Clutch issue

Still tuning the bike but something else came up this week. I started the bike up in neutral, let it warm up, and took it for a spin around the yard. Pulled the clutch lever in to stop and the clutch was partially engaged and stalled the bike. Put the bike in neutral again, started up, put in gear, drive around house, and the same thing happened. Tried again but pulled clutch lever in blipped the throttle and no engaged clutch. Stopped normaly. Clutch cable was set correctly. Took it out on the road. No issues. I rebuilt the clutch about 900 miles ago. Yamaha parts. Friction plates, metal plates, springs, and bolts were changed out. Gears are smooth. Only other thing is I have been hitting neutral from 1st to 2nd gear a little more often lately. Any suggestions on what might be going on?

 

Clutch cable may have stretched out a bit....adjust it at the perch.
Possibly faulty neutral safety switch....

 

OK. I will check the cable. I did relube the cable as part of the clutch rebuild. If the neutral switch is not working correctly would I still get the green light on the dash when selecting neutral? Can't remember, don't you have to be in neutral to start the bike?

 

Some bikes you have to be in neutral to start, other bikes you can start as long as the clutch lever is pulled.

Still sounds to me like the clutch cable is just stretched out enough so that the clutch isn't fully engaged.

Example:

I had a 650 maxim that I had bought because the PO decided that the clutch was shot. REASON: when he would pull the clutch lever, the bike would continue to slowly creep forward anyway. SOLUTION: he pulled the clutch cover off, pulled out the clutch pack, found that there are many plates and discs in there, decided he was in too deep, and so sold me the bike.

What did I do? Cleaned the plates and discs, reassembled and re-installed the pack, new cover gasket, oil, filter, (thorough carb clean, valve shims check, etc....), ADJUSTED THE CLUTCH CABLE, started the bike up and rode it with NO issues.

End of story---all that was needed was to adjust the clutch cable.........

all the rest was needed, but not the cause of the problem. Check the cable first, start simple and work your way in.

Even if the cable adjustment is almost all the way out, you can still adjust without having to open the clutch. Disconnect the cable, back the adjuster way in, reset the small arm on the clutch pivot back on tooth, re-connect the cable and adjust the tensioner again.

You'll be ok.
dave

 

Thanks Dave. I will readjust the clutch cable this weekend and give it a try.

 

Quick question, if you install a new factory clutch cable, throttle cable, etc. does it need to be lubricated before you install it?

 

Quick question, if you install a new factory clutch cable, throttle cable, etc. does it need to be lubricated before you install it?

 

Yes, though some suppliers will ship a pre-lubed cable. Teflon lined cables don't need to be lubed, but it doesn't hurt. You can lube the cable after instillation if you prefer. Motion Pro makes a handy little doo-dad for that.

 

I went back and readjusted the clutch cable. I am still stalling out the bike when it has not warmed up and I pull the clutch in and try to stop. It would not happen if I blipped the throttle a little before applying the brake. It is getting worse where it is happening when the bike is warmed up. Do I need to crack the side case and look at the bolts, springs, and clutch plates? Could something be going on with the clutch basket? It looked OK when I did the rebuild. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Try backing the little throwout lever up by one spline on its shaft and readjusting the cable.

If that doesn't work, pop it apart and take a close look at the ears on the basket and the ribs in the hub. They will have had some wear from the previous parts; be sure there aren't any divots deep enough to be hanging the plates up. Some "polishing" is OK, but actual dips worn into the parts isn't good. Minor ones can be cleaned up with a fine, sharp file; otherwise the part would need to be replaced.

You might also want to double check the nut holding the hub for tightness; even though there is a tab washer it can still come loose.

All the new clutch parts were soaked in oil before assembly?

You made sure the dots on the hub and pressure plate were aligned?

What oil are you running?

 

I tried the readjustment of the cable earlier. It did not have any affect on the problem. I did soak fiber and metal plates overnight in oil before assembly. Using Yamaha parts. I am using the YamaLube. I think 20-50 weight. Looks like I may be taking the side off to see what's going on. I have about 1500 miles on this oil. Could that affect the clutch operation? I thought it was every 2500 miles before replacing oil and filter.

 

It's not related to your oil change intervals; just wanted to be sure you're running motorcycle oil.

Given the info you just provided, I would definitely advise having a look.

 

Both I and Fitz suggested turning the lever back a tooth.... Have you done that yet?

 

Sorry guys I forgot that information. I tried going back one tooth on the throw out lever but when I tried to connect the cable at the Handle it would not reach. I had the adjustment knob at the handle all the way in and the adjustment nuts all the way in the top position. So I put the lever back to its correct position and went through the adjustment procedure listed in the forum.

 

yup