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82 xj650 maxim trying to get her tuned

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by drifter, Apr 30, 2014.

  1. drifter

    drifter Member

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    greetings folks,
    been a lurker for some time

    I have a 82 xj650 maxim that after pulling out of winter storage

    it started to develop stutering/stalling issues then would be hard to restart and if it would start wouldnt stay running for very long...
    I had emptied the carbs and tank before I put her away

    so this is with fresh fuel

    first thoughts is time to get to cleaning out the carbs

    after wrestling them out and disasembling i managed to have a sparkly clean set .. i didnt break the bank down .. just took the bowls hats, jets, enrichment circuit and well

    following the guide on this site made sure it was spotless when i was done ...used a guitar string to clean the well

    after i struggled to get them back on

    decide i should check the valves .. this is were the real fun started
    again the guides on this site are very thorough

    i dont have the valve tool so I wanted to just see where i am at
    as far as what size shims are there,,, atm unknown

    this is what my measurements look like
    overall i think or hope i might beable to move shims around and get em into spec

    cyl # 1

    exhaust .006inch/ .152mm
    intake .010inch / .254mm

    cyl # 2

    exhaust .007inch/ .178mm
    intake .007inch / .178mm

    cyl #3

    exhaust .006inch/ .152mm
    intake .006inch/ .152mm

    cyl #4

    exhaust .008inch/ .203mm
    intake .005inch / .127mm


    for now based on what i understand is .exhaust 006in / .152 mm for cyl 1 and 3 is tight but ok for now
    and only cyl 4 intake definitely needs to be replaced

    so as i dont have the valve tool .. o decided to close her up
    but manage to strip one of the valve cover bolt holes

    dont have tap die, or thread chaser to fix it i am trying the permatex thread repair kit
    basically a epoxy
     
  2. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    Did you strip the thread that's in a "saddle" that is NOT a cam bearing??
    Because you can just get another one - very important to have the cover clamped on correctly.

    Valve tool = short length of 12/2 household wire, with an 80* bend.
    Slip it thru the plug hole, you'll see the valve opened, and the wire keeps it open.

    CYL #1 intake at 010 " shows you that some PO did things wrong.
    CYL #2 is "just out" and you could simply let it wear into spec, or fix it right.

    Then, post-up your compression ##'s
    You should plan on going over your ENTIRE bike, on the thought that your PO screwed-up doing other service,
    see my links \/ - - - Welcome to the Site !!
     
  3. drifter

    drifter Member

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    Stripped the one on the outer not the ones on the bearing
    So hopefully the thread repair epoxy will work... Would rather a heli or
    time cert sp ?

    Yes that one seems way too loose
    Will try the wire trick
     
  4. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    I use a ziptie myself .......
    Dave
     
  5. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    go somewhere like Napa (per BF) and get a inexpensive metric feeler. I need to get one too. imo helicoil the stripped head hole. like ride said it's essential the valve cover snugs and stays tight. hope this helps.
     
  6. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Most auto parts stores have a K-D Tools display; they often stock the pn 2274 metric feeler gauge. I've gotten them at NAPA and off Amazon previously.
     
  7. drifter

    drifter Member

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    Well bad news for me .... The bolt I permatexed snapped when I tried to get it out... Guess the release agent didn't release :( called my mechanic he is gonna get it out and help coil it.. Having him do the valves while he is there... Note to self that thread repair stuff is junk
    I actually am waiting for the bus as we I type this

    Good news is it stays running and was able to get me to my mechanic
    Still rough running but at least running
     
  8. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    Did you -

    set your floats
    running sync
    replace throttle shaft seals
    polish the "piston sliders" to perfection
    flush out the Pilot jets and replace the little "O" rings

    Sometimes steps are missed.

    Oh yeah - - plug chops for your final tune-up.
     
  9. drifter

    drifter Member

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  10. drifter

    drifter Member

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    my feelers are both metric and standard ... is why i posted both numbers
     
  11. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    both sets of mine do too. I believe the set bf is talking about is a straight metric set...you know 10mm, 11mm etc.
     
  12. drifter

    drifter Member

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    What would be the benifet of that set vs the set I already have... Finer increments? Between feeler size?
     
  13. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Your feelers are standard that are engraved with the metric equivalent. Using a metric feeler gauge eliminates the headache that comes from trying to subititute the converted SAE measurement when selecting shims. SAE gauges can show a valve being in spec, even though it is actually just out of spec (and in need of being re-shimmed). If you're comfortable remembering which way you need to round the measurement, then using SAE gauges is fine, but you have to always remember.

    My phlosophy about tools comes down to this question: Would you use an SAE wrench on a metric head bolt?
     
  14. drifter

    drifter Member

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    Fair enough :) thank you for the clear answer
     
  15. drifter

    drifter Member

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    bike is back from the shop


    turns out she also had the wrong plugs in her the whole time .. well at least 3 were wrong

    NGK BP7HS and not NGK BP7ES

    NGK BP7HS the thread area is about a half inch shorter the the BP7ES

    so she runs like a diffrent bike
    :))
     

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