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Front wheel bearings and alignment

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by a100man, Aug 7, 2014.

  1. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    On reassembling the front spindle etc.. after 15 years in a shed I noticed that the spindle pokes out too far and actually appears to be pinching the forks together Saying that the catle nut is quite narrow and might not be original ?. Fork leg to disc
    clearance is also not matcched on each side (dual discs in europe)..

    So anyway the wheel needed some new bearings so I figured the replacement exercise might also reveal a missng part. Got the right hand side out easy enough using a long steel rod as a drift and displacing the spacer slightly to get access to the inner race. The speedo drive side however is more troublesome though. The seal, the drive retainer and dog gear came out fine, leaving the bearing. IThe internal spacer dropped out with a flange on it whcih I'm guessing is item 3 on here
    If so and there's nothing else missing between the bearing and the hub I will just give another (hard)knock wit the hammer/drift. ..

    .. unless i hear otherwise :D
     
  2. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Having the wrong nut won't cause the forks to pinch, but the axle not being fully seated on the right side will. So will tightening the axle pinch bolt before tightening the axle nut (full torque is applied to the axle nut after the axle is seated and the pinch bolt tightened).
    Take an old screwdriver, or a thin cold chisel, and widen the gap on the right fork (the one with the pinch bolt) so that you are sure the axle will be free to move during the "snugging up" portion of reassembly.
    There is a hole machined through the pinch bolt side of the axle. Run a punch (or an old screwdriver) through that hole so the axle dosen't spin while you snug the axle up (again, you won't be tightening the axle nut to it's full torque value yet. you're just getting everything set into place so there are no gaps).
     
  3. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Indeed I think you've got it. I will reassemble more carefully once I have the new bearings and seal in place and let you know.

    Thanks J
     
  4. fatnfast

    fatnfast Member

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    You have removed the LH speedo parts from what you say. Heating the area around the bearing with a hot air gun will make to job a lot easier. 2-3 mins and a gentle tap will have the bearing out. The same goes when replacing them. I know people recommend sticking the bearings in a freezer overnight to 'shrink it', but as it cools you get a fair amount of condensation form on the bearing which is not ideal.
    With regards to the disc clearance, in the UK handbook it states that after tightening the axle (and before the pinch bolts) you 'adjust' the left fork leg to get the correct caliper/disc clearance for the LH caliper. This is done by physical movement of the fork leg itself. Seems like a bit of a bodge, but that's what it says!
     
  5. fatnfast

    fatnfast Member

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    Heres the info from the handbook

    [​IMG]

    And a pic of the front axle

    [​IMG]

    Axle length - 257mm, Spacer 20mm, Nut 15mm.

    Hope that helps.
     
  6. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Thanks that makes sense, just got the bearings in. The non-speedo side dropped in the first 5mm which was a bit worry but that''s where the seal fits so maybe not a big concern - in fact I clean up a burr with some 320 grade so i'm not that surpised.Tapped it in the rest of the way using the old bearing - seals should come nextweek then it goes back together..

    It's all baby steps on this project..

    Cheers

    JS
     
  7. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Bend those locking tabs over before you lose a rotor bolt!
     
  8. fatnfast

    fatnfast Member

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    Ha Ha, yes good spot Kmoe. I had just fitted them when the pic was taken. Nice shiny stainless steel ones as well ;-)
     

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