Bench synch? butterfly doesn't seem to be closing

Hey guys.
So did valves, new throttle shaft seals, did bench synch per this thread. http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-bench-synch-your-carbs.6366/, adjusted float level, Pilots out 2.5 turns, carbs on bike.
Fired right up idled 2K, blipped it a couple times, idle hung. So I backed off idle screw, it calmed down, took fuel and idled back down as it should. Next day idling @ 1400, I bottle synched #3, #4. It ran better.
Synched #1, #2 idle jumped up, backed off idle screw. Idle came down to 1500. Went to synch #2, #3 and the engine went to 4K and stayed there. Tried turning the synch screw as bottle was being sucked dry quickly. The synch screw bottomed out before I could get it to flow the other way. I tried to adjust the idle screw but it is no longer touching the linkage.

So obviously I have an air leak. As it runs at 4K you can hear one cylinder pop when it leans out. I've been over the boots couple times. Propane test turns up nothing. I figure its in the butterflys not sealing, thus the bench synch question. From the link above MiCarl wrote, "I wonder also if it's ever possible when bottoming all the sync screws as you describe in step 1 to get another butterfly holding #3 open too far." Any thoughts, could this happen?
If I have installed the butterflys wrong, how would I go about making sure they are seated properly. I loosened the butterfly screws a little, open and shut them a couple times, Loctite and tightened them up. I used this thread to put the carbs back together. http://www.xj4ever.com/hitachi throttle shaft seals.pdf

Thanks for any replys.

 

it's very easy to have #3 held open by another butterfly.
screw the idle till it touches and a bit more. unplug the TCI so it won't start. put a charger on it and using only the starter get a rough sync. re-plug the TCI, now it should start and the idle knob should slow it down. now do the regular sync thing.
after each set (1/2) (3/4) (2/3) the idle knob should control the speed
don't kill your starter 10 second cranks only

 

Update: found the manifold end of the petcock vacume hose (on #3) was cracked. This solved the hanging idle.
Idles at 1100 nice with a little lope, sounds crazy WOT.
Thanks Polock I did what you said might have given me more room to turn down idle.

I went throught and resynch. 3, 4 and 1, 2 are dead on no fluctuation at all. 2, 3 I still bottom out before they are equal.
When I did the bench synch I went 4, 1, 2. I noticed just now the link above says 4, 2, 1. Could this be my issue?
Looks like they're coming back off if no one has a thought.

 

turn the idle up with the knob a bit, then go back to that 2/3 screw. you should be able to get it closer. repeat as necessary

 

So, I pulled the carbs. Turned the idle screw out 3 turns. 1 & 4 sync screw 1 turn out, 2 sync screw, 3 turns out. Trying to give myself some room. Bench sync in the right order this time 4,2,1. Carbs 3 & 4 sync, 1 & 2 sync.
2 & 3 I'm still bottoming out but the bottle is emptying at a very slow rate. Before it emptied quickly. I then backed off the idle screw until it no longeer touched the linkage. The bike idles at 2 grand, running lean. Bottle still drains.

Pulled the carbs again. I reseated all the butterflys, carbs work as they should, 2 brings 1 along, snap shut. I put the throttle shaft seals in one carb at a time so there's no way of any mix up between carbs. You really can't put the rack back together wrong, pretty much everything only fits one way.

Sync actually looked good across the board. So I turned the idle screw all the way open. Sync screws all the way down, did bench sync. Butterflys look dead on. With the idle screw not touching I can still see a tiny bit of the whole the butterfly closes off in the throat of #3.
I can adjust all the others to cover the whole completely. Is this normal? What could be holding it open?
If I adjust #4 all the way open it will hold #3 but I played with all different settings on all sync screws and when set normally nothing is holding 3.
I'm so close here I can taste it.
Here's a pic of my rack, I cant find a problem.

 

never ever do this, the idle screw must always touch the linkage!

see above.

#3 is being held open by at least one of the other three, this is bad. #3 must always be controlled by the idle screw, nothing can close carb 3 butterfly but the idle screw.....ever.
i can't see anything wrong in the pictures except the bike will never run with the butterflies closed that far.
when you get it on the bike to do a running sync, a half turn of the screws is a lot. Notice how far your turning them to change the bench sync.
turn the idle knob till it touches then 1.5 more turns, now make the other three look like that