xj700 clutch

I am trying to find a post on how to change the clutch in my 85 xj700 airhead.
I do have the cd set I bought from here a few years ago, but looking for any posts that I'm sure are here somewhere that would make the job much easier.

Thanks
Ron

 

CLUTCH SYSTEM PARTS:

css2) Although the original factory wet-clutch system is both very reliable, durable, and gives good performance on these bikes, eventually all good things do come to an end, and this is especially true with clutch discs. We offer both OEM, standard, and high-performance aftermarket FRICTION DISCS, the metal DRIVE PLATES, and the COMPRESSION SPRINGS AND BOLTS....all of these items being the basic components of a "clutch service".

Although most clutch rebuilds are thought of as only replacing the friction discs----as they are the primary part that is designed to wear----careful inspection and replacement of the metal drive plates is also recommended "while you're in there". ANY sign of bluing, burning, burring, or warpage (measured with a straight-edge and feeler gauges across their face) of the metal plates indicates a need for their replacement.

If you do choose to keep your original drive plates, always take the time to dress the metal edges of the teeth, to make sure they are free of any nicks or burrs that might catch on the clutch basket "fingers"---this small step insures a smoother, chatter-free operation of the clutch system (in fact, you should perform such tooth de-burring even on brand new plates!). It is also a fine idea to make sure that the clutch "basket fingers"----where the friction disc and the drive plate teeth engage----are also smooth as silk, to allow for quick and easy clutch release and engagement. Such attention to detail goes an ultra-long way to preventing the dreaded "clutch chatter", hand lever "stiffness", or experiencing a complete failure of the clutch to release:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/33243



Finally, you should ALWAYS replace the clutch pressure plate compression springs and their retention bolts. These springs fatigue over time and their replacement is essential to the proper operation of your clutch.


ALL other clutch system parts should be inspected and replaced as necessary......while you are in there replacing the discs, you might as well take the time to do it right and save yourself the mess (and trouble) of having to back in there again!


Here are the main specifications and wear limits for the major components of your clutch system:

XJ550 engines:
Friction plates: 2.8mm (.11") minimum thickness
Drive plates: 0.5mm (.002") maximum warpage
Minimum pressure plate spring length: 40.2mm (550 engines)
Pressure plate spring bolt torque: 5.8 ft-lbs.
Clutch hub bolt torque: 50.5 ft-lbs.
Clutch cover bolts torque: 7.2 ft-lbs.


XJ650 and XJ750 engines:
Friction plates: 2.8mm (.11") minimum thickness
Drive plates: 0.5mm (.002") maximum warpage
Minimum pressure plate spring length: 39.1mm (all 650 except Turbo engines)
Minimum pressure plate spring length: 41.8mm (all 650 Turbo engines)
Minimum pressure plate spring length: 40.2mm (all 750 engines)
Pressure plate spring bolt torque: 7.2 ft-lbs.
Clutch hub bolt torque: 52 ft-lbs.
Clutch cover bolts torque: 7.2 ft-lbs.


XJ700 all models, XJ750-X, and XJ900RK engines:
Friction plates: 2.8mm (.11") minimum thickness
Drive plates: 0.5mm (.002") maximum warpage
Minimum pressure plate spring length: 50.0mm (air-cooled, 700 non-X engines)
Minimum pressure plate spring length: 49.0mm (water-cooled, 700-X and 750-X engines)
Minimum pressure plate spring length: 43.0mm (XJ900RK engines)
Pressure plate spring bolt torque: 5.8 ft-lbs.
Clutch hub bolt torque: 50 ft-lbs.
Clutch cover bolts torque: 8.7 ft-lbs.


XJ1100 engines:
Friction plates: 2.8mm (.11") minimum thickness
Drive plates: 0.1mm (.004") maximum warpage
Minimum pressure plate spring length: 41.8mm
Pressure plate spring bolt torque: 7.2 ft-lbs.
Clutch hub bolt torque: 50 ft-lbs.
Clutch cover bolts torque: 7.2 ft-lbs.



Clutch Pack Assembly Tip:

The "clutch pack" is the accumulation of the inter-leaved metal drive plates with the composite friction discs that you normally associate as being the main components of the "clutch".

To have the smoothest possible performance from your clutch, "stagger" the position of the friction discs as you assemble them into the basket. As you look at a friction disc, you will notice that it is composed of a series of "segmented", individual pads arranged around the entire disc. Note that each disc has a slight "offset" of each pad in relation to a mounting tab. When assembling the clutch pack, make sure that you assemble each friction disc so that its segmented pads do not line up uniformly to the previously-installed friction disc's segmented pads............make sure that each disc has a slightly different offset from the previous one. It's best to study your discs before you start installation, and arrange them in proper "staggered" order before you begin the clutch pack assembly, so you will not need to attend to this task as you are assembling the pack.

NOTE: there is no "inner" or "outward" face or orientation for the friction discs or the metal drive plates.....either face can be oriented "outward" as you assemble the clutch pack.


Although a clutch rebuild is technically not a difficult task, there are series of key steps that must be observed to do it correctly, and for this reason, it is HIGHLY advised that you have a factory or aftermarket service manual at your disposal before attempting this task!

A great visual guide of a clutch rebuild procedure can be seen at:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/29541


Please note that while the above guide is specific for the XJ550 clutches, all XJ-series bikes use the same basic procedures as above, with a few minor differences in drive plate style and design.


Clutch life depends on many variables, primarily your style of clutch operation and "enthusiasm". Typically, clutch discs need replacement every 20-40,000 miles, depending on use and abuse.

And by the way, your clutch cable tension and free-play should be checked every 6 months or so, and adjusted to the specifications for your bike. Failure to do so is a form of "abuse"............

And so is using the wrong type of engine oil. Wet-clutch systems such as these do not respond well, at all, to the use of any type of oil with any "friction-reducing" or "wear additives", etc. Such ingredients make your clutch perform worse, increasing clutch slippage, heat, and wear. Just another form of abuse.......

 

Thanks chacal... you da man
any special tools I will need other than a couple torque wrenches?
I got plenty of tools... just no specialty ones
Finally ready to maybe try loosening a few bolts. Will have to see how my surgery responds. lol
Thanks for all the help with ordering as well.

Ron

 

Well, it helps if you have a special "clutch hub holding tool" if you're going to pull the inner hub off............other than that, just an accurate low-range torque wrench (7.2 ft-lbs) and some fine sandpaper if you need to polish out any ridges on the backset or hub "splines" that the plates ride on.

 

what I do is put the bike in first gear and stand on the rear brake pedal. holds the basket well enough to achieve the proper torque. this is how we used to torque crank pulley bolts on some of the cars I used to work on.

FU

 

Thanks guys.
Do I need to pull the inner hub of to replace the plates, or just to inspect it?

 

Just for inspection or replacement purposes..........

 

Had to have the brother inlaw stop over and loosen the bolts on my RH foot rest for me, then was able to get the cover off.
(I had lower hernia surgery about 3 weeks ago)
I didn't need to replace the main plates as they look good as new yet, but I already have them.
Will put everything back together tomorrow and then get another shopping list together.
Looking at these plates when I pulled them out they all look the same?
Where are the tabs? And which which spot is the special one supposed to go?
xj700 airhead

 

On the XJ700 (and XJ900) models, the secondary friction disc should be the "first" disc loaded onto the clutch; it will be in contact with the clutch hub "captured" drive plate. At some point in the dim-and-distant past, Yamaha decided that the secondary disc was no longer necessary, and started substituting/offering an additional primary disc to replace the discontinued secondary disc. The aftermarket manufacturers still recognize the difference, and produce both the primary discs and unique secondary disc.

 

Thanks - totally awesome.
The help I find here sure make these jobs simpler for someone like me.....
a biker wannabe tryin to learn
Been familiar with bikes most of my life, but ain't done a clutch in over 40 years!

 

I take it that there is no special way these gotta go in? as there are no tabs.
Got the plates all in after an oil bath and putting it back together now.

 

They must be installed with Care and Love, other than that, no special way.

 

ok, just gotta borrow a torque wrench tomorrow and will wrap it up

 

Is that available at xj4ever.com? I think mine is missing that!

 

lol.... I give mine lots of that

 

mine is still in state of depression due to years of neglect by ex-boyfriend. (bikes', not mine!) I mean cmon, two years alone in a barn? She may need more love than I have to give! Chacal, you got any to spare? I know Hogfiddles is practically running an orphanage over there. Mebbe he's just got lots of love to give!
Soon, my sweetie, soon! Sponge baths and (battery)tenderness are in your future!

 

ok, I have one more problem.
where can I find a torque wrench that goes down to 5.8 fp ?
anyone got one for sale? lol
will probably run to sears in wausau tomorrow and see if they have one.

 

is this foot pounds or inch pounds?? I snapped a bolt off

 

7.2 foot pounds (86.4 inch pounds). What bolt did you break? 7.2 foot pounds is just barely beyond finger tight.

 

at that low of foot pounds, you want to convert to inch pounds and use a 20 to 200 inch pound wrench.

FU

 

Thanks, I will remember that next time. I was able to use a pick and got the remainder of the bolt to turn out without drilling it.
I called the yamaha dealer and he said that they usually just snug them up with a 1/4" drive socket & ratchet without using a torque wrench??
I will make a trip to Wausau Monday and see if I can find a smaller torque wrench as I don't like the idea of just "snugging them up"

 

Reason #86 why people don't like nor trust dealerships with their old bikes..............

 

Very good point!