Stripped Oil filter threads inside engine

Hi, guy's

I made a big mistake trying to use a oil filter bolt that had some defects in the threads and stripped the threads on the inside. I'm pretty worried about what to do, and how big of an issue this is. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

 

Thinking about trying this, I don't have access to any machining equipment or welders.
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Threa...2771287&sr=8-4&keywords=loctite+thread+repair

 

Also bought a new oil filter bypass

 

The thread repair epoxy you linked will work, but I think that you can chase the threads to save them. The damage does not look that bad in the photo. Be sure to use a thread reformer or a chase, not a tap. The next option is to use a Helicoil insert, which is a fairly easy DYI repair method.

 

Thanks K-moe, I was looking into the Helicoil inserts. I'll try reforming it, its to the point where it wants to thread but it won't thread enough to securely hold it. Do you know by chance what size the bolt is and or any other information to reform it. Possibly a link to a reforming kit. I've never had to any repairs to threads and would rather reform then use epoxy.

 

if you were to get one of chacals spin-on oil filter adapters, you would put a pipe in there once and never have to take it out. so it would probably last forever

 

I saw that and was interested as well, You mean thread,epoxy it in and then just leave it there. How do I get one?

 

click on the xj4ever banner at the top right of every page. Or, find any post by Chacal, click on his name, then click on 'start a conversation', then type your message when the box comes up.

Or..........you can go out onto the xjbikes front porch and just start calling, "Chacal.....Chaaaacaaal------Here, Chacal Chacal Chacal"

dave f

 

Dave, You're freakin crazy! Cats and Chacals do not come when called! Also, which way to the front porch?

 

Hi guys,
Im gonna try cleaning up the threads first. I know the bolt is 20mm but and clue on pitch or any other info so I can choose a tap. Also any fingers pointed at a tap to fix the threads up would be greatly appreciated

 

20mm thread reform/chaser*

 

Thread size is M20 1.5. You will probably have to get it as part of a kit, so ask your local auto parts store if they have a set on their rental/loan program.

 

http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...Taps?navid=12106038#navid=12106038+4287992404

maybe think about plan B

 

Holy expensive tooling batman!

 

A set of mechanic grade reforming chases runs less than $100. What Plolock linked are thread forming taps (not thread reformers or chases which are similar, but are not capable of making new threads) which are intended for high volume manufacturing operations.

 

if a guy was to put the pipe in a vise horizontally, then with a new hacksaw blade with very fine teeth held almost horizontally, cut a slot through the first 5 or 6 threads, being careful not to slip and going slow to minimise burrs. Then clean the cut up with a triangle file in the threads and finally carefully file the very tops of the first 3 threads of the pipe. now you have a thread chaser that will clean out the problem.
then buy a new pipe or a spin-on adaptor
this always worked before i had a lathe handy

 

k-moe, you have a link to something like that? they could be handy

 

Cutting a pipe works just fine too, so long as he's real careful to dull the leading edge of the cut.

Here's an example of the sort of kit I was talking about: http://www.amazon.com/FJC-2755-Metric-Thread-Chaser/dp/B000OCKGYO Notice the chamfer on the thread ends. That is the critical bit (hard to see in that pic) that rolls the metal back into place instead of chipping it off.
There are other kits with longer chases, but I can't find any online that have a 20mm 1.5 in the kit ( I didn't look very hard either). I just borrow a chase from my local NAPA when I need it (which isn't very often).

 

I appreciate all the help K-moe. I think I'm gonna give Chacals adapter. I have about a third of the thread in the back undamaged and I believe I can fit a sufficient high temp epoxy to apply on the parts with damaged thread as well as loctite on the threaded part. you can see in my picture the undamaged threads in the back.

 

i forgot about a dremel tool to cut that slot in the threads, it might make a cleaner cut with less burrs, basicly because me and dremel tools don't get along too well
k-moe, i'll keep those in mind

 

Actually Chacal made me aware of the possibilities of Oil leaking out and going for a slide. Pretty scary. Im gonna go with the HELICOIL. Im having issues finding a Helicoil kit that is M20X1.5. Online and at stores, I went to a couple auto stores today and they all looked at me like I was crazy. Any websites with good kits, Helicoils website is confusing as well

 

Also K moe, what automotive store can you rent that at, I live in the suburbs of Chicago and its hard to find an automotive store with any machining stuff

 

http://www.autofast.co.za/shop/helicoil-m20-x-1-5-x-1-5d/
This is all I could find, but I would like to get a whole kit

 

http://www.threadtoolsupply.com/m20x25-helical-insert-repair-kit.html

Hows this look?

 

http://www.threadtoolsupply.com/M20x25-professional-helical-insert-repair-kit.html

Or?

 

those are M20 X 2.5......you need 1.5

 

My Bad

http://www.threadtoolsupply.com/M20x15-professional-helical-insert-repair-kit.html

 

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11133735

sorry about all the links, your guys suggestions/opinions mean a lot to me

 

Chief, i don't want to rain on your parade but that sounds damm near impossible. think about where you'll be working, it's going to take all a 3/8 drill can do, 1/2 drill is bigger and harder to work with, your drilling a 13/16 hole.....straight.....granted it's only
making a existing hole bigger but that means it's going to want to grab and spin your drill...ouch. you need a silver and demming drill bit( reduced shank) that's been touched up to have 0 rake to take care of the grab.
with the motor on the bench you have a fighting chance

 

yea, I'm pretty bummed about it. Your probably right though, pissed at myself for making such a simple thing a big issue, expensive lessons. I've never looked into it but would it be possible just to replace that part of the engine if I could find a donor? What would you do if you were in this situation?

 

I'm thinking I'm pretty screwed, I know the necessary ways to fix this but really lack the equipment or money to go at this. Best idea right now is going with Chacals conversion, using the 1/3 of threads that are unharmed in the back and applying high grade metal to metal epoxy on the whole bolt. I feel like this would secure it well, I have worked a lot with various epoxies and trust their strength. I am discouraged by this idea though because of the idea of the filter coming undone and laying down oil in front of my rear tire. As for the drilling and tapping idea. Im not so confident.

 

I would not mix two types of epoxy. Just use the Loctite thread repair. It is a 2 part epoxy and capable of holding 128 LB Ft of torque. If you are concerned about the 300ºF temperature limit (your oil should never get that hot, but things do happen) then you can use Loctite 271. It appears that you have enough thread to hold the low torque required for the spin on adapter, and it will fill the gaps in the damaged threads.

 

And use anti-seize on the oil filter can threads. And don't gorilla-torque the can to the stud, use the "hand-tight + barely another 1/4-turn" technique.

And pray a lot.

I understand why, but I still don't really recommend what you're planning to do though.........for your own safety.

 

auto zone its a free rental just the deposit untill you return it
same with
O'Reilly Auto Parts
or VIP
autozone
go to autoparts store and ask who loans outtools

 

Auto zone has the thread reforming kit, I'm gonna pick it up and give it a try. Do these add to the flank of the thread or are they more meant to clean up?

 

your going to need a torque wrench

 

Gonna borrow one from my neighbor, would buy one but my other XJ ( 1993 jeep cherokee ) just went to the shop with clutch issues, wallet is gonna be taking a large hit. Any ideas for testing the strength of the threads on the new filter?

 

when you use the torque wrench to tighten the pipe from the kit, you'll know right then. It either strips or holds forever

 

My local NAPA has an on site machine shop. Yours may or may not.

 

My local NAPA doesn't have a machine shop. They do have a paint shop which comes handy when I need an exact color match

 

Update: Ordered and received Len's oil filter adapter. The threaded stud had no issue threading into the damaged threads and didn't require any epoxy. The bolt tightened to 20 ft/lbs without any slipping and is very secure in the oil port. Let the bike warm up a while and still held good. Been riding for a couple of days now and checking the oil filter every time I get off and all is still tight. Very much relieved that this worked.

 

Congrats! Glad you dodged that bullet.

 

I just found your thread and I am going thru the same thing. I am purchasing a spin on adaptor and crossing my fingers that I will have the same luck as you and can get it to thread in. If not I'll try the chaser before I re-tap.