as the fork itself: 400 grit, then 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 is appropriate.
     
  13. Special_edy

    Special_edy Member

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    Here is a thread with pictures of every piece of my XJ750-RJ anti-dive forks laid out.
    http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=41895.html

    The majority of the wear wont be where the dust seals are, the wear occurs at the bushings. I bought a shotgun bore cleaning kit and used the cloth pad to polish the inside of the lower fork tubes. Rubbing compund first then polishing compound. I would suggest buffing and polishing the outside of the upper fork tubes if you sand them, and make sure you crosshatch your sanding pattern, going up/down or sideways will be more likely to create ridges.


    To insert your new fork seals, place the old fork seals upside down on top of the new ones and then use pvc to hammer it down. The old seals make an excellent washer.
     
  14. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    Your forks and mine are a little bit different, but that gives a good idea, thanks for the link.

    As for the sanding, I did it with my palm and fingers wrapped around the tube, to avoid making flat spot.

    Sanding with 2000 grit wet is pretty close to polishing, I guessm but I may finish with AUtosol on a clean rag.
     
  15. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    I'm a bit puzzled now.

    I'm trying to reassembly my forks and I'm not able to align the hole at the bottom of the damper rod and the hole at the bottom of the anti-dive device. I can barely see a very small part of the bottom hole of the damper rod. I

    it seems like the damper rod isn't sitting low enough in the lower leg, but I can't move it any further anyhow.

    I didn't notice if it was that way when I disassemblied, it was hard to see with all the dirty oil in there.

    Am I missing something?
     
  16. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    I won't have access to my computer until Monday so I can't post any picture...
     
  17. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    So I got my computer bac today, here is a link that will help (I hope so) telling me what I'm doing wrong:

    tinyurl.com/kgfs2oj

    The way I tried to reassembly the forks I can't align the lower hole of the damper rod and the lower hole of the anti-dive...
     
  18. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    Your link didn't work.

    Gary

    Edit: Ok, thanks.
     
  19. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    It will work if you open another web page and if you copy and paste it at the place you'd put the site address normally
     
  20. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    I'm back with Google Chrome, it works better to load pictures from photobucket:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Now if someone would point at what I'm doing wrong with fork reassembly, I'd appreciate a lot.
     

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