New XJ650RJ Owner

Hi everyone! My name is Jon and I'm located in Texas. I'm the proud new owner of a 1982 XJ650RJ! It had a pretty good history (guy I bought it from bought it from his friends son, who bought it from his dad). The bike is all original except for the 4 into 1 exhaust and came with the original Yamaha Warranty papers! It has 16,000 miles on it. It hadn't run for about two years but I've been working with the man I bought it from and we've gotten it running pretty well and I just synced the carbs a few days ago.



I've been poking around the forum here and it seems to be a great resource with knowledgeable and friendly people! My plan is to work on the bikes essential safety/maintenance features first (brakes) and then really start riding. Maybe do some performance mods (progressive springs) and then as time goes on maybe get around to restoring it!

I've taken a little look at the "Information Overload Hour" but will definitely need to sit down and read through it more thoroughly. In the mean time, I'd appreciate any high priority items I really should take care of before riding it too much more. All systems feel/sound good and it rides well. So far my to do list is:

- SS Front brake lines
- New front brake pads
- New rears brake shoes
- Engine/Filter/Rear Drive Oil Change
- Valve Adjustment

I know there are a ton of other items that should be tended to and I plan to get to in time, but please let me know if you can think of a few other clear essentials before getting into too much riding this season!

Thanks!

 

Oops pictures didn't link:

 

Nice clean xj650rj

 

Welcome! You're going to love it. I'll say this gently before the others lay into you; put your valve clearances at the top of your list, followed by re-syncing the carbs. Search around on the site here and you'll see many examples of why. The rest of your list looks about as good as the bike does. Definitely jealous. I've been wanting to get my hands on a Seca to go with my Maxim.

 

Thank you for the compliments and the advice! Do you recommend ordering a shim kit (if available) ahead of time to minimize bike downtime or is it best to go through with your feeler gauge first and then only order the specific shims you need?

Thanks!

 

Also I just found this: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/valves-first-or-your-carb-efforts-will-fail.32118/
Thanks for breaking it to me gently!

 

That's the one!

I lucked out in that my valves were already in spec (I suspect my PO wasn't totally ignorant), but I understand we've got an exchange program going on somewhere in here. Because of that, I'd say feel the clearances first, then see who you can swap with.

 

Yes, check clearances with feeler gauges, note gaps AND note what size shims are where.
(Someone here made a nifty spreadsheet for this).

Now that you know what is good/ bad, you can calculate what shims you need and have the bonus potential of doing the shim dosey- doe.

Keep asking if you need help.

 

JChambs.....do your measurements, then either buy new shims from xj4ever (top right corner of the pages), or let me know what sizes you need and I'll see what's in the shim-swap pool.

Also, I'm going to 'start a conversation' with you....check your inbox.

Dave Fox

 

Welcome, where in Houston did you find that XJ? I troll our local CL from time to time and didn't see that one.

 

Your exhaust is running hot.....all four pipes are blue at the top. (unless it's a thin-wall aftermarket exhaust)......oh, just re-read the top post...yup, 4/1 aftermarket, ok. Still, may have some exhaust valves out of spec......see what turns up.

Nice looking bike. You'll have a wonderful time here with it.

Dave F

 

All thanks for the additional info!

Bikshankhank- it wasn't on CL for too long (probably less than a week). I happened to stumble across it out of luck. I'd been looking for a new bike for about a year since my old one got stolen from my apartment parking garage downtown.

Stumplifter/hogfiddles- Metric feeler gauge is on my "to buy" list. Do you recommend buying the shim tool or going with the zip tie/wire method (I've read people use both eith varied success). Also I'm planning on doing a complete gasket/rubber washer replacement for this first go around. Do you think this is necessary?

 

Yes, replace the gasket and rubber donuts, it is cheap insurance. And personally, I have a bad habit of using "cheap fixes" to get around buying the right tool; buy the right tool. Seriously, it is not that much $$, just get the right tool and do the job the easy way. Not saying the zip-tie thing doesn't work, but Yamaha paid for their engineers to design the tool for valve adjustments and it works, every time.

 

Thanks for the tip! I'll add them to my list.

 

ZIPTIE... I have two of the tools, but in the time it takes you to get one shim checked, I'll check 4

Last carb clinic, we checked and adjusted the shims on 8 bikes in one day------zip ties.

 

Your bike does not use the rubber washers, only the YICS engines bikes use them. You have a flat (paper) gasket and then a pair of half-circle rubber plugs that fit into recesses on the right end of the head....those likely need replacing after you pull the valvecover.

 

Thanks chacal! I am currently going through the bike to look at the conditions of existing brake pads and putting together a parts list using your catalogue, but I'll be getting to you soon with a parts list! Definitely going to need new brake lines (they still have '82 stamped on them!) in addition to the new gasket and rubber plugs.

 

Sweet Seca! I learned this from the forums. Make a notebook to record your shim sizes and clearances with the mileage at the last valve adjustment. so when you do them again you will have an idea of what shims you will need and which ones you can swap.

 

Uh... If you wrote them down and keep them handy, then next shim check you will already KNOW what's in there. Do your clearance check, and check the chart. You'll KNOW what you need....it's a little better than just "have an idea"---- lol

 

That's why I love this forum. Seemingly obvious ideas are pointed out so you don't overlook them. Thanks Dave!

 

Welcome, nice to see another Silver Surfer.

 

All thanks for the warm welcome and great advice!
Sorry if this is the wrong place for this question, but I've been reading up on the tiny pressure relief port that seems to give everyone so much trouble in their master cylinder. My front discs drag slightly (although light enough that I can turn the wheel by hand) but enough that the front wheel won't free spin much like my rear wheel. When I went to look for the tiny hole that I assumed could be slightly plugged, I noticed that my reservoir looked different than the one below referenced below. Also, I noticed when I squeeze my brake lever the small hole makes a small "fountain" of brake fluid. To me this would imply that the hole is not plugged because it is squirting fluid on compression. My thought is that there is either a little gunk in the caliber seals preventing the caliper piston from completely opening or this is just 'normal' brake drag. Any help is greatly appreciated!

The picture I am referencing is here: http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/another-guy-with-locked-front-brakes.12529/

and here is what I see (brake fluid is being replaced once I get new brake lines):

 

Looks ok to me... There is inherent drag with disc brakes. Should not feel stiff to turn but you'll feel a little drag. You'll see the squirt because you have the top open.

How much or how many revolutions can get with a good spin by hand?

 

Good spin by hand I can get about 1 revolution. Also I took the calipers off to check the brake pads and it looks like the PO recently put a new set on. It was tough getting the piston compressed enough to get the calipers back on but I was able to do it by hand without using the c-clamp method. Is my imagination just getting the best of me?

 

Sounds ok, how does the lever feel? I'd want feel a pretty hard lever that stays in place, no give under pressure, and the wheel can't turn by hand for anything. BUT, with good hand pressure on the wheel, the wheel will instantly be able to turn the instant you let go of the brake lever.i like to feel this several sines in succession. Then I'll take it for a spin up the road half a mile and stop via front brake only then center stand it and check again... Ride a mile and check again just to make sure it's not hanging up at all under load-induced heat.

If you could push the piston in by hand, id think it sure isn't binding up----

 

Thanks for the advice! I think all is good. When I drain the system to install the new brake lines I'll probably take the seals off the calipers and clean out any gunk just to be safe (I just purchased some of the Dremel brass brushes from Chacal). However, I've ridden the bike probably ~60 miles with now stopping problems or excessive rotor heat. Only problem is the front brakes tend to be a little squeaky under light load. When I grab a handful it tends to go away. I'll probably just do a light chamfer to the leading edge with a file while I'm at it. I'm curious what I'll find when I get into the rear drum brake though! All those posts and pictures about delaminated shoes did a good job into scaring me into checking it out! Based on the condition of the front brakes and the wear indicator on the rear drum it all looks like it will be ok, but you never know and it sounds like its something you really don't want to gamble with!

 

That's right

 

So Chacal got me my parts so fast I'm actually posting this a bit late! Got everything I need for my valve check and my stainless steel brake upgrade. Gave Chacal my order Sunday night and I had the parts at my door step by Wednesday AND he kept me from ordering parts I didn't need (non-YICS engine). Thanks for the great service! I'll be coming at you for round two soon! Took a look at my drum brakes and they're not too bad but I want to get away from asbestos.

 

So I've had 3 rounds of orders from Chacal. Its been great service and all orders arrived within 2 days! Thanks for all the help!

I've gone through the entire brake system, added SS lines, got the valves in spec, and synced the carbs.

I was adjusting the idle screws today using a colortune and I noticed that cyl #3 has no flame even when adjusting through the entire range of the idle screw. When I rev the throttle I get a blue flame, and when I put the choke on I can get a yellow flame at idle; however the bike immediately dies since the other cylinders are running so rich when warm.

Since I can get flame when I roll onto the throttle when the main jet starts providing fuel, I'm assuming this means the idle circuit is clogged on this carb and I'll need to take the carbs off and give this one a good cleaning. Before I get into that, I wanted to double check with some opinions hears to make sure I'm on the right track.

Thanks!

 

Sounds to me like you know what you're doing.

 

Thanks K-moe!

I was hoping someone might have a solution that doesn't involve taking the carbs back off, but I guess if your going to do something, you might as well do it right!