Tough clutch

Hey guys. Wanted to thank everyone for all the great tips and tricks for these bikes. Finally got back to working on my 750 Seca. Got it running after carb tear down, and am waiting on a carbtune to synch and the color tune. My problem is with my clutch. After replacing all friction plates and springs and re-assembly, my clutch lever is very, very hard to pull. To the point where it will be difficult to ride. Thought I would ask opinions from experienced people before I tear it down again. Thanks again for all the advice and for having a great forum.

 

Did you soak the friction plates in fresh oil prior to assembling? Are you certain the plates are correctly staggered? Did you align the dot on the clutch center and the dot on the pressure plate? Did you torque the spring bolts to spec? Does the throw out arm have complete throw out?

Gary H.

 

Yes to fresh oil, and the alignment dots. My plates don't have alignment tabs, so I don't think it's applicable to the 750 Seca. Was going to check cable this week to see if it's seized before tear down again. Followed Fitz's clutch rebuild thread.

 

Staggered plates means every other plate. Make certain there isn't two plain plates or two friction plates next to each other and that they are installed correctly from the boss plate out. I don't trust 30yr old cables, but if you're going to use them you can remove the cable, use carb cleaner or brake cleaner and compressed air to clean it then use a coat hanger to hang a old funnel, attach the cable, and spray a bit of chain/cable lube (not WD40) in there. It should work it's way down the cable fairly quick. The cable should move freely. Fwiw...there's also a tool for lubing cables.

Gary H.

 

Yeah. Double checked my plates and preassembled before install. Checked again after install before torqing pressure plate down. Cable was working before clutch rebuild.

 

Clutch lever dots aligned correctly? Rotate CW by hand and dots should align.

 

Just chiming in as I've noticed the same thing during a long ride. Initially it's not hard to pull the lever, but after about two hours of shifting my hand wants to give out from having such a heavy draw. The shifting is fine, mind you. I just assumed I'd been out of the gym for too long and my hand was getting weak.

 

+1. Key note: The shaft should be rotated prior to installing the arm and e-clip.

Gary H

 

Thanks for the info. Wil check it out. Awesome pics Rooster.

 

What clutch kit did you get? You may have gotten one with heavy springs. Our clutches have a reactively heavy pull anyway (in comparison to most newer machines).

 

I did a quick check on my 33 year old stock clutch (high tech fish scale) and it takes about 12 to 15 lbs of force at the end of the lever to pull in, and only a few pounds to hold it in.

Average male grip strength is about 90 lbs. for the non dominant hand, so even with just a couple of fingers it should feel quite easy.

 

I'll check tonight with my luggage scale, but I am left-handed. This doesn't bode well for either me or my clutch springs.

K-moe, I bought all my clutch stuff from from Len.

 

Did you lube your cable? I just replaced the cable on my Kaw and lubed it with Redline for a couple days before installing. Was surprised how much smoother it operates.

 

I haven't. I'll have to give that a try.

 

I was asking Myron.

 

Right. Um. I was just giving him an example of a good answer to follow suit with. Wink.

 

Grip strength is the weakest at the pinky. I'd try remeasuring about 2" from the pivot and average the two. I think your methodology allows for more leverage than our hands can actually take advantage of. (also, clutch springs will weaken over time).

If Myron bought a clutch with stiffer clutch springs (he doesn't say if he reused the old springs or not) then the clutch pull would be quite a bit higer.

 

The friction plates might be thicker too depending on which kit he bought.

Gary H.

 

Might be time for one of these, walk around all day and your clutch will feel like nothing in no time!

 

K-moe, I opted for the upgrade clutch kit from Len with new springs. I ended up putting new bolts too after breaking one while torquing.I expected it to be somewhat stronger pull, but I think I mis-installed something as it feels much too hard to pull. Haven't got back to it yet, though. Been on afternoon shift all week and am ill today.

 

A worn (notchy) clutch basket might be causing the plates to hang up. It's easy to overlook that during clutch replacement.

 

Seems that the clutch cable is seizing up. Removed it, lubed it and re-installed it. Will order new one tomorrow. Rooster, I cannot see alignment dot on lever arm. P.O. had it all beat to crap. Looking at your picture it seems almost straight back from the alignment notch on the case. If I position mine there, i cannot for the life of me connect my cable. The adjusters at the bottom end of cable wont reach the holder. I'm wondering if P.O. put in wrong cable. Will find out when new cable comes in. Clutch operates now but still a little stiff. I think K-moe got it right about the heavier springs. Thanks again everyone for the info.

 

Received new cable. Definitely the wrong cable installed by the P.O. New cable was a full 2-2 1/2" longer than old cable. Now I can position clutch arm mechanism to proper position as per rooster's picture. And now clutch operates as I would expect it to. Thanks guys for all the tips.
Myron.