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Rebuilt carbs but Fuel Rail bar leaking by #3 carb

Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by thejewishguy, Jul 6, 2014.

  1. thejewishguy

    thejewishguy Member

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    I had the carbs rebuilt with a new kit...
    I put gas in the tank and its leaking at the fuel rail by the #3 carb
    Mechanic said that he installed new O rings and that it sometimes happens.. Gas will expand O ring and retry to open petcock for gas to flow and it should be fine.

    I dunno but i hate the thought of having to remove carbs because they were a bitch to put back on the intake boots !

    Any suggestions ?

    http://youtu.be/VitN-cJvXvQ
     
  2. Stumplifter

    Stumplifter Well-Known Member

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    First, put out your cigarette. :wink:

    That video looks like the leak is between #1 and 2.
    The amount of gas dripping almost indicates that there is a missing o-ring on the connector.
    Make sure your drain screws are torqued properly. My #2 was a little loose and leaked - not flowed like yours.

    Remember, no one will clean your carbs (and rebuild them) as meticulously as yourself.
     
  3. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    you sure that's where it's comming from, i would have thought a leak there would drip off of the float bowl.
    either way, that's a gusher, i doubt the o-ring is going to swell enough to stop it.
    thinking he tore the o-ring putting it in
     
  4. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Or forgot one...

    Either way, a new o-ring is needed. Here's a trick to installing them... After you roll them into the groove, dip your fingertip into some engine oil and lube the ring before pushing the tube back into the carb body.

    Dave
     
  5. thejewishguy

    thejewishguy Member

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    It's coming from #3 carb where the fuel rail goes into #3 carb
     
  6. thejewishguy

    thejewishguy Member

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    I don't smoke but I don't know which ones are the drain screws
     
  7. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    So you have to remove both top and bottom bars, split the rack between carb 2 and 3 to replace that o- ring. If you're careful, you can unbolt just two of the carbs ( either 1&2, or3&4) and separate the rack that way...... That way two carbs stay lined up .....
     
  8. thejewishguy

    thejewishguy Member

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    $40.00 labor with parts and includes bench pressure check test.. All is well now
     
  9. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    OK, so $40 plus whatever you paid him the first time to not do it right...

    Learn to fix it yourself, at the rate you're going you'll be buying the guy a new boat before you know it. Or maybe he has kids in college.

    Have you or the shop checked the valve clearances yet?
     
  10. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    If someone told me that they needed to do a 'bench pressure test' on a set of my carbs, I'd ask if they could check the franistan-rebobulator linkage for excess play, too, while they're at it.

    Why would someone do a "bench pressure test"on these carb? That would totally negate any need for the floats! The fuel is a gravity feed system. There is no fuel pump. If you pressurize the fuel line it will overpower the 'lift' of the floats that close the fuel valve is the only pressure. As soon as that is overcome, fuel will push into the fuel bowls and flood everything.

    If your needles and floats are good, and the floats are set to the right height.....they'll close right. Wet setting pinpoints the right fuel level for best running without starving or flooding.


    Dave F
     
  11. thejewishguy

    thejewishguy Member

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    It was done to see if it was still going to leak fuel.. since it passed with no leaking then it was good to go
     
  12. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    uh......yeah, ok, if that made you feel better.
     

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