Morgan carbtune hookup

Hi guys. Am attempting to sync my carbs with the carbtune pro from Morgan. Morgan has included 6mm adapters for my bike, but my hayne's manual says to remove the vacuum caps from the carbs and connect my hoses there. Any thoughts from anyone who's done it.

 

You will want to connect the hoses to the vacuum caps on the carb to engine boots i believe. Ive never used one but ive seen a video where the adapters are used to screw into a vacuum port on the carb body (an 80's honda i think it was on) not the vacuum ports on the boots. I dont think our carbs have such a vacuum port on the carb body itself.

 

4 hoses and 4 vacuum ports, hook them up and have at it. you're going to need some kind of gas tank though.
check this out
http://www.zrxoa.org/forums/showthread.php?304611-Carb-Sync-Tool-review-Morgan-Carbtune-Pro

 

Thanks. Just want to make sure that's where I'm supposed to hook it up. Sounds right and looks right. Just wondering about the adapters.

 

Polock, I got a tank off my snowblower with a fuel valve. Was gonna use it, but my battery is dead. Won't charge, so I guess a new battery is coming.

 

I made a makeshift gas tank out of a powerade bottle with a hole drilled into it
and then I put my gas line in and sealed it with rvt
let it sit for a few days.. works and is cheap
the morgantune is amazing

 

If your quick you can sync with just the gas in the carb bowls no need for a auxiliary gas tank.

 

Yep, but only if you warm the bike up before pulling the fuel tank off.

 

The adapters slow the vacuum pull. Other bikes, like Honda, have a place to screw the adapters...Xj's don't. I modified a set of dial gauges and use this...



Gary H.

 

Doesn't the Morgan Carbtune come with restrictors that get slid into the tubes? AFIK the adapters are just for hooking the tubes up to those carbs that have threaded vacuum balancing ports.

 

You are correct K-moe about the restrictions and the adapters. I was just cofused because someone explained that I would have to remove some screws and use the adaters for the hookups. Now I know about the inlets on the intakes.

 

I have the carbtune and love it. I got a gas tank off a junk lawnmower and put a brass/ clear plastic filter in the fuel line just to be safe. When carbtuning, I put the can on my seat and bungee cord it in place and it works great that way.

You have to use the restrictors or you'll get large pulses with each suction, the restrictors make the surge minimal so the reading is smooth. Doesn't matter what the numbers are or how high the rods go, it's all relative & you just want enough height to make a good balance on all four cylinders. Mine read at maybe 1.5" - 2" high.

 

Thanks. Trying it now. Hooked up fuel tank and turned on tap. Getting fuel leaking out of airbox overflow tube. Did I do something wrong with my carbs? Stuck floats perhaps. Had bike running prior to this.

 

Did you take the carbs to The Church of Clean, or did you just leave the carbs alone?

Yes you probably have a stuck float, or a float needle that isn't seating, or a faulty float needle seat gasket, or.....

 

Yeah. Went to the church of clean. Was very particular about it. Looks like I'm going back to church. Lol.

 

Did you put an inline fuel flter on? You might just have crud from the tank stuck between a needle and seat. A rap on the bowls with a screwdriver handle might do the trick if the float is just hung up. Did you pay attention to the down-stop tabs on the floats?

 

I haven't put a filter on yet. Was on my list of to do things. Trying to get it running first. Will find out later this weekend what's up. Got new battery and clutch cable. Hopefully nothing too involved. Will post once I know. Certainly will try the screwdriver handle. Was my first carb rebuild. Honestly do not remember about the down stop tabs.

 

Well, tapping on the bowls stopped the leak. Thanks K-moe. Now, however, I can only get bike to fire intermittently. Will not stay running. Killed battery trying, so now back on charge. Will try again tomorrow.

 

You probably have crud from the gas tank that has been sucked into the carb and blocked the idle jet. Pull the carbs, drop the bowls, and give them a good flushing out. Then get yourself a sintered bronze fuel filter to put inline before the fuel rail inlet so that doesn't happen to you again.

 

Will do. Thanks.

 

This is important too, as the float needle valve can hang up if they are pulled too far down by an empty bowl. Unfortunately, I have never seen a spec or a post on suggesting the proper adjustment of the down stop. Some of the members also suggest the closed loop as compared to the open loop wire on the float needle valve.

 

Hopefully will have time to open it up today and find out. Would love to go for a ride sometime this summer. Winter comes too soon in my part of the great white north. Lol.

 

There is a bend in the down stop. The adjustment is when the face of the bent flange is flat against the float tower. Yamaha installed closed clips (they are better). The open clips tend to spin and get hung on the front of the tang. If using open clips it is suggested that turning the open side of the clip toward the air box will help minimize the hanging.

Gary H.

 

Some of the open clips are long enough that a slight bend can be put into the open end so they mimic the action of the closed clips.

 

Went back to visit church of clean. Had to wait for new carb bowl gaskets. All clean and back together. Bike runs now and idles. Went for a quick run. All seems good. Man this thing can move. Tomorrow, carb sync and colortune.